howisdoug1 Posted July 8, 2020 Share Posted July 8, 2020 My name is Douglas Schouten I am 67 years old male. My landlord gifted me this truck which was sitting on his property abandoned since 2017. It is a 1986 Ford F150 4x2 with a 5.8 litre 351 W H.O. Holly 4180C 4-v Carb. C6 Automatic Transmission W/AC Tilt Wheel and Speed control White outside and blue and white inside. I have never had a Ford Truck before, early in life I had a Chevrolet and a Dodge and then a bunch of not driving years with a spinal injury. I have been working on it on and off for the past year and I am really liking the truck and the attention you receive when driving it, Oh I forgot to say 69,000 original miles. The 4th of July I went to the car wash and sprayed it off and dried it off but nothing under the Hood. When I tried starting it to leave it turned over and started but also the starter kept running so I turned the key off and both motor and starter kept running maybe a minute and I could hear the motor slowing down like it was getting starved for air and it shook and stopped. After it stopped, if i turned the key on nothing lit up and I checked the battery and it had 5.53 volts but no lights at all so I replaced the starter relay and still does nothing checked all the fuses and they were all good, now I am baffled.I live in Phoenix AZ. I going to getting a hip replacement as soon as my Doctor can schedule it because of the corona virus. Any input would be super. I am Mechanically inclined but I am not a mechanic. Thank you Doug Schouten Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted July 8, 2020 Share Posted July 8, 2020 Welcome to the forum Doug or you like Douglas? I am not one that can flip the switch but I am sure someone will be by soon. As for the no power under the hood where the + battery cable hooks to the solenoid there should be some smaller gauge wires there also. The smaller wires should be what is called fuse links. They act just like a fuse and blow if the load is too great but can take a spike and not blow. When the solenoid get stuck, this is somewhat common and a hit with something can sometimes stop it, you can get a back feed that blows the fuse link. I have found if you try and bend the wires, 1 at a time, in a arc if it had blown it will make a sharp bend. You can also take a test light or meter and start at the solenoid and work your way up the wire so see if it get power all the way to where it connects to a normal wire at the harness. You can buy replacements at the parts stores. Dave ---- ps they will ask if you want to be placed on a members map it is up to you if you want to be added or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 8, 2020 Share Posted July 8, 2020 Yes, welcome! At 67 you are young - I'm 73 and there are at least two others on here older than I am. But I've not had to have a hip replacement so all I can say, having watched others do it, is to heed the therapist's instructions. My brother thought he was tough and didn't, and paid the price. On your truck, if you only have 5.3 volts at the battery you'll have to charge it to get it started. And you'll probably need to replace the starter relay on the fender as it is apparently welded shut. That happens, but sometimes that's because you have a bad cable or connection. Other times the starter itself is bad and drawing way too much current. And Dave is right, we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I can add you if you give me a city or zip code. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986F150Six Posted July 8, 2020 Share Posted July 8, 2020 Yes, welcome! At 67 you are young - I'm 73 and there are at least two others on here older than I am. But I've not had to have a hip replacement so all I can say, having watched others do it, is to heed the therapist's instructions. My brother thought he was tough and didn't, and paid the price. On your truck, if you only have 5.3 volts at the battery you'll have to charge it to get it started. And you'll probably need to replace the starter relay on the fender as it is apparently welded shut. That happens, but sometimes that's because you have a bad cable or connection. Other times the starter itself is bad and drawing way too much current. And Dave is right, we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I can add you if you give me a city or zip code. Welcome to the forum! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 8, 2020 Share Posted July 8, 2020 Welcome Doug! Good advice posted. The fuselink wires connected to the battery post of the relay can be identified by the rubber junction and tab on them. Hope it is an easy fix for you. 👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howisdoug1 Posted July 8, 2020 Author Share Posted July 8, 2020 Yes, welcome! At 67 you are young - I'm 73 and there are at least two others on here older than I am. But I've not had to have a hip replacement so all I can say, having watched others do it, is to heed the therapist's instructions. My brother thought he was tough and didn't, and paid the price. On your truck, if you only have 5.3 volts at the battery you'll have to charge it to get it started. And you'll probably need to replace the starter relay on the fender as it is apparently welded shut. That happens, but sometimes that's because you have a bad cable or connection. Other times the starter itself is bad and drawing way too much current. And Dave is right, we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I can add you if you give me a city or zip code. Thanks Gary, The first thing I did when the truck and the starter stopped was to disconnect the cables from the battery and put on a slow charge battery charger. Then I ordered a starter relay and when it came I put it on and yes two of the smaller wires that went to the relay had fusible links in the line and i tested them with a meter and by pressing a pin through the coating as the Bullnose Bible says and they tested good. So now the battery has a charge of right around 12.5 volts and the replay is in place and I hooked up the cables neg last. hopped in turned the key. Well nothing happened no dome light, It is like I took out the battery and left it out. Phoenix AZ. 85007 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howisdoug1 Posted July 8, 2020 Author Share Posted July 8, 2020 Welcome to the forum Doug or you like Douglas? I am not one that can flip the switch but I am sure someone will be by soon. As for the no power under the hood where the + battery cable hooks to the solenoid there should be some smaller gauge wires there also. The smaller wires should be what is called fuse links. They act just like a fuse and blow if the load is too great but can take a spike and not blow. When the solenoid get stuck, this is somewhat common and a hit with something can sometimes stop it, you can get a back feed that blows the fuse link. I have found if you try and bend the wires, 1 at a time, in a arc if it had blown it will make a sharp bend. You can also take a test light or meter and start at the solenoid and work your way up the wire so see if it get power all the way to where it connects to a normal wire at the harness. You can buy replacements at the parts stores. Dave ---- ps they will ask if you want to be placed on a members map it is up to you if you want to be added or not. Thank you Fuzz face for replying I haven't figured it out yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howisdoug1 Posted July 8, 2020 Author Share Posted July 8, 2020 Welcome to the forum! Thanks for the welcome and info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howisdoug1 Posted July 8, 2020 Author Share Posted July 8, 2020 Welcome Doug! Good advice posted. The fuselink wires connected to the battery post of the relay can be identified by the rubber junction and tab on them. Hope it is an easy fix for you. 👍 Thanks for the welcome and in a bit I'll watch how you guys do this posting and message's to ArdWrknTrk. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howisdoug1 Posted July 8, 2020 Author Share Posted July 8, 2020 Welcome Doug! Good advice posted. The fuselink wires connected to the battery post of the relay can be identified by the rubber junction and tab on them. Hope it is an easy fix for you. 👍 Thanks To the Administrator for the welcome and info. Sounds and looks like you have been busy with your truck (fun busy). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts