Rembrant Posted February 15, 2021 Author Share Posted February 15, 2021 Hopefully the new hangers have a nice big drain hole in them. Jim, interestingly the new hangers DO have drain holes, about 3/8" in size. Oddly, the ones I installed on my '84 a couple years ago do not have the drain holes, and they are the same Dorman hangers. Looks like they added the hole recently?...I don't know. Today was frame repair day (I've had a couple of these with this project, considering I've rebuild 2 crossmembers and stiffened up a couple spots on the frame previously). The one bad spot in the rear section of the frame was around the right rear leaf spring hanger. I didn't take as many pictures as I normally would have as I was in a bit of a rush today, but I cut two big chunks of frame out and welded in fresh 1/8" plate, outlines below: I welded them on both sides and ground them smooth so that they're not visible, at least from the outside. I also added some extra plates on the inside for extra strength...probably not necessary, but I did it anyway. I'm going to weld in some 1" wide 1/8" flat bar along in the inside of the bottom flange to strengthen it up as well. In the end the right hand leaf pack is all installed (temporarily as I still need to get the front bushings sorted out). I have a few more little things to weld in, but the hard work is all done now. I should have a whole bunch of easy stuff over the next few weeks...installing new shocks, gas tank and fuel line, brake lines, etc. Once it is all soaked with Fluid Film black it'll look great. Oh well, life in the land of rust. This frame was not perfect, but it was way better than the one that was in this truck. It is 15 years newer after all lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted February 15, 2021 Share Posted February 15, 2021 Today was frame repair day (I've had a couple of these with this project, considering I've rebuild 2 crossmembers and stiffened up a couple spots on the frame previously). The one bad spot in the rear section of the frame was around the right rear leaf spring hanger. I didn't take as many pictures as I normally would have as I was in a bit of a rush today, but I cut two big chunks of frame out and welded in fresh 1/8" plate, outlines below: I welded them on both sides and ground them smooth so that they're not visible, at least from the outside. I also added some extra plates on the inside for extra strength...probably not necessary, but I did it anyway. I'm going to weld in some 1" wide 1/8" flat bar along in the inside of the bottom flange to strengthen it up as well. In the end the right hand leaf pack is all installed (temporarily as I still need to get the front bushings sorted out). I have a few more little things to weld in, but the hard work is all done now. I should have a whole bunch of easy stuff over the next few weeks...installing new shocks, gas tank and fuel line, brake lines, etc. Once it is all soaked with Fluid Film black it'll look great. Oh well, life in the land of rust. This frame was not perfect, but it was way better than the one that was in this truck. It is 15 years newer after all lol. Nice work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salans7 Posted February 15, 2021 Share Posted February 15, 2021 Nice work! Glad to see most of the hard work is done. The frame on Florida Man's truck had some spots that were thin and pitted, possibly from the sand and mud and other junk sitting on the rails and trapping moisture. It was a Florida truck, so it was strange to see. But it wasn't near as bad as that frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted February 15, 2021 Author Share Posted February 15, 2021 Glad to see most of the hard work is done. The frame on Florida Man's truck had some spots that were thin and pitted, possibly from the sand and mud and other junk sitting on the rails and trapping moisture. It was a Florida truck, so it was strange to see. But it wasn't near as bad as that frame. They all get pitted and rusted here, I'm used to it. This started out as a budget build, so I couldn't be too fussy when frame shopping, especially when they're all rusted out here. This one had everything I wanted with the 5spd and 3.55 diffs, swaybars, etc..., but the downside is that it was rusty. Welding them up is pretty common here, but the original frame that was in this truck was too far gone to repair. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salans7 Posted February 15, 2021 Share Posted February 15, 2021 They all get pitted and rusted here, I'm used to it. This started out as a budget build, so I couldn't be too fussy when frame shopping, especially when they're all rusted out here. This one had everything I wanted with the 5spd and 3.55 diffs, swaybars, etc..., but the downside is that it was rusty. Welding them up is pretty common here, but the original frame that was in this truck was too far gone to repair. Part of the reason I parted ways with my F150 was because of the rust in the A-Pillars and the bottom of the firewall. You guys in the salty areas probably dream of minor issues like that. I guess I'm spoiled rotten. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted February 16, 2021 Author Share Posted February 16, 2021 http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n88524/IMG_3804.jpg Found this with a little digging on Google... http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n88524/bushings.jpg I've done a lot of digging on these bushings and the correct ones that I need are no longer available from Ford, and the aftermarket replacement (part # RB229) is also impossible to find in Canada. RB229 is available in the US, but at $32 each plus $50 shipping they'd end up costing me about $175 CDN shipped, and I don't really want to pay that for a couple of $10 bushings if I don't have to. The next closest thing I can find is the RB219, which is available locally (by order at least). It is 1 13/16 OD compared to the RB229's 1 25/32 OD (or 1.785" to 1.813"). So 0.028" larger. What do you guys think? That should press in there, shouldn't it? If I cleaned the eye out with a flapper wheel to make sure it's clean and smooth, and hit it with the press I'd like to think that the spring would open up by another 28 thou? Any thoughts, good or bad? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 16, 2021 Share Posted February 16, 2021 http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n88524/IMG_3804.jpg Found this with a little digging on Google... http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n88524/bushings.jpg I've done a lot of digging on these bushings and the correct ones that I need are no longer available from Ford, and the aftermarket replacement (part # RB229) is also impossible to find in Canada. RB229 is available in the US, but at $32 each plus $50 shipping they'd end up costing me about $175 CDN shipped, and I don't really want to pay that for a couple of $10 bushings if I don't have to. The next closest thing I can find is the RB219, which is available locally (by order at least). It is 1 13/16 OD compared to the RB229's 1 25/32 OD (or 1.785" to 1.813"). So 0.028" larger. What do you guys think? That should press in there, shouldn't it? If I cleaned the eye out with a flapper wheel to make sure it's clean and smooth, and hit it with the press I'd like to think that the spring would open up by another 28 thou? Any thoughts, good or bad? Yes. If you clean up the spring with the flapper wheel you'll help it slide in, and you may even take a bit of metal off the spring. And the spring should open up a bit. So, with lube, I think it will go since you have a press. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 16, 2021 Share Posted February 16, 2021 http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n88524/IMG_3804.jpg Found this with a little digging on Google... http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n88524/bushings.jpg I've done a lot of digging on these bushings and the correct ones that I need are no longer available from Ford, and the aftermarket replacement (part # RB229) is also impossible to find in Canada. RB229 is available in the US, but at $32 each plus $50 shipping they'd end up costing me about $175 CDN shipped, and I don't really want to pay that for a couple of $10 bushings if I don't have to. The next closest thing I can find is the RB219, which is available locally (by order at least). It is 1 13/16 OD compared to the RB229's 1 25/32 OD (or 1.785" to 1.813"). So 0.028" larger. What do you guys think? That should press in there, shouldn't it? If I cleaned the eye out with a flapper wheel to make sure it's clean and smooth, and hit it with the press I'd like to think that the spring would open up by another 28 thou? Any thoughts, good or bad? Tricky. I'd be tempted to slit the sleeve so it could compress that 3/4mm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted February 17, 2021 Author Share Posted February 17, 2021 Tricky. I'd be tempted to slit the sleeve so it could compress that 3/4mm Jim, That's not a bad idea actually. I assume what will happen though is that the outer shell of the larger bushing will deform into the open area at the end of the eye curl. I went through this with my '84...bit of a long story, but it was another oddball that a regular bushing wouldn't fit, and that one I took to a leaf spring shop. When they pressed the bushings into those springs, the bushing shell distorted a bit and pushed out into the part that isn't in the circle (The good thing is that it eliminated the possibility of the bushings ever being able to rotate). I thought what they did was cut an 1/8" off the end of the curl and tightened up the hole a little bit, but they may have simply pressed in slightly larger bushings, I'm not really sure. I called three spring shops yesterday, and this RB229 bushing (1.785" OD) is odd enough that none of them have ever stocked or sold a single one, and none of their suppliers had them in-stock in Canada either. The guy at one shop was clever enough to mention that the RB219 bushing (1.813" OD) was readily available (fits a 90's GM 3500, I guess) and he said that is what they would install if I brought the springs to them (which I wasn't doing since they are 3 hrs away). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 Tricky. I'd be tempted to slit the sleeve so it could compress that 3/4mm Jim, That's not a bad idea actually. I assume what will happen though is that the outer shell of the larger bushing will deform into the open area at the end of the eye curl. I went through this with my '84...bit of a long story, but it was another oddball that a regular bushing wouldn't fit, and that one I took to a leaf spring shop. When they pressed the bushings into those springs, the bushing shell distorted a bit and pushed out into the part that isn't in the circle (The good thing is that it eliminated the possibility of the bushings ever being able to rotate). I thought what they did was cut an 1/8" off the end of the curl and tightened up the hole a little bit, but they may have simply pressed in slightly larger bushings, I'm not really sure. I called three spring shops yesterday, and this RB229 bushing (1.785" OD) is odd enough that none of them have ever stocked or sold a single one, and none of their suppliers had them in-stock in Canada either. The guy at one shop was clever enough to mention that the RB219 bushing (1.813" OD) was readily available (fits a 90's GM 3500, I guess) and he said that is what they would install if I brought the springs to them (which I wasn't doing since they are 3 hrs away). Time to think out side the box more I was going to say split the shell like Jim did. Have you looked into poly bushings and hope they don't use the outer shell? Bar stock and a way to turn them to size? It can be aluminum easier to work with and make solid bushings. I don't think you would feel the difference between solid & rubber. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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