FuzzFace2 Posted June 12, 2020 Author Share Posted June 12, 2020 I’ve looked into these Rangers before. Cool! Hope it turns out well for you. I’m anxious to hear the results. Up at 3am for work, home early and after a cup of tea I moved the Javelin out of my garage back to the house and the truck in. Started pulling the truck apart about 12pm stopping for a run to the parts store for thread locker, 2qt W30 motor oil used for break in and some gasket sealer. Pulling the old T18 the HF transmission jack is to high so I had to tilt it and made a huge 90w gear oil mess beside taking a shower in it. But happy to say the OD unit is bolted to the bell housing. I wanted to get the NP435 bolted to the OD unit but I hurt my hip and called it quit at 4pm. Before I can bolt the transmission up I need to trim the front bearing retainer to 3/4" from the mounting face out keeping the seal in tack, then a thin coat of gasket sealer and bolt up. Then the fun. How do I get the 4 bolts out the top of the frame for the cross member? I don't want to bend the floor so guess undo the cab mount bolts and lift? Then I get to drill the frame for the cross member. I did try the OD shifter stick and 1 way it just clears the edge of the pan on the pan side but it will hit the dash. The other way it will be on the side of the trany hump and I don't really want it there. I am pretty sure I will end up cutting, bending and welding it to fit in the pan area. I have seen others do the same and also build a stand off to move it closer to the center of the hump. I also will not know where the shifter for the trans will end up in the pan but the SROD pan has the opening back farther than the T18 pan so I hope I don't have to cut it up too much. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted June 13, 2020 Share Posted June 13, 2020 Up at 3am for work, home early and after a cup of tea I moved the Javelin out of my garage back to the house and the truck in. Started pulling the truck apart about 12pm stopping for a run to the parts store for thread locker, 2qt W30 motor oil used for break in and some gasket sealer. Pulling the old T18 the HF transmission jack is to high so I had to tilt it and made a huge 90w gear oil mess beside taking a shower in it. But happy to say the OD unit is bolted to the bell housing. I wanted to get the NP435 bolted to the OD unit but I hurt my hip and called it quit at 4pm. Before I can bolt the transmission up I need to trim the front bearing retainer to 3/4" from the mounting face out keeping the seal in tack, then a thin coat of gasket sealer and bolt up. Then the fun. How do I get the 4 bolts out the top of the frame for the cross member? I don't want to bend the floor so guess undo the cab mount bolts and lift? Then I get to drill the frame for the cross member. I did try the OD shifter stick and 1 way it just clears the edge of the pan on the pan side but it will hit the dash. The other way it will be on the side of the trany hump and I don't really want it there. I am pretty sure I will end up cutting, bending and welding it to fit in the pan area. I have seen others do the same and also build a stand off to move it closer to the center of the hump. I also will not know where the shifter for the trans will end up in the pan but the SROD pan has the opening back farther than the T18 pan so I hope I don't have to cut it up too much. Dave ---- And you will be finding an F700 bench with a big notch out of the front of it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 13, 2020 Share Posted June 13, 2020 Up at 3am for work, home early and after a cup of tea I moved the Javelin out of my garage back to the house and the truck in. Started pulling the truck apart about 12pm stopping for a run to the parts store for thread locker, 2qt W30 motor oil used for break in and some gasket sealer. Pulling the old T18 the HF transmission jack is to high so I had to tilt it and made a huge 90w gear oil mess beside taking a shower in it. But happy to say the OD unit is bolted to the bell housing. I wanted to get the NP435 bolted to the OD unit but I hurt my hip and called it quit at 4pm. Before I can bolt the transmission up I need to trim the front bearing retainer to 3/4" from the mounting face out keeping the seal in tack, then a thin coat of gasket sealer and bolt up. Then the fun. How do I get the 4 bolts out the top of the frame for the cross member? I don't want to bend the floor so guess undo the cab mount bolts and lift? Then I get to drill the frame for the cross member. I did try the OD shifter stick and 1 way it just clears the edge of the pan on the pan side but it will hit the dash. The other way it will be on the side of the trany hump and I don't really want it there. I am pretty sure I will end up cutting, bending and welding it to fit in the pan area. I have seen others do the same and also build a stand off to move it closer to the center of the hump. I also will not know where the shifter for the trans will end up in the pan but the SROD pan has the opening back farther than the T18 pan so I hope I don't have to cut it up too much. Dave ---- Surprised Jim didn't say "Progress is good!" And, it is. As for the bolts, I used a pair of 2x4's screwed together to make a 4x4 and put them up under the cab to lift on. Pull the bolts for the mounts, raise that side of the cab, and pull the crossmember bolts. Drill new holes, put the bolts in place, and go do the other side. But watch the linkages/tubes, like clutch, brake, and throttle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted June 13, 2020 Author Share Posted June 13, 2020 And you will be finding an F700 bench with a big notch out of the front of it... I don't know if I could ever find one so I am thinking of making one from a seat I can get from a FTE member just around the corner when he is ready to give it up. I am going to help him swap wiring harness and dash between trucks like I did. When you did it once it is cake after that just have to get thru this virus thing first. He also needed to have someone hear the motor run in the truck he is using for parts before the swap. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted June 13, 2020 Author Share Posted June 13, 2020 And you will be finding an F700 bench with a big notch out of the front of it... I don't know if I could ever find one so I am thinking of making one from a seat I can get from a FTE member just around the corner when he is ready to give it up. I am going to help him swap wiring harness and dash between trucks like I did. When you did it once it is cake after that just have to get thru this virus thing first. He also needed to have someone hear the motor run in the truck he is using for parts before the swap. Dave ---- It was a long day, started around 8am and turned the lights off at 5:30pm. I did get done what I wanted just took longer than I thought it would. I removed the front bearing retainer as the snout has to be cut down to fit in the back of the over drive unit. Started with this And ended with this installed back on the transmission Because the trans on the jack will not fit under the truck upright I had to lay it on it's side then once under had to upright it. Well this was not going to work as you cant get leverage so I got 2 HD straps, ran it from frame rail to rail under the trans and lifted it off the jack than was able to rotate it up right then back on the trans jack and a strap to hold it in place. Got it jacked up, lined up and almost in when I remembered you have to put RTV sealer between the trans & OD or it will leak so I pulled it out a little and added the RTV, hope it is enough. I then washed the cross member & brackets as they were covered in oil from the motor & the old trans. Once bolted together the fun started on the cross member and brackets. When I put the cross member up to the trans I found the cross member off tone side? Turning the rubber mount around fixed that but came another issue. The OD pushes the trans back 7.5 inches and the frame lip gets thinner making the bolt hole half on & off the rail. After turning, pushing & pulling there was no way to get the bolt hole on the frame rail lip so I ground a notch on each side to fit the bolts thru and used large washers. I may come back and address this at a later time but I think it is a solid mount with the brackets installed. That was the next issue, the brackets. They fit like crap till I swapped sides and they fit better but still had a gap between them & frame or main cross member. So fitted them the best I could clamp them so I could mark the location of the bracket holes. Then the fun of drilling them. Started with a 1/8" bit then used a uni-bit to drill to the large size. I used a 45* drill and it fit between the channels to drill the holes. Got all the bolts and nut in and tight and no more trans jack holding up anything. So motor, over drive and NP435 are now one! I gave a quick fitting of the SROD pan and it did not fit and neither did the T18 pan. Not wanting to cut up the T18 pan in case I want to go back less OD, I will mod the SROD pan to work with this set up. I also installed the shifter to see if it clears the seat. Well it does clear the seat in the forward gears but in reveres it touches. So I will need to heat it and bend it to clear. As for the over drive shifter I may end up cutting, welding, heating and bending to make it fit like I want. The over drive is to the left. Tomorrow is shifter fitting of both and moding the pan to fit if I have the time. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac79 Posted June 14, 2020 Share Posted June 14, 2020 It was a long day, started around 8am and turned the lights off at 5:30pm. I did get done what I wanted just took longer than I thought it would. I removed the front bearing retainer as the snout has to be cut down to fit in the back of the over drive unit. Started with this And ended with this installed back on the transmission Because the trans on the jack will not fit under the truck upright I had to lay it on it's side then once under had to upright it. Well this was not going to work as you cant get leverage so I got 2 HD straps, ran it from frame rail to rail under the trans and lifted it off the jack than was able to rotate it up right then back on the trans jack and a strap to hold it in place. Got it jacked up, lined up and almost in when I remembered you have to put RTV sealer between the trans & OD or it will leak so I pulled it out a little and added the RTV, hope it is enough. I then washed the cross member & brackets as they were covered in oil from the motor & the old trans. Once bolted together the fun started on the cross member and brackets. When I put the cross member up to the trans I found the cross member off tone side? Turning the rubber mount around fixed that but came another issue. The OD pushes the trans back 7.5 inches and the frame lip gets thinner making the bolt hole half on & off the rail. After turning, pushing & pulling there was no way to get the bolt hole on the frame rail lip so I ground a notch on each side to fit the bolts thru and used large washers. I may come back and address this at a later time but I think it is a solid mount with the brackets installed. That was the next issue, the brackets. They fit like crap till I swapped sides and they fit better but still had a gap between them & frame or main cross member. So fitted them the best I could clamp them so I could mark the location of the bracket holes. Then the fun of drilling them. Started with a 1/8" bit then used a uni-bit to drill to the large size. I used a 45* drill and it fit between the channels to drill the holes. Got all the bolts and nut in and tight and no more trans jack holding up anything. So motor, over drive and NP435 are now one! I gave a quick fitting of the SROD pan and it did not fit and neither did the T18 pan. Not wanting to cut up the T18 pan in case I want to go back less OD, I will mod the SROD pan to work with this set up. I also installed the shifter to see if it clears the seat. Well it does clear the seat in the forward gears but in reveres it touches. So I will need to heat it and bend it to clear. As for the over drive shifter I may end up cutting, welding, heating and bending to make it fit like I want. The over drive is to the left. Tomorrow is shifter fitting of both and moding the pan to fit if I have the time. Dave ---- I don't know why, but I thought the OD would be behind the transmission... Anyway, looks like a lot of work. Would be interesting to hear if you think it was worth it once you've got it running, or do you already know it will be? Good work regardless to overcome the obstacles, must have been a long hot day in your garage... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 14, 2020 Share Posted June 14, 2020 It was a long day, started around 8am and turned the lights off at 5:30pm. I did get done what I wanted just took longer than I thought it would. I removed the front bearing retainer as the snout has to be cut down to fit in the back of the over drive unit. Started with this And ended with this installed back on the transmission Because the trans on the jack will not fit under the truck upright I had to lay it on it's side then once under had to upright it. Well this was not going to work as you cant get leverage so I got 2 HD straps, ran it from frame rail to rail under the trans and lifted it off the jack than was able to rotate it up right then back on the trans jack and a strap to hold it in place. Got it jacked up, lined up and almost in when I remembered you have to put RTV sealer between the trans & OD or it will leak so I pulled it out a little and added the RTV, hope it is enough. I then washed the cross member & brackets as they were covered in oil from the motor & the old trans. Once bolted together the fun started on the cross member and brackets. When I put the cross member up to the trans I found the cross member off tone side? Turning the rubber mount around fixed that but came another issue. The OD pushes the trans back 7.5 inches and the frame lip gets thinner making the bolt hole half on & off the rail. After turning, pushing & pulling there was no way to get the bolt hole on the frame rail lip so I ground a notch on each side to fit the bolts thru and used large washers. I may come back and address this at a later time but I think it is a solid mount with the brackets installed. That was the next issue, the brackets. They fit like crap till I swapped sides and they fit better but still had a gap between them & frame or main cross member. So fitted them the best I could clamp them so I could mark the location of the bracket holes. Then the fun of drilling them. Started with a 1/8" bit then used a uni-bit to drill to the large size. I used a 45* drill and it fit between the channels to drill the holes. Got all the bolts and nut in and tight and no more trans jack holding up anything. So motor, over drive and NP435 are now one! I gave a quick fitting of the SROD pan and it did not fit and neither did the T18 pan. Not wanting to cut up the T18 pan in case I want to go back less OD, I will mod the SROD pan to work with this set up. I also installed the shifter to see if it clears the seat. Well it does clear the seat in the forward gears but in reveres it touches. So I will need to heat it and bend it to clear. As for the over drive shifter I may end up cutting, welding, heating and bending to make it fit like I want. The over drive is to the left. Tomorrow is shifter fitting of both and moding the pan to fit if I have the time. Dave ---- Sure looks like a lot of work, Dave. But it will be worth it in the long run. You are going to love it. And, you are problem solving quite well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted June 14, 2020 Share Posted June 14, 2020 I don't know why, but I thought the OD would be behind the transmission... Anyway, looks like a lot of work. Would be interesting to hear if you think it was worth it once you've got it running, or do you already know it will be? Good work regardless to overcome the obstacles, must have been a long hot day in your garage... Looking good! Rob - that's one difference between the AA and the GVOD. Pros and cons with both but purely from an install perspective the GVOD is the easier. Really glad you are detailing the steps Dave - this will come in handy for a lot of others that are looking for an aux od. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted June 14, 2020 Author Share Posted June 14, 2020 I don't know why, but I thought the OD would be behind the transmission... Anyway, looks like a lot of work. Would be interesting to hear if you think it was worth it once you've got it running, or do you already know it will be? Good work regardless to overcome the obstacles, must have been a long hot day in your garage... Gear Vender's OD is after the transmission or transfer case. You pull off the tail housing install adaptor and bolt the unit on. Thing is being it is at the end it cant be used in 4x4 mode. It has a safety where it will not work below 30 MPH and it is BIG BUCKS! As for a lot of work well ..... When you read the information on AA's site it unbolt the transmission and move it back 7.5 inches, bolt the trans to the back of the OD unit, move the cross member back 7.5 inches, shorten the drive shaft and bolt the OD shifter stick and you done. Well ......Yes you do all that but it is the doing that can be the low of work part. I knew I would have to deal with the cross member but did not know it would be like that. I also knew of the shifters. The main trans could stay as is as long as the seat does not need to move forward then reverse may not go in but I will fix that. The OR shifter would work if I wanted to cut into the floor but I don't want to, it has to go in the pan. Once I have that squared away I will see if the carpet I have will fit over the pan as the (free) carpet was from an auto truck. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted June 14, 2020 Author Share Posted June 14, 2020 I don't know why, but I thought the OD would be behind the transmission... Anyway, looks like a lot of work. Would be interesting to hear if you think it was worth it once you've got it running, or do you already know it will be? Good work regardless to overcome the obstacles, must have been a long hot day in your garage... Gear Vender's OD is after the transmission or transfer case. You pull off the tail housing install adaptor and bolt the unit on. Thing is being it is at the end it cant be used in 4x4 mode. It has a safety where it will not work below 30 MPH and it is BIG BUCKS! As for a lot of work well ..... When you read the information on AA's site it unbolt the transmission and move it back 7.5 inches, bolt the trans to the back of the OD unit, move the cross member back 7.5 inches, shorten the drive shaft and bolt the OD shifter stick and you done. Well ......Yes you do all that but it is the doing that can be the low of work part. I knew I would have to deal with the cross member but did not know it would be like that. I also knew of the shifters. The main trans could stay as is as long as the seat does not need to move forward then reverse may not go in but I will fix that. The OR shifter would work if I wanted to cut into the floor but I don't want to, it has to go in the pan. Once I have that squared away I will see if the carpet I have will fit over the pan as the (free) carpet was from an auto truck. Dave ---- Thanks guys Rob I left out some things it was not that hot in the garage. The humidity was low today and temp got up to about 85*, 88* in the garage when I closed up. I also had my fan blowing down across the floor as I was under the truck most of the time. I have run the numbers thru the calculator with the rear gear (2.75) I have it should put me at about 1800 RPM @ 70 MPH. Speed limit is 70 here so everyone is doing 75-80but to keep the RPM down and MPG up I have been keeping it at 65 MPH. BTW at 55 MPH, the MAX speed limit back then it does about 1800 RPM Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts