Bruce moose4x4 Posted December 19, 2020 Share Posted December 19, 2020 That makes sense, Cory. Good luck on the trials. Hopefully you'll find a way that works nicely and is easy to finish. Back in the old days, not sure how old. The firetrucks I worked on used what they called a split tube. Just the round tube with a split all the way down it. they would slip the panel inside the slip and stitch weld along the split, then they would weld the ends shut. Made for a strong panel. not sure if you can still buy the split tube. But you could make it. I would definitely weld it on panel first the bend the top over. Qiuick search found this. They call it open seam tubing from 1/4 to 1 1/2 inch diameter. https://www.johnsonrollforming.com/display.php/display/C1/category/9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted December 19, 2020 Author Share Posted December 19, 2020 Back in the old days, not sure how old. The firetrucks I worked on used what they called a split tube. Just the round tube with a split all the way down it. they would slip the panel inside the slip and stitch weld along the split, then they would weld the ends shut. Made for a strong panel. not sure if you can still buy the split tube. But you could make it. I would definitely weld it on panel first the bend the top over. Qiuick search found this. They call it open seam tubing from 1/4 to 1 1/2 inch diameter. https://www.johnsonrollforming.com/display.php/display/C1/category/9 Interesting, Bruce. I've never heard of this tubing. I'll have to check it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted December 21, 2020 Share Posted December 21, 2020 Interesting, Bruce. I've never heard of this tubing. I'll have to check it out. If I was doing the bed sides with the tools I have it would be #3 also. As for bending the sides before or after the welding? 1-I would ask the shop doing the bending if it will fit in the brake with the pipe on it. 2-with the bend in it, it may make the "lip" less likely to warp when being welded. The wheels / tires look good even not being on the truck but .......... I found 31's (not BFG's) on a 10" wheel to be to wide even if the charts say it works. The tires did not ware good and they did not handle good. After the first set of tires wore out I went with an 8" wheels and same tires and they wore much better and same with the handling. Just what I found is all. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted December 21, 2020 Author Share Posted December 21, 2020 The wheels / tires look good even not being on the truck but .......... I found 31's (not BFG's) on a 10" wheel to be to wide even if the charts say it works. The tires did not wear good and they did not handle good. Dave, I was actually able to get the tires installed yesterday. Ever try to install a set of tire/wheels without lifting them?>..ha. It took a little screwing around with the jack, but it worked. Anyway, I know that 31's on 10" rims is probably not the preferred set-up, but I was wanting this arrangement, and for all intents and purposes, this truck (if I can ever finish it) will not get driven very much or very far. The tires would rot before I'd ever wear them out. It really IS just a project for something to do, and something to play around with when done. Anyway, I ran into a bit of a snag yesterday. I'm trying to finish up some engine bay work before I install the core support. I need to do fuel pump, oil filter, steering box, wiring, etc...just a bunch of stuff that will be easier without the core support in place. I wasn't planning on changing the water pump right away, but when I pulled the short little stub of hose off it yesterday I found the hose barb was rusted out, so I guess I need to add a water pump to the list. Problem is...how to remove that darn clutch fan on the 300 when it's well rusted in place?? I have a wrench that fits it, and according to my searches it is reverse thread (right to loosen), but how in the bloody heck do you hold the water pump from turning? I guess I'll have to make some kind of plate that bolts on to 2 or 4 of the pulley bolt holes on the water pump? And then...pray (with a hammer) that I can break that clutch fan loose? Any tips or tricks from a 300 inline 6 guy? Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted December 21, 2020 Share Posted December 21, 2020 The wheels / tires look good even not being on the truck but .......... I found 31's (not BFG's) on a 10" wheel to be to wide even if the charts say it works. The tires did not wear good and they did not handle good. Dave, I was actually able to get the tires installed yesterday. Ever try to install a set of tire/wheels without lifting them?>..ha. It took a little screwing around with the jack, but it worked. Anyway, I know that 31's on 10" rims is probably not the preferred set-up, but I was wanting this arrangement, and for all intents and purposes, this truck (if I can ever finish it) will not get driven very much or very far. The tires would rot before I'd ever wear them out. It really IS just a project for something to do, and something to play around with when done. Anyway, I ran into a bit of a snag yesterday. I'm trying to finish up some engine bay work before I install the core support. I need to do fuel pump, oil filter, steering box, wiring, etc...just a bunch of stuff that will be easier without the core support in place. I wasn't planning on changing the water pump right away, but when I pulled the short little stub of hose off it yesterday I found the hose barb was rusted out, so I guess I need to add a water pump to the list. Problem is...how to remove that darn clutch fan on the 300 when it's well rusted in place?? I have a wrench that fits it, and according to my searches it is reverse thread (right to loosen), but how in the bloody heck do you hold the water pump from turning? I guess I'll have to make some kind of plate that bolts on to 2 or 4 of the pulley bolt holes on the water pump? And then...pray (with a hammer) that I can break that clutch fan loose? Any tips or tricks from a 300 inline 6 guy? If the water pump is toast what's stopping you from jamming the impeller with a pry bar or something? Like Gary's power steering, it's just a core now... Truck looks nice up on those wheels, Cory! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 21, 2020 Share Posted December 21, 2020 The wheels / tires look good even not being on the truck but .......... I found 31's (not BFG's) on a 10" wheel to be to wide even if the charts say it works. The tires did not wear good and they did not handle good. Dave, I was actually able to get the tires installed yesterday. Ever try to install a set of tire/wheels without lifting them?>..ha. It took a little screwing around with the jack, but it worked. Anyway, I know that 31's on 10" rims is probably not the preferred set-up, but I was wanting this arrangement, and for all intents and purposes, this truck (if I can ever finish it) will not get driven very much or very far. The tires would rot before I'd ever wear them out. It really IS just a project for something to do, and something to play around with when done. Anyway, I ran into a bit of a snag yesterday. I'm trying to finish up some engine bay work before I install the core support. I need to do fuel pump, oil filter, steering box, wiring, etc...just a bunch of stuff that will be easier without the core support in place. I wasn't planning on changing the water pump right away, but when I pulled the short little stub of hose off it yesterday I found the hose barb was rusted out, so I guess I need to add a water pump to the list. Problem is...how to remove that darn clutch fan on the 300 when it's well rusted in place?? I have a wrench that fits it, and according to my searches it is reverse thread (right to loosen), but how in the bloody heck do you hold the water pump from turning? I guess I'll have to make some kind of plate that bolts on to 2 or 4 of the pulley bolt holes on the water pump? And then...pray (with a hammer) that I can break that clutch fan loose? Any tips or tricks from a 300 inline 6 guy? The tires and wheels look very good! And I'm glad you figured out how to get them on w/o lifting. As for the fan and water pump, I'm with Jim - do whatever is needed to get it off. Can you cut a semicircle out of a piece of angle, drop it down over the flange, and tack weld it to the flange? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted December 21, 2020 Share Posted December 21, 2020 The wheels / tires look good even not being on the truck but .......... I found 31's (not BFG's) on a 10" wheel to be to wide even if the charts say it works. The tires did not wear good and they did not handle good. Dave, I was actually able to get the tires installed yesterday. Ever try to install a set of tire/wheels without lifting them?>..ha. It took a little screwing around with the jack, but it worked. Anyway, I know that 31's on 10" rims is probably not the preferred set-up, but I was wanting this arrangement, and for all intents and purposes, this truck (if I can ever finish it) will not get driven very much or very far. The tires would rot before I'd ever wear them out. It really IS just a project for something to do, and something to play around with when done. Anyway, I ran into a bit of a snag yesterday. I'm trying to finish up some engine bay work before I install the core support. I need to do fuel pump, oil filter, steering box, wiring, etc...just a bunch of stuff that will be easier without the core support in place. I wasn't planning on changing the water pump right away, but when I pulled the short little stub of hose off it yesterday I found the hose barb was rusted out, so I guess I need to add a water pump to the list. Problem is...how to remove that darn clutch fan on the 300 when it's well rusted in place?? I have a wrench that fits it, and according to my searches it is reverse thread (right to loosen), but how in the bloody heck do you hold the water pump from turning? I guess I'll have to make some kind of plate that bolts on to 2 or 4 of the pulley bolt holes on the water pump? And then...pray (with a hammer) that I can break that clutch fan loose? Any tips or tricks from a 300 inline 6 guy? Really like those tires! Also didn't realize you had the aluminum frame slider. Very nice. I like that frame the best especially on a dark truck like yours. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted December 21, 2020 Author Share Posted December 21, 2020 If the water pump is toast what's stopping you from jamming the impeller with a pry bar or something? Like Gary's power steering, it's just a core now... Truck looks nice up on those wheels, Cory! I can't jam the impeller as the pump is still on the engine. I don't think you can reach the bolts with the pulley in the way. There's not much room between the pulley on the front of the pump, and the fan on the back of the clutch. Just a big nut (36mm wrench fits well, so 1 1/2" or so). I guess I'll try to make a U-shaped plate that fits a couple of the bolt holes in the water pump pulley. I've read where guy use an air chisel on the edges of the big hex nut. Might try that. I guess worse case scenario I'll cut it off with a recip, but I was hoping to salvage the clutch as it feels OK. Really like those tires! Also didn't realize you had the aluminum frame slider. Very nice. I like that frame the best especially on a dark truck like yours. Oh...I was actually planning to remove that slider...lol. I like the classic look of it, but it's pretty grungy. I saved the newer one out of the 1995 donor truck that I swapped the chassis out of and was planning to use it. It needs a deep cleaning as well, but it is 15 years newer. I'll have a better loook at the old aluminum one after I finish the thousand other things higher on the priority list haha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted December 21, 2020 Author Share Posted December 21, 2020 If the water pump is toast what's stopping you from jamming the impeller with a pry bar or something? Like Gary's power steering, it's just a core now... Truck looks nice up on those wheels, Cory! Oh...wait...did you mean stick a pry bar up through the suction of the pump? I never thought of that... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted December 21, 2020 Share Posted December 21, 2020 If the water pump is toast what's stopping you from jamming the impeller with a pry bar or something? Like Gary's power steering, it's just a core now... Truck looks nice up on those wheels, Cory! Oh...wait...did you mean stick a pry bar up through the suction of the pump? I never thought of that... Ah, I was just trying to reply that. But I keep getting a grey dog eared sad face page, and my post is lost. I don't know about the 300's because the inlet is on the other side, but I can see the impeller with the lower radiator hose off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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