Fan Shroud Repair and Broken Water Pump Bolt

[Machspeed]

Well today has not been a good day for me. I've ordered a water pump which should be here in a few days. Thought I'd get a head start on things and remove the existing water pump. In the process broke a tab on my fan shroud and even worse, a water pump bolt which of course remains in the block. With the exception of the broken bolt, I've removed all but one as it feels like it could snap too. I was afraid of this when I started. I've drilled out and tapped bolts before but you've got to be right on the mark when you do that. Hopefully I can put some heat to the existing stud after the pump is removed and remove the left over with some vice grips.....arghhhh

As to the broken tab on my radiator shroud, can I get a recommendation for some glue that will hold?

 

[Gary Lewis]

Unfortunately broken bolts in Ford water pumps is all too common. And I've had to drill some out as well. but hopefully you can get to that one with the pump off then heat it and cool it several times. I like to get it as hot as I can and then cool it with PB Blaster or some other penetrating oil. My thinking is that the thermal shock helps to break the bond the rust has and then the oil can creep in.

On the tab, I think Jim will have a recommendation as he's into chemistry and adhesives. If not, I have some in the shop and can get the name of it tomorrow.

[old55pete]

Those are the most common bolts to brake off as they also go through the aluiminum casting( timing cover).

There is going to be alot a lot of white powder in there with the bolts, a chemical reaction between the aluminum and the steel bolts. I have seen them so bad that the timing cover had to be broken off to get them out, I hope not. Get a large can of PB blaster and start spraying it into the holes and take a punch with a hammer, put the punch in the hole and smack the bolt to set up a vibration after you have sprayed the bolts. keep doing that to get the cover off without damage. When you put it back together, put plenty of never seize on the bolts so you wont have this fight all over again.

As for the fan shroud, there is a Ford part on the bottom left corner. There is a compainy out of Colorado that makes them and will ship them to you for under $150.00. I was rather impressed with the one that I got from them and it also has the Ford part number and was an extact fit.

[FuzzFace2]

Those are the most common bolts to brake off as they also go through the aluiminum casting( timing cover).

There is going to be alot a lot of white powder in there with the bolts, a chemical reaction between the aluminum and the steel bolts. I have seen them so bad that the timing cover had to be broken off to get them out, I hope not. Get a large can of PB blaster and start spraying it into the holes and take a punch with a hammer, put the punch in the hole and smack the bolt to set up a vibration after you have sprayed the bolts. keep doing that to get the cover off without damage. When you put it back together, put plenty of never seize on the bolts so you wont have this fight all over again.

As for the fan shroud, there is a Ford part on the bottom left corner. There is a compainy out of Colorado that makes them and will ship them to you for under $150.00. I was rather impressed with the one that I got from them and it also has the Ford part number and was an extact fit.

Good luck on the broken bolt.

I think I would look into a plastic welding kit and weld it back up.

I have used https://www.plastex.net/on other plastics but think it will also work on this too.

Dave ----

[ArdWrknTrk]

On the tab, I think Jim will have a recommendation as he's into chemistry and adhesives. If not, I have some in the shop and can get the name of it tomorrow.

Gary, I use an epoxy called G-flex by West Systems.

It's available as a viscous liquid or something between a paste and a gel.

I'd also probably cut a couple of fiberglas patches to overlap some of the surrounding shroud.

Wipe it down with alcohol, scuff the bonding surfaces with fairly coarse sandpaper, like 80, wipe it again and pass a flame quickly over the surface shortly before trying to bond it.

This removes contaminants and then oxidizes the surface.

These shrouds are made of an impact resistant plastic, but that means they have very little active surface chemistry to bond to.

Wet the plastic out with epoxy.

Set the fiberglas patch on the wet surface.

Using a little tin throwaway flux brush, dab at the fiberglass until it becomes transparent.

Lay another patch on top with the weave at 45* to the first dab that one on, adding a little more epoxy if needed.

They have an example video showing them cutting a polyethylene canoe in half, gluing it back together and jumping up and down in it while floating in water.

As for the broken bolt(s) you're going to have to get the pump off some way before dealing with it.

I'm a fan of burning the aluminum oxide out with acid then welding a nut to the broken shank.

This gives you something to put a wrench on and you can't ask for more heat that molten steel (fusion)

Drilling and easyouts have never worked well for me.

And if you need up with a super hard easy-out snapped off in your block that will REALLY ruin your day!

I always use Loctite PST (Pipe Sealant with Teflon)

This completely seals the threads and the Teflon adds a bit of lubrication.

Remember, if there's nowhere for oxygen or electrolyte to be corrosion can't start.

Somewhere I have pictures of the bolts from the last time I changed my timing case gasket.

They all came out pretty easy.

 

[Machspeed]

Those are the most common bolts to brake off as they also go through the aluiminum casting( timing cover).

There is going to be alot a lot of white powder in there with the bolts, a chemical reaction between the aluminum and the steel bolts. I have seen them so bad that the timing cover had to be broken off to get them out, I hope not. Get a large can of PB blaster and start spraying it into the holes and take a punch with a hammer, put the punch in the hole and smack the bolt to set up a vibration after you have sprayed the bolts. keep doing that to get the cover off without damage. When you put it back together, put plenty of never seize on the bolts so you wont have this fight all over again.

As for the fan shroud, there is a Ford part on the bottom left corner. There is a compainy out of Colorado that makes them and will ship them to you for under $150.00. I was rather impressed with the one that I got from them and it also has the Ford part number and was an extact fit.

Thanks for the above info, gentlemen! Seems lately I take one step forward and two steps back. Ole Blackie is miffed at me for all those years of neglect.

As I need to replace at least one of the broken bolts, any recommendation on bolts? Probably just replace them all. Not feeling too keen on putting local hardware grade 8 bolts in there.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Thanks for the above info, gentlemen! Seems lately I take one step forward and two steps back. Ole Blackie is miffed at me for all those years of neglect.

As I need to replace at least one of the broken bolts, any recommendation on bolts? Probably just replace them all. Not feeling too keen on putting local hardware grade 8 bolts in there.

I've used stainless bolts going back, now.

Exhaust manifolds too.

It's nice to have a head for the wrench to fit, a few years down the road!

Though the chrome in stainless is more cathodic than steel there's not pitting for corrosion to get a bite on, and the bolts come right out.

[Gary Lewis]

I've used stainless bolts going back, now.

Exhaust manifolds too.

It's nice to have a head for the wrench to fit, a few years down the road!

Though the chrome in stainless is more cathodic than steel there's not pitting for corrosion to get a bite on, and the bolts come right out.

Totally Stainless has packages for many engines, so maybe yours?

[Machspeed]

Totally Stainless has packages for many engines, so maybe yours?

Alright fellas, I said my prayers today and I do mean I prayed. With some heat, PB Blaster, and some hammering, I worked the bolt out moving it back and forth. I think the heat was the big factor. So, I have a single bolt I need to remove as shown in the picture below, I'm thinking this bolt may not go into the block but it's hard to tell. Can anyone confirm that for me?

My other big decision is, do I want to remove the timing chain cover? I put heat up and down the cover in the removal of that bolt and I likely fried the gasket in that area. Thoughts?

[Gary Lewis]

Alright fellas, I said my prayers today and I do mean I prayed. With some heat, PB Blaster, and some hammering, I worked the bolt out moving it back and forth. I think the heat was the big factor. So, I have a single bolt I need to remove as shown in the picture below, I'm thinking this bolt may not go into the block but it's hard to tell. Can anyone confirm that for me?

My other big decision is, do I want to remove the timing chain cover? I put heat up and down the cover in the removal of that bolt and I likely fried the gasket in that area. Thoughts?

Prayer works! Glad it did in your case.

But, I think all of those bolts go into the block, as shown below. And if I was that far into it I'd sure want to replace the gasket behind the cover. And, while there, check out the timing chain.