Weberman Posted July 1, 2021 Author Share Posted July 1, 2021 The 4x4 lockout hubs, sorry not the hub itself Just looked more into it, see that they screw into the hubs body and the body is held in with a clip. So I would have to buy new hubs if the bolt heads end up breaking off. Hopefully the soak will work on them. But I just don't know with such a small bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 1, 2021 Share Posted July 1, 2021 Just looked more into it, see that they screw into the hubs body and the body is held in with a clip. So I would have to buy new hubs if the bolt heads end up breaking off. Hopefully the soak will work on them. But I just don't know with such a small bolt. Ahhh! Those bolts. Yes, they come with a new locking hub. And they can be a bear to get out. I put mine in with anti-seize, but that won't help you now. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted July 2, 2021 Share Posted July 2, 2021 Ahhh! Those bolts. Yes, they come with a new locking hub. And they can be a bear to get out. I put mine in with anti-seize, but that won't help you now. Good luck! If the oil doesn't work guess you can drill the heads off so the outer part can be removed and get to the ring holding the base on. Then maybe you can vice grips on them to remove? Dave. ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weberman Posted July 3, 2021 Author Share Posted July 3, 2021 Ahhh! Those bolts. Yes, they come with a new locking hub. And they can be a bear to get out. I put mine in with anti-seize, but that won't help you now. Good luck! Well they called me and said they were to the point of drilling them out. They were able to get one out but that was it. I just picked it up and decided I'd work on it. I think I'm at at point where I snap them off and buy new hubs since the other ones are ugly and faded and kinda stiff anyways. Think I'll do rotors, bearings and hubs for both sides and call it good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 3, 2021 Share Posted July 3, 2021 Well they called me and said they were to the point of drilling them out. They were able to get one out but that was it. I just picked it up and decided I'd work on it. I think I'm at at point where I snap them off and buy new hubs since the other ones are ugly and faded and kinda stiff anyways. Think I'll do rotors, bearings and hubs for both sides and call it good. I had real fits with the Mile Markers I had on one truck. The heads stripped out internally when I tried to back them out. I tried left-handed extractors, to no avail. I finally had to drill them out like you may have to do, but I was able to get new screws from Mile Marker. So, when I put hubs on now I use anti-seize on the threads and the heads of the screws. I sure don't want to have to do that again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weberman Posted July 3, 2021 Author Share Posted July 3, 2021 I had real fits with the Mile Markers I had on one truck. The heads stripped out internally when I tried to back them out. I tried left-handed extractors, to no avail. I finally had to drill them out like you may have to do, but I was able to get new screws from Mile Marker. So, when I put hubs on now I use anti-seize on the threads and the heads of the screws. I sure don't want to have to do that again. I was gonna ask that next. Any preferred brands out there for rotors or hubs? Saw Warns and Warn Premiums on JBG. Didn't know what there was really or if one stood out from the other. Forgot to say, when I picked it up and was taking it home...it did the popping again. It diminished and went to cutting out. Almost home with no tools I put the new module on. I was able to lift up on the module enough to get a new longer bolt for the heat sink in and screw it down to the other hole on the module so it would ground. It literally roared back to life when I started it. Just sounds much meaner/healthy. Took it out did VERY light pops and I think it stopped. Maybe getting some stuff off the plugs from a nice burn finally?? But it was just a few minutes away and I couldn't take it anymore it cutting out every 2 seconds. So either that new Standard is bad, or they're all just that bad. The AC Delco seems to be the way to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 3, 2021 Share Posted July 3, 2021 I was gonna ask that next. Any preferred brands out there for rotors or hubs? Saw Warns and Warn Premiums on JBG. Didn't know what there was really or if one stood out from the other. Forgot to say, when I picked it up and was taking it home...it did the popping again. It diminished and went to cutting out. Almost home with no tools I put the new module on. I was able to lift up on the module enough to get a new longer bolt for the heat sink in and screw it down to the other hole on the module so it would ground. It literally roared back to life when I started it. Just sounds much meaner/healthy. Took it out did VERY light pops and I think it stopped. Maybe getting some stuff off the plugs from a nice burn finally?? But it was just a few minutes away and I couldn't take it anymore it cutting out every 2 seconds. So either that new Standard is bad, or they're all just that bad. The AC Delco seems to be the way to go. Glad to hear a new module is the answer. Hopefully this one will last, once properly installed. I try not to offer brand bias. There are also Superwinch and Mile Marker brands. Probably some others. I have the Warn Premium. They need a 7/8 turn, but offer very positive engagement and metal construction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 3, 2021 Share Posted July 3, 2021 I was gonna ask that next. Any preferred brands out there for rotors or hubs? Saw Warns and Warn Premiums on JBG. Didn't know what there was really or if one stood out from the other. Forgot to say, when I picked it up and was taking it home...it did the popping again. It diminished and went to cutting out. Almost home with no tools I put the new module on. I was able to lift up on the module enough to get a new longer bolt for the heat sink in and screw it down to the other hole on the module so it would ground. It literally roared back to life when I started it. Just sounds much meaner/healthy. Took it out did VERY light pops and I think it stopped. Maybe getting some stuff off the plugs from a nice burn finally?? But it was just a few minutes away and I couldn't take it anymore it cutting out every 2 seconds. So either that new Standard is bad, or they're all just that bad. The AC Delco seems to be the way to go. Yes, glad you got the ignition going. On the hubs, I did like Jim and went with Warn Premiums. I like the almost full turn of engagement as it is positive - Lock or Unlock doesn't change. And the longer turn means they are easier to turn with your fingers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weberman Posted July 5, 2021 Author Share Posted July 5, 2021 Yes, glad you got the ignition going. On the hubs, I did like Jim and went with Warn Premiums. I like the almost full turn of engagement as it is positive - Lock or Unlock doesn't change. And the longer turn means they are easier to turn with your fingers. Is the Timken 4250 the right seal for changing the rotors and everything? I think I've found that and I think a spindle seal. Should I do anything with the spindle while I'm there? I saw another bearing that they called inner that is just a bearing, no race, I'm assuming this is for the spindle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 5, 2021 Share Posted July 5, 2021 Is the Timken 4250 the right seal for changing the rotors and everything? I think I've found that and I think a spindle seal. Should I do anything with the spindle while I'm there? I saw another bearing that they called inner that is just a bearing, no race, I'm assuming this is for the spindle? Yes, I do believe that the Timken 4250 is the right one for your Bronco w/a Dana 44 front diff. It was the correct one for Dad's truck. But your question about bearings confused me. You should have both an inner and outer wheel bearing. There's no reason to replace them if they are in perfect shape, but if they have any etching or roughness they should be replaced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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