JMUBullnose Posted September 11, 2020 Author Share Posted September 11, 2020 8mm is 5/16, 10mm is 3/8. My personal preference is low pressure fuel line and constant tension spring clamps. I don't want to go back and have to tighten them as they take a set. Blast from the past, I still exist! Switched jobs, spending a lot more time at home and have time to start working on Old Red more. This past weekend I swapped out the LMC power window adapter kit & old manual crank regulator to the OEM style power window regulator/motors. Super simple swap....once I found a 1/4" riveter! (Thank goodness for Harbor Freight!) Removal of the LMC kit was easy, several screws holding it in place and it popped off. Drilled out the blind rivets for the hand crank regulators (while supporting the window with a board). Got the new assembly in and after a few minutes and looking at diagrams got the holes to line up and mounted with 1/4" rivets. Spliced the power wires together and reconnected the battery. Boom - power windows. First one took me half a day between figuring it all out and finding a tool. Passenger window took me under an hour! Photos for reference: After: Side note - anyone have recommendations for replacing the old liner that was on the door, under the trim panels? I was thinking heavy duty plastic liner (8 mil?) with holes cut for the protrusions...similar to modern cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986F150Six Posted September 11, 2020 Share Posted September 11, 2020 Side note - anyone have recommendations for replacing the old liner that was on the door, under the trim panels? I was thinking heavy duty plastic liner (8 mil?) with holes cut for the protrusions...similar to modern cars. LMC indicates they sell a mylar water shield set [#49-5337] https://media.lmctruck.com/pdf/FD/0057.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMUBullnose Posted September 11, 2020 Author Share Posted September 11, 2020 Side note - anyone have recommendations for replacing the old liner that was on the door, under the trim panels? I was thinking heavy duty plastic liner (8 mil?) with holes cut for the protrusions...similar to modern cars.LMC indicates they sell a mylar water shield set [#49-5337]https://media.lmctruck.com/pdf/FD/0057.pdfWell how bout that! Thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted September 11, 2020 Share Posted September 11, 2020 I used vapor barrier leftover from my crawlspace encapsulation and held it on with Eastwood flexible strip caulk. Considering it doesn't get any 'traffic' you'd be fine with the rolls of plastic you lay down for painting. $5 for (5) 9'x12' rolls here locally. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted September 11, 2020 Share Posted September 11, 2020 I used vapor barrier leftover from my crawlspace encapsulation and held it on with Eastwood flexible strip caulk. Considering it doesn't get any 'traffic' you'd be fine with the rolls of plastic you lay down for painting. $5 for (5) 9'x12' rolls here locally. Just be sure to leave a vent somewhere. Slamming the door will blow the windshield out when the glue gets old. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac79 Posted September 12, 2020 Share Posted September 12, 2020 Side note - anyone have recommendations for replacing the old liner that was on the door, under the trim panels? I was thinking heavy duty plastic liner (8 mil?) with holes cut for the protrusions...similar to modern cars. LMC indicates they sell a mylar water shield set [#49-5337] https://media.lmctruck.com/pdf/FD/0057.pdf I wasn't super happy with these. It might work better with your power windows, as it doesn't have a provision for the crank. Nothing really aligns well either. I can't remember how much they were($10 each?), but as I was installing them I thought they were a waste of money. I should have just done what I did 4 years ago... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted September 12, 2020 Share Posted September 12, 2020 Blast from the past, I still exist! Switched jobs, spending a lot more time at home and have time to start working on Old Red more. This past weekend I swapped out the LMC power window adapter kit & old manual crank regulator to the OEM style power window regulator/motors. Super simple swap....once I found a 1/4" riveter! (Thank goodness for Harbor Freight!) Removal of the LMC kit was easy, several screws holding it in place and it popped off. Drilled out the blind rivets for the hand crank regulators (while supporting the window with a board). Got the new assembly in and after a few minutes and looking at diagrams got the holes to line up and mounted with 1/4" rivets. Spliced the power wires together and reconnected the battery. Boom - power windows. First one took me half a day between figuring it all out and finding a tool. Passenger window took me under an hour! Photos for reference: After: Side note - anyone have recommendations for replacing the old liner that was on the door, under the trim panels? I was thinking heavy duty plastic liner (8 mil?) with holes cut for the protrusions...similar to modern cars. ..... One contractor bag is enough to do both doors. 💡 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMUBullnose Posted October 3, 2021 Author Share Posted October 3, 2021 ..... One contractor bag is enough to do both doors. 💡 Holy cow, has it really been over a year since I last posted here and about my truck!? Good grief that's been a while, I've been lurking as I think of things to wrench on and look for parts. Life has changed quite a bit! Sold our house, moving over a few states and living in a condo while waiting for our new place to be built. I did take the opportunity while the truck sat at my folk's house to have the local shop do some work on it - type of place that's been around for 30+ years and the owner himself does all the carb work. So, I had the following done in the last couple months: -Transmission Flush and filter change -Rear Differential serviced -Power steering serviced -Replaced all the U-Joints -Left outer tierod replaced (alignment checked and toe in set) -Transmission mount replaced -Carb rebuilt -Headlight switch replaced -Rubber Fuel lines from tanks to tank switch replaced Talk about ticking off some boxes! Truck is driving better, feels pretty great when in motion, etc. Starting STILL remains an issue though if the truck has set for 3+ days (worse if it's been a couple weeks). I can't tell if I've got a fuel leak somewhere or some sort of odd siphon going on with my wonky tank switch (gas will siphon from rear tank to front tank until rear tank is empty). So, coming back to the brain trust - any ideas on where to investigate next? Replace more of the soft fuel lines? Replace the tank switch on the frame? I just walked past the truck after it's been sitting since I drove it this previous Friday and caught a whiff of fuel - re-'igniting' my thoughts on the subject... So, any thoughts folks? I know its been some time since I last said hello! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted October 3, 2021 Share Posted October 3, 2021 Holy cow, has it really been over a year since I last posted here and about my truck!? . Starting STILL remains an issue though if the truck has set for 3+ days (worse if it's been a couple weeks). I can't tell if I've got a fuel leak somewhere or some sort of odd siphon going on with my wonky tank switch (gas will siphon from rear tank to front tank until rear tank is empty). So, any thoughts folks? I know its been some time since I last said hello! Yes we have thoughts but some may not want to hear them First know there is no way fuel can siphon out of the carb's fuel bowl as fuel comes into the top with an air gap to the supply so no way it can happen. What is happening is normal with todays gas blend, it is evaporating and happens faster when heat is added to the carb. You need to keep the carb as cool as you can and that is not easy with the heat under the hood. If you do a search on "hot start" and "hard start after sitting" you should find information. My truck can sit for a week and I just crank it a lot and pump the he11 out of the pedal till it fires up. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMUBullnose Posted October 4, 2021 Author Share Posted October 4, 2021 Holy cow, has it really been over a year since I last posted here and about my truck!? . Starting STILL remains an issue though if the truck has set for 3+ days (worse if it's been a couple weeks). I can't tell if I've got a fuel leak somewhere or some sort of odd siphon going on with my wonky tank switch (gas will siphon from rear tank to front tank until rear tank is empty). So, any thoughts folks? I know its been some time since I last said hello! Yes we have thoughts but some may not want to hear them First know there is no way fuel can siphon out of the carb's fuel bowl as fuel comes into the top with an air gap to the supply so no way it can happen. What is happening is normal with todays gas blend, it is evaporating and happens faster when heat is added to the carb. You need to keep the carb as cool as you can and that is not easy with the heat under the hood. If you do a search on "hot start" and "hard start after sitting" you should find information. My truck can sit for a week and I just crank it a lot and pump the he11 out of the pedal till it fires up. Dave ---- Oh we got a funny guy! Just noticed your photo - my truck is the inverse paint job of yours! My thinking on the siphon is more of a "If the tank selector switch is stuck open, could fuel be siphoning back into the tank from the fuel lines?" (Not the carb fuel bowl) Yeah - when I have a 'hard start' situation it usually takes a minute or two of cranking a few times with a couple pedal presses and then it'll start. Sometimes it catches but then bogs down and stalls when I shift into gear after letting it idle a couple minutes. When I went to move the truck from my folks house, it hadn't been driven in a few weeks and the battery nearly went flat during cranking. Quick shot of starting ether and it fired right away and held idle. My overaching goal is to make it so my wife feels comfortable that she can get out there and start it without having to monkey around with things for 5-10 minutes. (Patience, whats that? ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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