ArdWrknTrk Posted June 5, 2020 Share Posted June 5, 2020 Thank you. What are my options to replace that broken screw? I have not tried to get the shaft out but once I do is that screw something I can buy or need to order? The kit should arrive today late is there anything else I can do today to expedite it's install? Not trying to rush but just prepare. Thank you again for your guidance. I can't wait to get this thing back on the road. I'm not the expert here, Bill Vose is. The wafer head screws are definitely available. If you don't want to resort to red loctite you can get new ones and punch or peen the projecting ends to lock them in place. You definitely don't want anything falling into your engine if you can avoid it. Really all you can do is have everything surgically clean and laid out on a white towel. I do this so I can easily see if something is still dirty and so tiny items like springs and check balls don't run away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pizzadude Posted June 5, 2020 Author Share Posted June 5, 2020 I'm not the expert here, Bill Vose is. The wafer head screws are definitely available. If you don't want to resort to red loctite you can get new ones and punch or peen the projecting ends to lock them in place. You definitely don't want anything falling into your engine if you can avoid it. Really all you can do is have everything surgically clean and laid out on a white towel. I do this so I can easily see if something is still dirty and so tiny items like springs and check balls don't run away. Thanks. It just arrived so I'm going to get to it. I have an old deep dish pizza pan I have lined with a nice towel with everything in it and I'm going lay out all the kit parts as well. Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted June 5, 2020 Share Posted June 5, 2020 Thanks. It just arrived so I'm going to get to it. I have an old deep dish pizza pan I have lined with a nice towel with everything in it and I'm going lay out all the kit parts as well. Thank you I have never seen shaft bushings in any of the kits I have gotten in the past. If me and as bad as the carb was and needing to go thru smog I would have gone for a rebuilt or new one. Being you removed the shaft, I have only removed it once and could not get it to work right when back together, I never removed one after that. That is why I said to get a rebuilt or new one. On the power valve look on the outer part for the number. I have only seen 6.5 ones come in rebuild kits. Good luck. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce moose4x4 Posted June 5, 2020 Share Posted June 5, 2020 I have never seen shaft bushings in any of the kits I have gotten in the past. If me and as bad as the carb was and needing to go thru smog I would have gone for a rebuilt or new one. Being you removed the shaft, I have only removed it once and could not get it to work right when back together, I never removed one after that. That is why I said to get a rebuilt or new one. On the power valve look on the outer part for the number. I have only seen 6.5 ones come in rebuild kits. Good luck. Dave ---- If the kit doesn't have any bushings in it, let me know and I'll send you some. I have a tin full of Holley parts and I think I even have some screws. Not sure about that though. The medium duty truck kits always had the bushings in them. I am kind of like Fuzz I don't mess with trying to take the shafts out, have never had much luck with them. Good Luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 5, 2020 Share Posted June 5, 2020 If the kit doesn't have any bushings in it, let me know and I'll send you some. I have a tin full of Holley parts and I think I even have some screws. Not sure about that though. The medium duty truck kits always had the bushings in them. I am kind of like Fuzz I don't mess with trying to take the shafts out, have never had much luck with them. Good Luck! The key to getting the butterflies aligned correctly is to leave the screws slightly loose and slowly close the throttle while moving the butterflies. Once you get the throttle closed and the butterflies fit neatly in the bores tighten the screws down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted June 5, 2020 Share Posted June 5, 2020 The key to getting the butterflies aligned correctly is to leave the screws slightly loose and slowly close the throttle while moving the butterflies. Once you get the throttle closed and the butterflies fit neatly in the bores tighten the screws down. All true. I didn't get into the details, but it's not a problem, if you know what you're doing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pizzadude Posted June 5, 2020 Author Share Posted June 5, 2020 I have never seen shaft bushings in any of the kits I have gotten in the past. If me and as bad as the carb was and needing to go thru smog I would have gone for a rebuilt or new one. Being you removed the shaft, I have only removed it once and could not get it to work right when back together, I never removed one after that. That is why I said to get a rebuilt or new one. On the power valve look on the outer part for the number. I have only seen 6.5 ones come in rebuild kits. Good luck. Dave ---- Too late now lol I'm into it. Yes there is no number anywhere. I remember replacing it but don't know where I found it so. The one in the kit is a single stage and it's 4.5 I think Jim recommend 8 something tells me it's more like 8 because someone suggested like an 8 or 9 hell I can remember I do know it was a large number than 4.5 Also this ball is not on the diagram and I have no idea how to get it out or even if I should bother. The brass landing for the float spring seems to be just slid in but I'm afraid to try to pull it out. I have the new ball is this something I should do? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pizzadude Posted June 5, 2020 Author Share Posted June 5, 2020 If the kit doesn't have any bushings in it, let me know and I'll send you some. I have a tin full of Holley parts and I think I even have some screws. Not sure about that though. The medium duty truck kits always had the bushings in them. I am kind of like Fuzz I don't mess with trying to take the shafts out, have never had much luck with them. Good Luck! Thank you. So are these original or has this thing been rebuild? I'm going to have to take you up on the parts as as usual nobody around here can find them. I can get them from Holly though so I might do that. I will let you know. I had to take the shaft out since it was all gunked up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted June 5, 2020 Share Posted June 5, 2020 Too late now lol I'm into it. Yes there is no number anywhere. I remember replacing it but don't know where I found it so. The one in the kit is a single stage and it's 4.5 I think Jim recommend 8 something tells me it's more like 8 because someone suggested like an 8 or 9 hell I can remember I do know it was a large number than 4.5 Also this ball is not on the diagram and I have no idea how to get it out or even if I should bother. The brass landing for the float spring seems to be just slid in but I'm afraid to try to pull it out. I have the new ball is this something I should do? Thanks I would not worry if that check ball is free and sealing in its seat. IIRC Holley recommend one less than 1/2 idle vacuum. So, if it's 18" at idle, 1/2=9-1=#8 valve. But that's just a safe starting point, not Bible. The float springs should pull out gently. But I don't see any reason to mess with them. I change float seats, rubber tipped needles and adjust the float with the tab (inverted) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted June 6, 2020 Share Posted June 6, 2020 I would not worry if that check ball is free and sealing in its seat. IIRC Holley recommend one less than 1/2 idle vacuum. So, if it's 18" at idle, 1/2=9-1=#8 valve. But that's just a safe starting point, not Bible. The float springs should pull out gently. But I don't see any reason to mess with them. I change float seats, rubber tipped needles and adjust the float with the tab (inverted) X2 but I heard 1/2 of the vacuum at idle as a starting point. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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