Old School Cool

[Jacob84]

I'm not sure if your 9" will accept the type but 10.25" rears are notorious for wheel seals.

Ford even has a TSB for an upgraded Scottseal type seal, where essentially there is an interlocking inner and outer non-moving lip seal.

So the inner turns with the axle and all relative motion is in the seal itself.

If you don't have these (and can fit them) it is a solution to investigate.

Thanks Jim, I’ll look into that:nabble_smiley_good:

Well, I’ve determined that both rear wheel bearings need to be replaced. They are rather noisy and I also noticed that the differential is chattering loudly. There’s also a very loud clunk and shudder when I put the truck in gear because of the slack in the rear end. I know the differential needs to be replaced and so do the bearings. There’s no since and ignoring it till it comes apart because then there will be a tow fee on top of a new rear end. I could just replace the differential but if I’m gonna get that far into it I’m gonna replace it all and just do it once. Not to mention the rear end probably has 300k to 400k miles on it. I’d have peace of mind just going ahead and doing it all at once.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Thanks Jim, I’ll look into that:nabble_smiley_good:

Well, I’ve determined that both rear wheel bearings need to be replaced. They are rather noisy and I also noticed that the differential is chattering loudly. There’s also a very loud clunk and shudder when I put the truck in gear because of the slack in the rear end. I know the differential needs to be replaced and so do the bearings. There’s no since and ignoring it till it comes apart because then there will be a tow fee on top of a new rear end. I could just replace the differential but if I’m gonna get that far into it I’m gonna replace it all and just do it once. Not to mention the rear end probably has 300k to 400k miles on it. I’d have peace of mind just going ahead and doing it all at once.

There's no sense of reassurance like having a refurbished unit.

You don't need to spend Curry kind of $$$ to get there either.

You might ask around driveline places if they have just what you need, on the shelf.

A swap (with your core) is much more straight forward.

You probably want to check your U-bolts before taking the old one out and being stranded.

[Jacob84]

There's no sense of reassurance like having a refurbished unit.

You don't need to spend Curry kind of $$$ to get there either.

You might ask around driveline places if they have just what you need, on the shelf.

A swap (with your core) is much more straight forward.

You probably want to check your U-bolts before taking the old one out and being stranded.

Exactly. I’d love to rebuild it myself but I’d always be wondering if I did it right.

I’m definitely not paying Currie prices. Are they tough and nice? Sure, but not necessary for me. I found a pretty good deal on a built third member from speedway motors. Comes with a lot of “upgrades” and premium parts at a very competitive price. Not that I necessarily need those upgrades but it’s the same price as a stock refurbished unit right now. There aren’t any driveline shops close to me unfortunately. I’d have to make a road trip out of it and borrow a buddy’s truck. I’ve been looking at third members for awhile and I’m pretty confident in this one. But we shall see.....

[ArdWrknTrk]

Exactly. I’d love to rebuild it myself but I’d always be wondering if I did it right.

I’m definitely not paying Currie prices. Are they tough and nice? Sure, but not necessary for me. I found a pretty good deal on a built third member from speedway motors. Comes with a lot of “upgrades” and premium parts at a very competitive price. Not that I necessarily need those upgrades but it’s the same price as a stock refurbished unit right now. There aren’t any driveline shops close to me unfortunately. I’d have to make a road trip out of it and borrow a buddy’s truck. I’ve been looking at third members for awhile and I’m pretty confident in this one. But we shall see.....

Setting up gear mesh is art and intuition.

If you're well versed you still need to know any little idiosyncrasies of the third member you're working on.

I was immensely fortunate to get a few lessons from Paul Campbell, as far as patterns and how much shim to use to change them, but I'm still not confident enough to want to do it myself.

[FuzzFace2]

I'm not sure if your 9" will accept the type but 10.25" rears are notorious for wheel seals.

Ford even has a TSB for an upgraded Scottseal type seal, where essentially there is an interlocking inner and outer non-moving lip seal.

So the inner turns with the axle and all relative motion is in the seal itself.

If you don't have these (and can fit them) it is a solution to investigate.

I thought you would like the head light harness just by its self.

With it in place the new bulbs will also get full volts.

Cant wait to see the pictures when you get time to post them all.

Sorry cant help on the shaking but you have some good help from others.

Dave ----

[Jacob84]

I thought you would like the head light harness just by its self.

With it in place the new bulbs will also get full volts.

Cant wait to see the pictures when you get time to post them all.

Sorry cant help on the shaking but you have some good help from others.

Dave ----

Look what showed up today! Tonight I’ll finish up all of the testing. May not be able to make a big post on it tonight but I should be able to get all of the pictures.

[Gary Lewis]

Look what showed up today! Tonight I’ll finish up all of the testing. May not be able to make a big post on it tonight but I should be able to get all of the pictures.

Yippee!!! Can't wait for the pictures and report.

And, by the way, another test you could do is to check the voltage at the headlights before & after the harness change.

[Jacob84]

Look what showed up today! Tonight I’ll finish up all of the testing. May not be able to make a big post on it tonight but I should be able to get all of the pictures.

While I’m waiting for it to get dark I’ll show y’all my new taillights I got and give a brief review.

These are “Coast to Coast International Body Parts” brand. I got them from Summit Racing. They are pretty affordable. They are also made in Taiwan. The overall appearance is pretty good and the overall value is pretty good. The only issue is that where they melted the two pieces of the housing together at the top there is a buildup of melted plastic. Not a big deal, you don’t see it when they’re installed but it does require you give it a little extra “persuasion” when putting them in. Or you could file the plastic down and they’d fit easy. Other than that they’re a nice piece. Good value and if they get busted it’s no big deal because they’re replaceable at an economic price. And best of all, they’re not cloudy and dull

[Jacob84]

Yippee!!! Can't wait for the pictures and report.

And, by the way, another test you could do is to check the voltage at the headlights before & after the harness change.

That’s a good idea, Gary. I’ll do that too!

[ArdWrknTrk]

While I’m waiting for it to get dark I’ll show y’all my new taillights I got and give a brief review.

These are “Coast to Coast International Body Parts” brand. I got them from Summit Racing. They are pretty affordable. They are also made in Taiwan. The overall appearance is pretty good and the overall value is pretty good. The only issue is that where they melted the two pieces of the housing together at the top there is a buildup of melted plastic. Not a big deal, you don’t see it when they’re installed but it does require you give it a little extra “persuasion” when putting them in. Or you could file the plastic down and they’d fit easy. Other than that they’re a nice piece. Good value and if they get busted it’s no big deal because they’re replaceable at an economic price. And best of all, they’re not cloudy and dull

New taillights look good.

I wonder how you'll like the pattern of the E-code lenses?

You're making progress Jacob!