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1982 Bronco XLT


Weberman

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Any good shocks for these trucks? Or just pretty well whatever brand favorite is? I tried looking up some KYBs I have on my Superduty but couldn't find rears on the Mononax.

Now that I'm at a point where this thing can move itself with power, I'm about to spend some money. Front end needs new components, might as well do brakes too. Thoughts on brake master replacement? It's just pretty dang rusty. Gonna do a total fluid change as its the blackest fluid I've ever seen. Might as well be the oil I drain out of my diesel.

I have HYB's on my 81 F100 4x2 flare side I got through LMC. I was ordering other parts at the time so why not right LOL

If for my everyday SUV I would check with the local parts store and get a middle of the road price shock.

On an 86 K5 Blazer w/6.2 diesel I ran Rancho's with the factory suspension but I found they were a little to stiff and broke the mounts. Had 1 front mount and the same rear mount 2 time break.

Truck also had 230K on it when I sold it so guess that not bad over 16 years :nabble_anim_confused:

I know guys say go for the newer plastic type master but I like "KISS" and went with the stock master.

I also had to replace the booster at the same time and got both from the local parts store (AZ).

I was also pressed for time as I needed to use the truck so did not want to fuss making it work.

My brake system was drained and parts replaced as part of the rebuild so the fluid was new and clean.

Dave ----

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Any good shocks for these trucks? Or just pretty well whatever brand favorite is? I tried looking up some KYBs I have on my Superduty but couldn't find rears on the Mononax.

Now that I'm at a point where this thing can move itself with power, I'm about to spend some money. Front end needs new components, might as well do brakes too. Thoughts on brake master replacement? It's just pretty dang rusty. Gonna do a total fluid change as its the blackest fluid I've ever seen. Might as well be the oil I drain out of my diesel.

By the way, I forgot to mention that if you have the quad shock option up front you don't want to put 4 of the same shock on there.

When I got Dad's truck there were 4 of the same shocks on and the ride wasn't very good. I just assumed that was because it is a truck. But when I was replacing the shocks I talked to a tech at Monroe and he told me that they are supposed to be different. So I went to the Master Parts Catalog and, sure enough, they are.

I bought their Sensatracs and it really made a nice improvement in the ride.

Quad_Shocks.thumb.jpg.282cfaf24d7fa875ae42e9f6b3e3c2c9.jpg

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Any good shocks for these trucks? Or just pretty well whatever brand favorite is? I tried looking up some KYBs I have on my Superduty but couldn't find rears on the Mononax.

Now that I'm at a point where this thing can move itself with power, I'm about to spend some money. Front end needs new components, might as well do brakes too. Thoughts on brake master replacement? It's just pretty dang rusty. Gonna do a total fluid change as its the blackest fluid I've ever seen. Might as well be the oil I drain out of my diesel.

I have HYB's on my 81 F100 4x2 flare side I got through LMC. I was ordering other parts at the time so why not right LOL

If for my everyday SUV I would check with the local parts store and get a middle of the road price shock.

On an 86 K5 Blazer w/6.2 diesel I ran Rancho's with the factory suspension but I found they were a little to stiff and broke the mounts. Had 1 front mount and the same rear mount 2 time break.

Truck also had 230K on it when I sold it so guess that not bad over 16 years :nabble_anim_confused:

I know guys say go for the newer plastic type master but I like "KISS" and went with the stock master.

I also had to replace the booster at the same time and got both from the local parts store (AZ).

I was also pressed for time as I needed to use the truck so did not want to fuss making it work.

My brake system was drained and parts replaced as part of the rebuild so the fluid was new and clean.

Dave ----

Dave, I don't know what's not stupidly simple about swapping the coiled lines front to back? :nabble_anim_confused:

He said he doesn't like the rusty cast iron master cylinder he's got.

And those tin lids never seemed to seal well for me.

 

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Dave, I don't know what's not stupidly simple about swapping the coiled lines front to back? :nabble_anim_confused:

He said he doesn't like the rusty cast iron master cylinder he's got.

And those tin lids never seemed to seal well for me.

Its just me where I can just un-bolt and bolt back up with out changing other parts like the brake line because of the fitting size. I know some said you can get the fitting off a JY truck but I cant get to JY's.

Yes he did say "rust" and the newer master would not rust LOL.

Yes my master has rusted a little but so far no leaking lid.

It's just me (OCD) I don't like the look of the newer master in the older engine bay.

Dave ----

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Dave, I don't know what's not stupidly simple about swapping the coiled lines front to back? :nabble_anim_confused:

He said he doesn't like the rusty cast iron master cylinder he's got.

And those tin lids never seemed to seal well for me.

Its just me where I can just un-bolt and bolt back up with out changing other parts like the brake line because of the fitting size. I know some said you can get the fitting off a JY truck but I cant get to JY's.

Yes he did say "rust" and the newer master would not rust LOL.

Yes my master has rusted a little but so far no leaking lid.

It's just me (OCD) I don't like the look of the newer master in the older engine bay.

Dave ----

If you buy the right master it comes with the residual pressure valve, and save for swapping front/rear it bolts in. No junk yard needed.

As for the look, maybe you could put a bag over it? :nabble_smiley_evil:

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Dave, I don't know what's not stupidly simple about swapping the coiled lines front to back? :nabble_anim_confused:

He said he doesn't like the rusty cast iron master cylinder he's got.

And those tin lids never seemed to seal well for me.

Its just me where I can just un-bolt and bolt back up with out changing other parts like the brake line because of the fitting size. I know some said you can get the fitting off a JY truck but I cant get to JY's.

Yes he did say "rust" and the newer master would not rust LOL.

Yes my master has rusted a little but so far no leaking lid.

It's just me (OCD) I don't like the look of the newer master in the older engine bay.

Dave ----

Read the threads....

You only miss out on the check valve if you buy a reman from some chain store.

Buy a master from Amazon or RockAuto and it comes with the residual pressure valve.

 

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If you buy the right master it comes with the residual pressure valve, and save for swapping front/rear it bolts in. No junk yard needed.

As for the look, maybe you could put a bag over it? :nabble_smiley_evil:

I found a thread that a 95 was used and it was just switching the lines? May go pick one up from the junkyard since they're $8 there.

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Any '87 on...

Gary used a '95 because that's what year F-450 the Hydroboost came out of.

That's what I thought but saw 91 and 95 mentioned more than others. As long as I take that valve with me it seems.

Went to put the mirrors on from the other truck, worked out good. One of them is pretty stiff so I put some PB on it hoping for the ball to loosen up to where I can move it better. Put the other door panel on for now. Might as well rock it as it was better than the faded red/pink and busted up blue one.

Looked at the transfer case, got some panels and saw a tag through the back window. It says 1345 - 37, so 1345 it is.

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