Rembrant Posted January 10, 2021 Author Share Posted January 10, 2021 Good news on firing up with starter fluid. On the #2 cylinder, my first thought was oil in the cylinder, which you did also. Really good rings, or oil in bad rings, or the rings are carboned up as you said, or sludged up. Odd that it’s only one cylinder though. Ya, it's an odd one for me. I guess I'll wait to see what happens after I run it up to temp and it loosens up all of the old stuck parts...lol. I did some searching on the topic, and some people suggest that it might be that the exhaust valve is not opening up enough on that cylinder, due to a loose rocker, collapsed lifter, or worn cam lobe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 Good news on firing up with starter fluid. On the #2 cylinder, my first thought was oil in the cylinder, which you did also. Really good rings, or oil in bad rings, or the rings are carboned up as you said, or sludged up. Odd that it’s only one cylinder though. Ya, it's an odd one for me. I guess I'll wait to see what happens after I run it up to temp and it loosens up all of the old stuck parts...lol. I did some searching on the topic, and some people suggest that it might be that the exhaust valve is not opening up enough on that cylinder, due to a loose rocker, collapsed lifter, or worn cam lobe. I don't know how a bad exhaust lobe could cause a high reading. This isn't some engine with 115% filling. When the intake opens the cylinder (when cranking) can only go to 1 bar. If there is a lot of carbon in that one cylinder it would cause a high reading. You might run a little ATF or Marvel Mystery Oil in the oil to see if detergent helps loosen things up. Certainly the rings are sticky, if not stuck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted January 10, 2021 Author Share Posted January 10, 2021 I don't know how a bad exhaust lobe could cause a high reading. This isn't some engine with 115% filling. When the intake opens the cylinder (when cranking) can only go to 1 bar. Ha, I don't know I was just Googling reasons, and that came up a couple times...not about the 300 specifically, but other engines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 11, 2021 Share Posted January 11, 2021 OK, some actual news with data today! I finally got this thing wired up enough that it could be cranked over. As I probably mentioned before, the history on this engine is unknown other than it has been sitting for quite a few years. I sprayed some Kroil in the cylinders months ago and rotated it a few times by hand. I did that again later on...still months ago now, but I can't remember if I used Kroil or Fluid Film. Rotated it again a few times by hand. Today I gave the "new" junkyard PMGR starter a workout and whirled her over at cranking speed for a cold compression test. Here are the results: 1. 130 PSI 2. 168 PSI 3. 140 PSI 4. 138 PSI 5. 130 PSI 6. 130 PSI So, what are you thoughts on cylinder number 2 @ 168 PSI? I later tested it again and got the exact same number. I also cranked it over with no spark plug in case there was any oil in there to spit out. I've read that compression numbers for a 300 should be between 100-150 lbs, so the cold numbers look OK, but cylinder #2 is weird. Carboned up I suppose? Tested for spark (good) and gave her a spray of starting fluid and it flashed up instantly. Only ran it for a couple seconds. I won't try it with actual gasoline until next weekend. So far, it looks promising lol. I'm thinking that once I can run it and warm it up a bit it would loosen up and maybe given me some different readings/? Yippee! It's alive! I think once you run it the numbers may change, so I wouldn't worry about it until then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted January 11, 2021 Author Share Posted January 11, 2021 Yippee! It's alive! I think once you run it the numbers may change, so I wouldn't worry about it until then. Gary, Noticed today that the ignition is sticky and doesn’t spring return properly. Is the spring in the housing where the tumbler is, or is it the switch at the bottom of the column that has a spring in it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 11, 2021 Share Posted January 11, 2021 Gary, Noticed today that the ignition is sticky and doesn’t spring return properly. Is the spring in the housing where the tumbler is, or is it the switch at the bottom of the column that has a spring in it? The spring is in the switch, everything else is linkage and the rack and pinion on the back of the tumbler. You'll be driving this thing before the month is out, Cory! Progress is good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted January 11, 2021 Share Posted January 11, 2021 The spring is in the switch, everything else is linkage and the rack and pinion on the back of the tumbler. You'll be driving this thing before the month is out, Cory! Progress is good! I agree with Jim, I can’t picture in my head a stuck valve upping the compression. You’re on the compression stroke. But, my head doesn’t always picture things right! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 11, 2021 Share Posted January 11, 2021 Gary, Noticed today that the ignition is sticky and doesn’t spring return properly. Is the spring in the housing where the tumbler is, or is it the switch at the bottom of the column that has a spring in it? Yes, Jim is right. Go to Documentation/Electrical/Ignition and then the Ignition Switch tab for instructions on how to adjust it, which also discusses the lack of returning to Run and how to lube it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted January 11, 2021 Author Share Posted January 11, 2021 Yes, Jim is right. Go to Documentation/Electrical/Ignition and then the Ignition Switch tab for instructions on how to adjust it, which also discusses the lack of returning to Run and how to lube it. Thanks Gary, that’s perfect. I didn’t know that adjustment procedure was in there. I just realized that I may have done something that is making it stick, so I should be able to get it fixed up quickly next weekend. Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 11, 2021 Share Posted January 11, 2021 Thanks Gary, that’s perfect. I didn’t know that adjustment procedure was in there. I just realized that I may have done something that is making it stick, so I should be able to get it fixed up quickly next weekend. Thanks again. I do notice when it gets bitter cold my key doesn't want to return. I think that's down to the plastic block of the switch contracting. Fortunately it doesn't get that cold very often anymore. And certainly not yet, this season. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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