Rembrant Posted July 25, 2020 Author Share Posted July 25, 2020 Does it make a difference what year it is as long as it runs good? No sir, not really, I'm just curious what year truck it was pulled from. My 3spd is long gone now. I sold it not long after removing it. I do have a spare 5spd, but it is a 2wd 5spd. I could still use it to crank the engine over I suppose. I may try that. Stupid question, but what way does the crank rotate if I get under there and try to turn it? It is clockwise right, looking at the front end of the crank...or CCW looking at the back end. I will pull the plugs tomorrow and see if it will move. The truck still has the SBF engine mounts in there, so if the 300 is bad it might end up with a 302...lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted July 25, 2020 Share Posted July 25, 2020 Does it make a difference what year it is as long as it runs good? No sir, not really, I'm just curious what year truck it was pulled from. My 3spd is long gone now. I sold it not long after removing it. I do have a spare 5spd, but it is a 2wd 5spd. I could still use it to crank the engine over I suppose. I may try that. Stupid question, but what way does the crank rotate if I get under there and try to turn it? It is clockwise right, looking at the front end of the crank...or CCW looking at the back end. I will pull the plugs tomorrow and see if it will move. The truck still has the SBF engine mounts in there, so if the 300 is bad it might end up with a 302...lol. From the bottom up how did they mount the 300 if the 302 parts are still in it? Is the motor just placed in there and not bolted down? I will have to check my truck on the direction it turns but to see if it will turn by hand I don't think it makes a difference. Could check the firing order on the cap and turn the motor and see what way the rotor turns to follow the firing order, 1-5-3-6-2-4. It is either that trans or a bell housing just to mount the starter so you could see if it runs. As for when it was made see if you can find the casting marks as it should list when it was casted. Then you know it was casted before the install date think they say 6 months to a year before. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted July 25, 2020 Author Share Posted July 25, 2020 Do we know when they went to that style air filter over the tear drop type like I have on my truck? A little Googling brought me back some results... According to this thread, the engine should be between 1984-1986. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1208011-300ci-i6-engine-identification.html Not that it matters much, but I was just curious what era/version the engine was, in case there were any changes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted July 25, 2020 Author Share Posted July 25, 2020 From the bottom up how did they mount the 300 if the 302 parts are still in it? Is the motor just placed in there and not bolted down? The motor is bolted down, but tilted backwards some as there is no transmission in the truck to support it. The 300 oil filter is almost touching the driver's side SBF engine mount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted July 25, 2020 Share Posted July 25, 2020 Do we know when they went to that style air filter over the tear drop type like I have on my truck? A little Googling brought me back some results... According to this thread, the engine should be between 1984-1986. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1208011-300ci-i6-engine-identification.html Not that it matters much, but I was just curious what era/version the engine was, in case there were any changes. I was just thinking if it was a EFI motor the manifolds have all the holes filled. IIRC when you put the EFI EXH manifolds on a non-EFI head the manifold has some empty holes. Now I am not sure if it is running non EFI manifolds & head as I don't remember back that far LOL Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 25, 2020 Share Posted July 25, 2020 Looks to me like you have a found a solid 4x4 FlareSide. The real teller is probably the frame. I think the possible claim of a Free Wheeler truck is strong, it looks very similar to one on the cover of the 1980 Free Wheeling brochure. The frame is "iffy"...lol. I'm stripping the truck anyway, so I'm not going to judge the frame until I get it stripped down with the body removed. All four rear leaf spring hangers need to come off, as do the upper shock mounts, etc. I won't be able to get a real good idea on the frame until those parts are removed. As it stands right now it needs some work for sure...but how much I don't know yet. It might be worth a bunch of welding, maybe not. Interior emptied of junk and cleaned out. It was gross in there, but this thing has been sitting for a long time. The truck was originally a 4spd, but somebody swapped in an auto column but didn't install the auto gear indicator. The hole for the 4spd has a patch welded over it. It's not awful...I've seen worse. Um, I like those crates and the dirt bikes in the background... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted July 26, 2020 Author Share Posted July 26, 2020 Um, I like those crates and the dirt bikes in the background... Ha! There are two bikes there that belong to the tech the works for me. One is a 1980 Suzuki...DR or RM or something...not sure, but it is a 2-stroke. The other is a Honda street and trail...newer...well, newer than the other one. I don't know much else about them. The crates are equipment of ours that is waiting to be shipped. It's handy to have the use of the shop at my work. I'll be using the forklift to pull the cab and engine, maybe today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted July 26, 2020 Author Share Posted July 26, 2020 Does it make a difference what year it is as long as it runs good? No sir, not really, I'm just curious what year truck it was pulled from. My 3spd is long gone now. I sold it not long after removing it. I do have a spare 5spd, but it is a 2wd 5spd. I could still use it to crank the engine over I suppose. I may try that. Stupid question, but what way does the crank rotate if I get under there and try to turn it? It is clockwise right, looking at the front end of the crank...or CCW looking at the back end. I will pull the plugs tomorrow and see if it will move. The truck still has the SBF engine mounts in there, so if the 300 is bad it might end up with a 302...lol. Well the 300/6 isn't seized by any means. I pulled the plugs today and sprayed some Kroil into the cylinders, and it rolled over (by hand) with ease. That's good news at least. I removed the carb and spacer and put it aside for inspection later on. I removed the cab and front clip today, and will pull the engine out of the frame tomorrow. The frame is pretty ripe in this thing. Too far gone to repair likely... But, I'm not throwing in the towel just yet. I don't mind doing some welding, it's just that it might need too much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 26, 2020 Share Posted July 26, 2020 Well the 300/6 isn't seized by any means. I pulled the plugs today and sprayed some Kroil into the cylinders, and it rolled over (by hand) with ease. That's good news at least. I removed the carb and spacer and put it aside for inspection later on. I removed the cab and front clip today, and will pull the engine out of the frame tomorrow. The frame is pretty ripe in this thing. Too far gone to repair likely... But, I'm not throwing in the towel just yet. I don't mind doing some welding, it's just that it might need too much. Well if you got air in the tire and the brakes aren't seized, at least it is rolling! I've seen far more Chevy's and Toyota's that fell clean in half than Ford's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted July 26, 2020 Author Share Posted July 26, 2020 Well the 300/6 isn't seized by any means. I pulled the plugs today and sprayed some Kroil into the cylinders, and it rolled over (by hand) with ease. That's good news at least. I removed the carb and spacer and put it aside for inspection later on. I removed the cab and front clip today, and will pull the engine out of the frame tomorrow. The frame is pretty ripe in this thing. Too far gone to repair likely... But, I'm not throwing in the towel just yet. I don't mind doing some welding, it's just that it might need too much. Next up in my list of questions are these things... This is how I received them. They were kept indoors, but were not covered or protected in any way, so they're full of dust, dirt, and debris. If I go looking for bearing and seal kits for these things, can anybody give me any pointers? I know the front is a Dana 44 and the rear is a 9", but that's all that I know. Are there any year over year differences or changes that one needs to know about? Recommended parts or brands of kits? I don't need premium parts for this thing, but not junk either...middle of the road?...whatever. Also, as far as other special tools required, will I need a special hub socket for the 4x4 front hubs? Words of wisdom? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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