ArdWrknTrk Posted July 29, 2020 Share Posted July 29, 2020 Cory, That alternator isn't 2G (with a charge lug and a shield behind the pulley) Maybe Leece-Neville? I don't know...it's quite a bit different from the old 40amp 1G that is still in my '84, and that's about all I know. I was just curious what it was, and if it could help me ID the year of the engine in any way...although it doesn't matter much really. The engine appears to be an '84-'86, with it more likely being an '85 or '86. Det cord will remove any and all frame members cleanly in a microsecond. I don't know how the salvage yard might feel about that, but most of the yards I've been to probably wouldn't mind, given the way they XXXX around with airbag initiators. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted July 29, 2020 Author Share Posted July 29, 2020 I hate doing rivets on my nice flat concrete pad, you'll hate them even more in the gravel at the junkyard. I've seen plenty of junkyards with the trucks that are missing the back half of the frame. Maybe ask them for a price and whether they will cut or allow you to cut and take a back half home. Shaun, as we say around here..."Don't even talk!"...lol. I drilled out 23 frame rivets in my '84 Flareside, and that was indoors on a concrete floor with a stool to sit on, and even that was UNfun. On top of that is the heat...while probably cool by your standards, it's 85 during the day here now, and 100 with the humidex. I really don't want to do that laying on my back in the gravel with the hot metal filings/shavings falling on me...lol. You are spoilt for choice, as they say in the UK. Lots of options, we'd say. But, is it worth it to resurrect the 1980 frame? How is the '86 frame? I ask because drilling all of those rivets is NOT easy. My approach finally came to an air chisel to take the head off and then drilling what was left to take the pressure off. Then you can drive them out. But it is SLOW. Gary and Shaun...thank you for making me see something that I was overlooking... I had disregarded the frame in that 1986 Bullnose at the junkyard as it is one of those uncommon Bullnoses that one never sees around here...it's a Supercab with the short 6 1/2 ft bed. My thoughts on shortening a frame were always regarding the standard 133" regular cab frame which would have to be cut aft of the rear cab mount. That's easy. But a Supercab with a short box?...I guess it would have to be shortened forward of the rear cab mounts crossmember? I never really thought about that one. Are the frame rails even parallel under the cab? They DO start to narrow further forward don't they?... Hmmm.... But...even the rear section of that frame might be a good candidate, thanks for mentioning that Shaun. I too have seen them chopped off behind the cab like you mention. There is the 1996 F150 there with what looks to me to clearly have a southern frame under it, but it has already been shortened...and they did a very nice job of it, but I don't want to shorten a frame that's already been shortened...lol, and of course it also has the front crumple zones, so while it's basically very solid, it's not a good candidate for me. The crossmembers however are very nice, if I can get them out of it... Jim, On the Det Cord... I'm not familiar with using it...but agree it would make quick work of it...lol. I'm basically limited to hand tools and a cordless drill, a cordless recip saw, and a cordless 1/2" impact gun. They will lift the body off a truck for me, but I have to cut it loose. I may have another look at the '86 and the '96. The bed bolts and cab bolts can easily be deal breakers. There is a relatively good chance that the cab bolts would spin out...but if they don't...they're miserable to try and cut with a recip saw...BTDT. Bed bolts almost have to be drilled out... Anyway, you guys have given me lots to think about....thanks for that... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 29, 2020 Share Posted July 29, 2020 I hate doing rivets on my nice flat concrete pad, you'll hate them even more in the gravel at the junkyard. I've seen plenty of junkyards with the trucks that are missing the back half of the frame. Maybe ask them for a price and whether they will cut or allow you to cut and take a back half home. Shaun, as we say around here..."Don't even talk!"...lol. I drilled out 23 frame rivets in my '84 Flareside, and that was indoors on a concrete floor with a stool to sit on, and even that was UNfun. On top of that is the heat...while probably cool by your standards, it's 85 during the day here now, and 100 with the humidex. I really don't want to do that laying on my back in the gravel with the hot metal filings/shavings falling on me...lol. You are spoilt for choice, as they say in the UK. Lots of options, we'd say. But, is it worth it to resurrect the 1980 frame? How is the '86 frame? I ask because drilling all of those rivets is NOT easy. My approach finally came to an air chisel to take the head off and then drilling what was left to take the pressure off. Then you can drive them out. But it is SLOW. Gary and Shaun...thank you for making me see something that I was overlooking... I had disregarded the frame in that 1986 Bullnose at the junkyard as it is one of those uncommon Bullnoses that one never sees around here...it's a Supercab with the short 6 1/2 ft bed. My thoughts on shortening a frame were always regarding the standard 133" regular cab frame which would have to be cut aft of the rear cab mount. That's easy. But a Supercab with a short box?...I guess it would have to be shortened forward of the rear cab mounts crossmember? I never really thought about that one. Are the frame rails even parallel under the cab? They DO start to narrow further forward don't they?... Hmmm.... But...even the rear section of that frame might be a good candidate, thanks for mentioning that Shaun. I too have seen them chopped off behind the cab like you mention. There is the 1996 F150 there with what looks to me to clearly have a southern frame under it, but it has already been shortened...and they did a very nice job of it, but I don't want to shorten a frame that's already been shortened...lol, and of course it also has the front crumple zones, so while it's basically very solid, it's not a good candidate for me. The crossmembers however are very nice, if I can get them out of it... Jim, On the Det Cord... I'm not familiar with using it...but agree it would make quick work of it...lol. I'm basically limited to hand tools and a cordless drill, a cordless recip saw, and a cordless 1/2" impact gun. They will lift the body off a truck for me, but I have to cut it loose. I may have another look at the '86 and the '96. The bed bolts and cab bolts can easily be deal breakers. There is a relatively good chance that the cab bolts would spin out...but if they don't...they're miserable to try and cut with a recip saw...BTDT. Bed bolts almost have to be drilled out... Anyway, you guys have given me lots to think about....thanks for that... Do you have a cordless angle grinder? It's really amazing how good that thing is for cutting bolts. (If you can get at them, and have enough battery) .045 discs, you can never have too many... Bring gloves and a face shield. Cheap Princess Auto or Canoodian Tyre stuff is fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted July 29, 2020 Author Share Posted July 29, 2020 Do you have a cordless angle grinder? They are not allowed. No grinders, no torches, and no jacks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 29, 2020 Share Posted July 29, 2020 Do you have a cordless angle grinder? They are not allowed. No grinders, no torches, and no jacks. So you can use a sawzall but not a grinder???? Carbide sawzall blades are $13 here, but probably worth their weight in gold for your purposes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted July 29, 2020 Author Share Posted July 29, 2020 So you can use a sawzall but not a grinder???? Carbide sawzall blades are $13 here, but probably worth their weight in gold for your purposes Correct. I guess the rationale is that while they both create sparks, a recip is minimal by comparison. I've used a recip at the junkyard before, but only on easy stuff like sheet metal or to chop off a bent driveshaft...that's easy peasy...but the blades dull quickly and bend even quicker, so they're not my favorite thing to use,. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 29, 2020 Share Posted July 29, 2020 So you can use a sawzall but not a grinder???? Carbide sawzall blades are $13 here, but probably worth their weight in gold for your purposes Correct. I guess the rationale is that while they both create sparks, a recip is minimal by comparison. I've used a recip at the junkyard before, but only on easy stuff like sheet metal or to chop off a bent driveshaft...that's easy peasy...but the blades dull quickly and bend even quicker, so they're not my favorite thing to use,. Which is why I say get a quality carbide tooth blade from someone like Lenox. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted July 29, 2020 Share Posted July 29, 2020 Which is why I say get a quality carbide tooth blade from someone like Lenox. How bad are the front rails bent and where? If you have a good front bumper so you can get the spread and get them up & down straight also, its not that hard to get them right. Big trees or telephone poles make good pulling points with a come along and a sledge hammer will bring them back into place. I had to straighten mine and I took the best bumper I had to work with. Then again maybe that is the body / frame guy talking Oh and I did not have any heat wrench (torch) to work with. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted July 29, 2020 Author Share Posted July 29, 2020 How bad are the front rails bent and where? If you have a good front bumper so you can get the spread and get them up & down straight also, its not that hard to get them right. Ya know, now that I think of it, I probably can straighten the horns. Hmmm. It looks like the front right corner hit something at some time. There was a vertical crack just forward of the steering box that was welded...not sure if that was there before or as a result of a bump to the front end. The easiest way to explain it is that both horns are bent towards the driver's side. I'll have a look at it tomorrow again it is currently sitting outside the shop at my work. The driver's side horn is actually tweaked downwards a little bit as well. I have a good straight bumper and I actually have a nice spare front crossmember...this truck did not have one installed when I got it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted July 29, 2020 Author Share Posted July 29, 2020 How bad are the front rails bent and where? If I can get my hands on a couple crossmembers, I'll figure out a way to fix those horns...lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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