The replacing of a c6 with t19. More than just the swap

[ArdWrknTrk]

Yes, that's cool! And you could put a plastic plug in the hole to give it a bit of a finished look.

So, could you have both electric and manual?

I seriously doubt you could override the electric motor with the hand crank, so it would need some kind of clutched mechanism.

[Gary Lewis]

I seriously doubt you could override the electric motor with the hand crank, so it would need some kind of clutched mechanism.

That was my thinking too, Jim. I think the motor has a worm gear drive which can't be overcome.

[FuzzFace2]

That was my thinking too, Jim. I think the motor has a worm gear drive which can't be overcome.

Get one of them motors that turn a crank window into electric that fit the crank spline.

You might be able to use the wiring to work the motor and if it gave out remove it and use the handle.

Because it would be in the out side you would need to make a cover to keep weather off it.

Didn't Jeep have the wiper motor outside in the early years?

Dave ----

[ArdWrknTrk]

That was my thinking too, Jim. I think the motor has a worm gear drive which can't be overcome.

That's the reason worm and wheel is used over bevel gears in tuning string instruments like pianos and guitars.

[IDIBronco]

That's the reason worm and wheel is used over bevel gears in tuning string instruments like pianos and guitars.

I think the older jeep wagoneers had a window handle externally you stuck the key into to operate the window. That is ideally the type handle I would like. It would be made to withstand being outside full time as that is the way it is designed, but I do not have one of those just laying around.

It would be neat if you could make it a system where it could be operated both ways, but it seems like it is more likely to have an issue with an additional mechanism in place to disengage the power motor.

 

[Frank Wyatt]

That's the reason worm and wheel is used over bevel gears in tuning string instruments like pianos and guitars.

That's a great "outside of the box" solution there. A write up of the modification with pictures would be a great help for others having the same or similar problem as you was.

[IDIBronco]

That's a great "outside of the box" solution there. A write up of the modification with pictures would be a great help for others having the same or similar problem as you was.

I will definitly try to make a writeup on the how to. I am not sure I have a second operator mechanism available, I will have to look at the door off the wrecked parts truck I have. Perhaps I can redo the modification of adding the operator to the power regulator i just removed. I "think" it might clear the tailgate sheet metal without cutting the hole even. So i could use it for power with the manual operator in place on a tailgate without the hole in the future. The hardest part is locating the hole for the handle to go through. Both of the tailgates I have are in less than pristine condition and are not precise on locating the regulator left and right. Both times the hole ended up a little off when trying to center on the tailgate. I resigned myself to just drilling it oversized and if i decise to leave the handle in I would use a big stainless fender washer as a "bezel". Cover the excess hole. It just occured to me that perhaps I can loosen the bolts on the regulator now and center the regulator on the centered hole... Interesting.

Something else to add on to the growing to do list.

I am kind of shocked no one else actually did it.

[IDIBronco]

I will definitly try to make a writeup on the how to. I am not sure I have a second operator mechanism available, I will have to look at the door off the wrecked parts truck I have. Perhaps I can redo the modification of adding the operator to the power regulator i just removed. I "think" it might clear the tailgate sheet metal without cutting the hole even. So i could use it for power with the manual operator in place on a tailgate without the hole in the future. The hardest part is locating the hole for the handle to go through. Both of the tailgates I have are in less than pristine condition and are not precise on locating the regulator left and right. Both times the hole ended up a little off when trying to center on the tailgate. I resigned myself to just drilling it oversized and if i decise to leave the handle in I would use a big stainless fender washer as a "bezel". Cover the excess hole. It just occured to me that perhaps I can loosen the bolts on the regulator now and center the regulator on the centered hole... Interesting.

Something else to add on to the growing to do list.

I am kind of shocked no one else actually did it.

Does anyone know if ford made a flip up emblem for a trunk lid like the old Cadillac cars had for the key? If they did I guess a person could center the emblem over the hole and then flip,it up and slide the handle in. Just would end up with the emblem centered in the tailgate at about the same height as it was originally just not on the left side.

Now it has me wondering if you could modify the latch assembly to lock on the tailgate by using door parts. So if the manual window handle was installed all the time, you could use the key to actually lock and unlock the tailgate. It would be easy to bend up some operating rods for the key to latch to make it lock and unlock. Even if someone where to roll the window down it would be unlikely they could lift a heavy toolbox up and over the tailgate that way...

Perhaps I need to stop trying to come up with new ideas to work on and focus on the current list.

[IDIBronco]

Does anyone know if ford made a flip up emblem for a trunk lid like the old Cadillac cars had for the key? If they did I guess a person could center the emblem over the hole and then flip,it up and slide the handle in. Just would end up with the emblem centered in the tailgate at about the same height as it was originally just not on the left side.

Now it has me wondering if you could modify the latch assembly to lock on the tailgate by using door parts. So if the manual window handle was installed all the time, you could use the key to actually lock and unlock the tailgate. It would be easy to bend up some operating rods for the key to latch to make it lock and unlock. Even if someone where to roll the window down it would be unlikely they could lift a heavy toolbox up and over the tailgate that way...

Perhaps I need to stop trying to come up with new ideas to work on and focus on the current list.

Turns out the the adding a manual operator is a bit more complicated, but I think I know how to fix the issue. Just need more free time.

Currently the window rolls down, except the last 2 inches of glass. It is an issue with the drivers side gear on the regulator not being long enough for the oprerator to go the full travel of the glass down. So it looks like a little more custom work will be needed, but can handle the 2 inces of glass out since i can roll it up and keep the weather out for now. The end of the window gear is probably just a handful of teeth too short. I could either splice a section of gear to that, or make a radial cut accross the gear and reindex the arm to a new location, or possibly remove the arm and flip the gear and index it into the proper position. I think flipping it would give the additional travel to the right area where the operator gear is located. A new problem for a different day. The motor has enough range to lower the window way below fully down it looks like so perhaps the best option would be a radial cut across the gear and reindex the arm and weld it in place. That way the power motor could be used in the future yet.

 

[IDIBronco]

Turns out the the adding a manual operator is a bit more complicated, but I think I know how to fix the issue. Just need more free time.

Currently the window rolls down, except the last 2 inches of glass. It is an issue with the drivers side gear on the regulator not being long enough for the oprerator to go the full travel of the glass down. So it looks like a little more custom work will be needed, but can handle the 2 inces of glass out since i can roll it up and keep the weather out for now. The end of the window gear is probably just a handful of teeth too short. I could either splice a section of gear to that, or make a radial cut accross the gear and reindex the arm to a new location, or possibly remove the arm and flip the gear and index it into the proper position. I think flipping it would give the additional travel to the right area where the operator gear is located. A new problem for a different day. The motor has enough range to lower the window way below fully down it looks like so perhaps the best option would be a radial cut across the gear and reindex the arm and weld it in place. That way the power motor could be used in the future yet.

More progress while the forums were down...

The interior portion on the conversion is buttoned up, except the shifter hole. I am planning to use the t19 tunnel cover as a pattern to trim the floor plate if I can.

I have the brake lines tweaked and installed, and the hydroboost/power steering pressure lines in. The return on the hydroboost and power steering should get done today. I have decided to go ahead with the simple tee method for the return now. I do not want to mess with the extra brackets to mount a different cooler, and filter at this time. I also have some reservations about the filter being a possible issue for returning fluid. If the filter was anything more then a course screen I am not sure what the result to the hydroboost or steering box would be with some back pressure. I haven't done enough reading on that to be confident it is a good idea. Although, I cannot imagine it would be am issue if you maintained a good schedule to replace the filter. There Just isn't any easy way to monitor the conditions and be sure the filter is in good shape with out perhaps a prefilter pressure reading. I would have to do more reading before I moved forward in that direction.

I ordered a 1/2 inch brass PEX tee on Amazon and got it the next day for the same price Home Depot carries it for and didn't have to run after it.

I also had my wife pick up new return line and clamps on her way home from work yesterday so I can put the return together and not worry about it for a while. The swap is almost to the point of being about the same work as a clutch swap. A few little details, than pull the c6, flexplate, starter, and remove c6 specific components (cooler lines, linkage, jump park switch wiring) and the start installing the t19 parts.

I am getting pretty excited, I had been most concerned with the portion of the swap that I nearly have done. All the changing parts under the dash and hood I had some concern with having the right parts.

There was a bit of struggle with the clutch push rod. I have never worked with an adjustable clutch rod like this before and had thought there was an obstruction under the dash not allowing the pedal to return to the fully released position. It was also making the pedal bracket hard to get aligned and bolted down properly. I even removed the throttle lock and cable I had installed because I thought there was interference. Once I figured out I had the linkage adjusted too far the wrong way it all just started aligning quite a bit easier.

One of those situations where a lot of time was wasted on a simple problem that I just couldn't get worked out. I do not like admitting to having missed a simple detail like that, but if it helps someone else I am glad to share.

Perhaps today I can get the throttle lock back installed.