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Operation NP435 & Over Drive


FuzzFace2

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As the subject said the next phase on my 81 Flare side is to swap out the T18 that has seen better days for a NP435 and install the Advance Adaptor Ranger Torque Splitter (AA RTS).

The NP has a lower 2nd gear ratio than the T18 so it should be easier on the clutch when driving empty as you drive both granny first transmissions as a 3sp unless you have a heavy load you need to get moving from a stop.

The OD should lower the RPM at 70 MPH to about 1800 RPM.

Right now I am running 2300 RPM @ 65 MPH and that is with a 2.74 rear gear ratio.

What is nice with the AA RTS is you can split all the gears so my 4sp granny first is now a 8sp granny first transmission with a 2sp reverse.

They say some of the gear splits are so close in ratio it is not worth it to split but after driving and splitting you will know what ones are worth splitting. Right now I wanted it mostly for the lower RPM on the highway and hope to get a little more MPG to boot.

I hope to get started this coming weekend or sooner depending on work and don't see why it should not be together other than needing to shorting the drive shaft.

Because I am changing transmissions I did not want to risk having a shft made to fit the T18 and find it would not work on the NP435.

So once the truck is on all 4 tires I will measure for a new drive shaft. I want to keep the T18 shaft just incase I want to go back less OD and I think it can be used with the NP435 so I will use the LB parts truck shaft as the one to mod.

20200608_134545.jpg.580f416c70cb0c0c360a7e5193e8213e.jpg

It came with 2 qt of oil to run after you run 30wt motor oil as a break in, shift handle & bolts, rubber boot and the bolts from the OD unit to the bell housing.

The hardest part I for see is drilling the holes in the frame for the cross member upper & lower, that is 8 holes total! Again I would have started but with out the NP435 bolted in place I did not want to drill in the wrong place.

I will be posting more pictures as I go along.

Dave ----

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I also have a used carpet to install if it will fit as it came out of a auto truck so I don't know how the trans tunnel will work out?

Dave ----

Dave, I am running my stock rubber flooring (low hump for 3 on the tree) with now the high hump and 5spd tunnel. It fits...not 100% perfect, but it fits and nobody would ever notice the difference.

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I also have a used carpet to install if it will fit as it came out of a auto truck so I don't know how the trans tunnel will work out?

Dave ----

Dave, I am running my stock rubber flooring (low hump for 3 on the tree) with now the high hump and 5spd tunnel. It fits...not 100% perfect, but it fits and nobody would ever notice the difference.

Cory, I was thinking the hump is not that high over the flat floor of the auto so I may be good.

For nothing I cant complain and if it does not go to the sills so what it has to be better than nothing and that is what I have now.

That is a little lie about 30 min ago a FTE local member dropped off 2 red carpet floor mats that I installed. Plan to take the tuck to work tomorrow so we will see how quite they make it.

Dave ----

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Dave, this is exciting.

As a long time truck driver you'll know how to split gears, and dropping the R's while cruising is going to make for a much more relaxed highway ride.

I hope to get my shaft to Execelsior(?) In Mamaroneck while I have it apart for a ring gear (and clutch)

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Following! This sounds like fun. :nabble_smiley_good:

I had a Toyota L/C that had an over drive that I would split the gears on.

It had some that where really to close to split just like I think this unit will have but should be fun.

Around town I don't know how much splitting will be done, it is more for the high way as I am looking for another gear when I get on.

When on the high way it is only spinning 2300 rpm @ 65 mph but the speed limit is 70 MPH.

I also think when I pull the car trailer splitting will help that little 300 pull the weight.

I want to start this project but I need the truck for the weekly trash run on Saturday as the truck has the permit but I may sneak this weeks trash in. I am sure if they catch me I can tell them that "bright red & white truck" is in the shop, it is the only truck that color I have seen all the times I have gone.

Dave ----

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Cory, I was thinking the hump is not that high over the flat floor of the auto so I may be good.

For nothing I cant complain and if it does not go to the sills so what it has to be better than nothing and that is what I have now.

That is a little lie about 30 min ago a FTE local member dropped off 2 red carpet floor mats that I installed. Plan to take the tuck to work tomorrow so we will see how quite they make it.

Dave ----

Dave,

This thing is REALLY cool. What are they worth if you don't mind me asking?

And, do you have any installed pics in a Bullnose? Curious to see the shifter arrangement in the cab.

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Dave,

This thing is REALLY cool. What are they worth if you don't mind me asking?

And, do you have any installed pics in a Bullnose? Curious to see the shifter arrangement in the cab.

To my door was $1608, I ordered it back early March just before this virus hit and messed up when I got it. It is now hot here, been in the 90's and humidity about the same just killer outside.

The Gear Vender OD is over $3000 and could not spring for that. Also did not think it would work the way I wanted it to. I would like to split granny and the GV you have to be going 30 MPH before it will work.

This is a safety because it works like and auto transmission and the pump that makes it work has to be going that fast.

I have not seen it in a Bullnose. What I have found they don't get into how the shifters, OD, main trans and maybe 4x4, all fit. They do say the floor or in our case the bolt in pan, has to have the opening moved back 7-1/2".

I have the pan from my parts truck, SROD trans, and the main hole is back farther than my T18 is so hope I don't need to cut & weld much.

Now I am going from the T18 to a NP435 and it has a different shape to the stick so I don't know how it will fit till installed.

I did find something cool when researching this the larger trucks F500+ have a cut back on the seat bottom to clear the shifter stick. If I knew this I would not have scrapped the seat bottom I had as I could have made it work the same but 80% of the springs were gone and why it went away.

I do have a line on another full seat I might try this on we will see.

I think the hardest part(s) drilling the 8 hole in the frame to move the cross member back, If the speedo cable will reach and if the stick will clear the seat.

In between the rain today I plain to swap car out of my garage into the house garage and get the truck in, maybe start the swap.

Stay tuned LOL

Dave ----

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Dave,

This thing is REALLY cool. What are they worth if you don't mind me asking?

And, do you have any installed pics in a Bullnose? Curious to see the shifter arrangement in the cab.

To my door was $1608, I ordered it back early March just before this virus hit and messed up when I got it. It is now hot here, been in the 90's and humidity about the same just killer outside.

The Gear Vender OD is over $3000 and could not spring for that. Also did not think it would work the way I wanted it to. I would like to split granny and the GV you have to be going 30 MPH before it will work.

This is a safety because it works like and auto transmission and the pump that makes it work has to be going that fast.

I have not seen it in a Bullnose. What I have found they don't get into how the shifters, OD, main trans and maybe 4x4, all fit. They do say the floor or in our case the bolt in pan, has to have the opening moved back 7-1/2".

I have the pan from my parts truck, SROD trans, and the main hole is back farther than my T18 is so hope I don't need to cut & weld much.

Now I am going from the T18 to a NP435 and it has a different shape to the stick so I don't know how it will fit till installed.

I did find something cool when researching this the larger trucks F500+ have a cut back on the seat bottom to clear the shifter stick. If I knew this I would not have scrapped the seat bottom I had as I could have made it work the same but 80% of the springs were gone and why it went away.

I do have a line on another full seat I might try this on we will see.

I think the hardest part(s) drilling the 8 hole in the frame to move the cross member back, If the speedo cable will reach and if the stick will clear the seat.

In between the rain today I plain to swap car out of my garage into the house garage and get the truck in, maybe start the swap.

Stay tuned LOL

Dave ----

I’ve looked into these Rangers before. Cool!

Hope it turns out well for you. I’m anxious to hear the results.

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