ArdWrknTrk Posted November 7, 2020 Share Posted November 7, 2020 It is the the tank on the left hand side forward of the rear axle. I removed the three screws and popped off the metal component with the vent tube attachment me point. I've been wiggling the tube at the neck of the tank but no luck popping it off. Hmmmm....Maybe I should pull the bed of the pick up and then it will be easier! Uhoh...slippery slope! On that note, I was considering making a flat bed and building an overland cabin/camper atop the flatbed. If (big emphasis on the if part) I do, does anyone need a short bed with some dings here and there? It has a small amount of rust but only spent one winter in Ohio, one winter in Colorado, and all the other winters were in California. I'm currently in Southern Maryland. Well that would solve the problem, but its kind of like tearing down the mountain to make it easier to reach the view from the summit. The bed does pinch the hose a bit. Especially if the rubber mounts are in bad shape. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HBF84 Posted November 7, 2020 Author Share Posted November 7, 2020 Well that would solve the problem, but its kind of like tearing down the mountain to make it easier to reach the view from the summit. The bed does pinch the hose a bit. Especially if the rubber mounts are in bad shape. Well, I was degreasing the Happy Blue Ford today and on the wash rack, I found this... Do I need to be worried?!? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HBF84 Posted November 7, 2020 Author Share Posted November 7, 2020 Well, I was degreasing the Happy Blue Ford today and on the wash rack, I found this... Do I need to be worried?!? It's about the size of a quarter and a quarter inch thick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 7, 2020 Share Posted November 7, 2020 Well, I was degreasing the Happy Blue Ford today and on the wash rack, I found this... Do I need to be worried?!? My first thought was that it is a choke bi-metallic spring. But one of those should be more like a silver dollar size. And there should be a different end on the inside piece - it should be straight there to go through the split shaft. So, might it be bigger? And does the inside end seem to be rough like it is broken off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HBF84 Posted November 7, 2020 Author Share Posted November 7, 2020 My first thought was that it is a choke bi-metallic spring. But one of those should be more like a silver dollar size. And there should be a different end on the inside piece - it should be straight there to go through the split shaft. So, might it be bigger? And does the inside end seem to be rough like it is broken off? Running great! The inside edge of the spring does appear a bit jagged. The mechanic mentioned that the choke spring broke...Perhaps it fell down into the engine bay and cleaning it today knocked it out! I'll go with that theory so I won't be stressed! HA! But, I will take a close look at the choke and carburetor and make sure it's all there! Thank you!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted November 7, 2020 Share Posted November 7, 2020 You want 80/90 gear oil in any TOD, SROD, RUG. Check Ford Technical Service Bulletin #832116 Hope its not too late! Yes 80/90 gear oil BUT HAS TO BE GL-4 OR LOWER! The new GL-5 gear oil you can get every where will hurt the yellow metal (syncros & bushings) Red Line oil MT-90 meets this and what came with my AA over drive. The oil I added to the NP435 I think I will drain as the trans is hard to shift into 3rd more so when cold and I don't remember this when I first installed the trans. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted November 7, 2020 Share Posted November 7, 2020 You want 80/90 gear oil in any TOD, SROD, RUG. Check Ford Technical Service Bulletin #832116 Hope its not too late! Yes 80/90 gear oil BUT HAS TO BE GL-4 OR LOWER! The new GL-5 gear oil you can get every where will hurt the yellow metal (syncros & bushings) Red Line oil MT-90 meets this and what came with my AA over drive. The oil I added to the NP435 I think I will drain as the trans is hard to shift into 3rd more so when cold and I don't remember this when I first installed the trans. Dave ---- Yes, it needs to be GL-4 rated and I'm sorry not to have mentioned that. The chlorine in most GL-5 will eat the zinc in brass synchros over time (a long time) All the fancy pants full synthetic companies (Amsoil, Red Line & Royal Purple) make lubes compatible with yellow metal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HBF84 Posted November 8, 2020 Author Share Posted November 8, 2020 Yes, it needs to be GL-4 rated and I'm sorry not to have mentioned that. The chlorine in most GL-5 will eat the zinc in brass synchros over time (a long time) All the fancy pants full synthetic companies (Amsoil, Red Line & Royal Purple) make lubes compatible with yellow metal. Well, I have the "Clark" 4 speed overdrive transmission and for the life of me I cannot figure out the drain plug and I suspect it just needs to get sucked out the filler hole with a "stinger" or whatever the proper term is. Am I wrong? Anyhow, I didn't end up doing it today! So, your advice is timely!!! After cleaning the engine compartment, I tried a "hack" on the gas filler tube (which was unsuccessful.) And, then I popped the chrome trim from the windshield. The butyl tape has been leaking for many many years and caused the floorboards to develop some pretty impressive holes! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted November 8, 2020 Share Posted November 8, 2020 Well, I have the "Clark" 4 speed overdrive transmission and for the life of me I cannot figure out the drain plug and I suspect it just needs to get sucked out the filler hole with a "stinger" or whatever the proper term is. Am I wrong? Anyhow, I didn't end up doing it today! So, your advice is timely!!! After cleaning the engine compartment, I tried a "hack" on the gas filler tube (which was unsuccessful.) And, then I popped the chrome trim from the windshield. The butyl tape has been leaking for many many years and caused the floorboards to develop some pretty impressive holes! I think the "Clark" is a mis-print so is yours the 3sp with over drive or granny first? The granny first transmissions (I18 & NP435) do have a drain plug I am not sure of the over drive one and I cant get to mine at this time to check. When I filled both the T19 & NP435 it replaced I was able to fill it thru the top. The T18 the top cover was off for repairs so I could see the fill plug to know when it was full. The MP435 I had the stick out and was able to fill thru it and the plug out of the fill hole to know when full. I have not messed with the SROD (3sp / OD) trans but pretty sure it cant be done thru the shifter. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HBF84 Posted November 8, 2020 Author Share Posted November 8, 2020 I think the "Clark" is a mis-print so is yours the 3sp with over drive or granny first? The granny first transmissions (I18 & NP435) do have a drain plug I am not sure of the over drive one and I cant get to mine at this time to check. When I filled both the T19 & NP435 it replaced I was able to fill it thru the top. The T18 the top cover was off for repairs so I could see the fill plug to know when it was full. The MP435 I had the stick out and was able to fill thru it and the plug out of the fill hole to know when full. I have not messed with the SROD (3sp / OD) trans but pretty sure it cant be done thru the shifter. Dave ---- Thanks FuzzFace! It's a "B" on the door tag. I'll take a picture tomorrow and try to get the data from the numbers stamped into it. But, it's the 4 speed overdrive (total of four forward gears) and the first gear is not a stump puller. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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