1980 F150 4x4 Flareside Project

[Gary Lewis]

I didn't think shortbeds came with the side tank?

It would be 16 gallons, I guess?

Do you intend to pull a Dave? (in reverse)

Yes, side tank in shortbeds is 16 gallon.

Yes, I might do a Dave in reverse...lol.

Why not do the "full Dave"?

Then again I don't know if you have a 16 gallon front tank to use at this time?

The only thing that may be why not do the "full Dave" is if you stay with the EFI and the needed tank switch valve.

With the carbed 300 six you could use the cheaper 3 port valve to switch between tanks.

I got to say the best mod I did has to be the dual tanks on my flare side.

And to go 1 step more go "fuller Dave" and do the metal floor

What trans would you be using with either the EFI v8 or the carb 300 six?

I would like to know how a M5OD would work with the 300 for a street truck.

Dave ----

Don't forget that he has a '95 with EFI, and they use fuel delivery modules in the tank(s) and no external tank switching valves. All the switching is done in the FDM as controlled by the switch on the dash. The fuel lines just have a wye to join the the front and rear supplies together and the same for the returns.

[FuzzFace2]

Don't forget that he has a '95 with EFI, and they use fuel delivery modules in the tank(s) and no external tank switching valves. All the switching is done in the FDM as controlled by the switch on the dash. The fuel lines just have a wye to join the the front and rear supplies together and the same for the returns.

That is why I said unless he stayed EFI as it would be harder to do the dual tanks mod.

If he went with the 300 I don't think he would be able to run the FDM as the psi would be to high for the carb.

I am sure Cory has a good plan LOL

Dave ----

[Gary Lewis]

Don't forget that he has a '95 with EFI, and they use fuel delivery modules in the tank(s) and no external tank switching valves. All the switching is done in the FDM as controlled by the switch on the dash. The fuel lines just have a wye to join the the front and rear supplies together and the same for the returns.

That is why I said unless he stayed EFI as it would be harder to do the dual tanks mod.

If he went with the 300 I don't think he would be able to run the FDM as the psi would be to high for the carb.

I am sure Cory has a good plan LOL

Dave ----

If he stays EFI the dual tank approach is easier since there's no external valve, just a wye in both the supply and the return.

If he goes to a carb all he has to do is to stick Holley regulator, Part # 12-881, on there. That will step the EFI pressure down to whatever pressure he wants for a carb, so there's no need to change the fuel system. And, hopefully very soon, I'll have a how-to on connecting the nylon fuel line to that regulator.

The only downside is that currently the "estimated ship date is 8/12/2020". But, for $56 it isn't too bad.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I didn't think shortbeds came with the side tank?

It would be 16 gallons, I guess?

Do you intend to pull a Dave? (in reverse)

Yes, side tank in shortbeds is 16 gallon.

Yes, I might do a Dave in reverse...lol.

Why not do the "full Dave"?

Then again I don't know if you have a 16 gallon front tank to use at this time?

The only thing that may be why not do the "full Dave" is if you stay with the EFI and the needed tank switch valve.

With the carbed 300 six you could use the cheaper 3 port valve to switch between tanks.

I got to say the best mod I did has to be the dual tanks on my flare side.

And to go 1 step more go "fuller Dave" and do the metal floor

What trans would you be using with either the EFI v8 or the carb 300 six?

I would like to know how a M5OD would work with the 300 for a street truck.

Dave ----

I absolutely meant that Cory was going to use the metal floor, as well.

But building on your experience might not have quite so much 'back and forth' as you.

[FuzzFace2]

If he stays EFI the dual tank approach is easier since there's no external valve, just a wye in both the supply and the return.

If he goes to a carb all he has to do is to stick Holley regulator, Part # 12-881, on there. That will step the EFI pressure down to whatever pressure he wants for a carb, so there's no need to change the fuel system. And, hopefully very soon, I'll have a how-to on connecting the nylon fuel line to that regulator.

The only downside is that currently the "estimated ship date is 8/12/2020". But, for $56 it isn't too bad.

If that is the case then FDM would be the way to go I am not up on this new fancy stuff on out old truck

Dave ----

 

[Gary Lewis]

If he stays EFI the dual tank approach is easier since there's no external valve, just a wye in both the supply and the return.

If he goes to a carb all he has to do is to stick Holley regulator, Part # 12-881, on there. That will step the EFI pressure down to whatever pressure he wants for a carb, so there's no need to change the fuel system. And, hopefully very soon, I'll have a how-to on connecting the nylon fuel line to that regulator.

The only downside is that currently the "estimated ship date is 8/12/2020". But, for $56 it isn't too bad.

If that is the case then FDM would be the way to go I am not up on this new fancy stuff on out old truck

Dave ----

Very sure that's the case as that's what I'm doing on BB - after a LOT of research. Have a new 18 gallon rear tank/FDM coming in today for like $135 delivered. And the 19 gallon side tank is coming in today as well, but the FDM is hung up at the Post Office.

But, I forgot to say that the Bricknose sending units are upside down and backwards to ours so will read incorrectly on a Bullnose w/o my upcoming Arduino project. But the Arduino should come in for well less than $100 and also read lots of other things. For instance, it will be able to read the coolant temp and oil pressure and sound an alarm/light a light if they go low.

[1986F150Six]

But the Arduino should come in for well less than $100 and also read lots of other things. For instance, it will be able to read the coolant temp and oil pressure and sound an alarm/light a light if they go low.

Or, too high?

 

[Gary Lewis]

Or, too high?

Yes, or too high. My plan is to have a warning light in the "eyebrow" of the instruments that tells the driver something is wrong, and then readouts elsewhere that tell him/her what the problem is. So the Arduino is planned to be watching:

• Coolant temp, with over-temp warning

• Oil pressure, with low pressure warning

• Starting battery voltage, with warning for both under and over voltage

• Aux battery voltage, ditto

[Rembrant]

I'd be a huge seafood whore if I were in the Maritimes in summer.

PEI mussels and catch off the dock would be my everyday.

You guys had me craving fish and chips after all this seafood talk the other day...lol. As I said, I don't eat it all that often, but it sure is good when I do. This was in a small restaurant in a local hotel. "Some good" as we say around here.

Here's a picture of the donor truck that will be turned into a Bullnose. I just stopped by and paid for it last night and will likely have it picked up next week. Like everything else around here, it's a rust bucket, but I'm OK with that. I still have almost a full gallon of Ospho and lots of wire wheels and flapper disks (and wire for the Mig).

The good news...for me..

It's a factory 5.0L 5spd truck. I like that.

Short wheelbase means I don't have to shorten it.

Front and rear factory swaybars are nice (don't have to hunt for them)

3.55 geared diffs. I'll be running 31's, so I think the 3.55 gears will be a great match up.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

I'd be a huge seafood whore if I were in the Maritimes in summer.

PEI mussels and catch off the dock would be my everyday.

You guys had me craving fish and chips after all this seafood talk the other day...lol. As I said, I don't eat it all that often, but it sure is good when I do. This was in a small restaurant in a local hotel. "Some good" as we say around here.

Here's a picture of the donor truck that will be turned into a Bullnose. I just stopped by and paid for it last night and will likely have it picked up next week. Like everything else around here, it's a rust bucket, but I'm OK with that. I still have almost a full gallon of Ospho and lots of wire wheels and flapper disks (and wire for the Mig).

The good news...for me..

It's a factory 5.0L 5spd truck. I like that.

Short wheelbase means I don't have to shorten it.

Front and rear factory swaybars are nice (don't have to hunt for them)

3.55 geared diffs. I'll be running 31's, so I think the 3.55 gears will be a great match up.

..... ok, I'm drooling now.

Seems like good 'bones' for your bitsa Flareside.

Have you found a needle scaler you can run with your compressor yet?

You are going to end up so covered in rust you look like an oompa loompa!