The Return of Rusty

[Gary Lewis]

When you put the taller springs into the truck, it will more than likely throw off the alignment (mainly camber, could affect others too though). That's why they suggest what I believe is adjustable eccentrics (bushings). Zero degrees would allow you some adjustment; any bushings tailored to a certain degree of alignment would not give you much adjustment.

However, if your front springs are completely sagged out, the 1.5-2" leveling springs may make up for that and you may not need the adjustable bushings. You wouldn't know until the springs were installed and you took it in for the alignment.

Right, Shaun. I'd not put the original bushing in and then take it to the alignment shop. You are likely to have to remove that bushing and order one of these Moog adjustable eccentrics.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Gary- It does indeed,

Includes: Drag Link, Tie Rods, Connecting Sleeves.

Hopefully someone can chime in on the alignment bushings. I'd hate to order the springs and not be able to use them. I certainly think the 1.5 to 2" lift will help as those 31's contact the radius arms at full tilt. Also, no real need to upgrade to 33's as the 31's handle just fine for what I do with Rusty.

Clay, I can't tell you how to determine the alignment bushings on a 150.

But I'm going to make two suggestions.

1) Before you change any of the steering, get under there with a steam Jenny and blast all that crud off.

Maybe you can find someone like a truck repair shop who has one and is willing to do it for you?

While they're great for blasting grease, mud and paint off the undercarriage, this type of live steam power washer will melt and blow all the grease out of any joints, replacing it with water and condensation.

So you're going to want to grease your ball joints after.

2) When you install new springs go ahead and drive Rusty over some trails or something for a few days before getting an alignment.

New springs need too be exercised before they'll settle down to their proper ride height.

There's no point going for an alignment and then have them taking a set.

Doing this driving on dirt is not going to tear up the tires if the alignment is out of whack, and the springs do need to flex.

[ClayJ]

When you put the taller springs into the truck, it will more than likely throw off the alignment (mainly camber, could affect others too though). That's why they suggest what I believe is adjustable eccentrics (bushings). Zero degrees would allow you some adjustment; any bushings tailored to a certain degree of alignment would not give you much adjustment.

However, if your front springs are completely sagged out, the 1.5-2" leveling springs may make up for that and you may not need the adjustable bushings. You wouldn't know until the springs were installed and you took it in for the alignment.

Shaun, I've done some reading and it seems most guys go with the adjustable bushings like you said so I'll add those to the list. Heck, i may as well rebuild the entire front end to include upper and lower ball joints while I'm in this far.

Jim, since I've already started the tear down it looks like I'll be doing the clean up by hand with a non metallic scraper and plenty of brake cleaner. I could get all the components replaced within a few months, budget allowing, and hit some dirt before heading to the alignment shop.

Does anyone have a current discount code for Blue Top Steering?

Thanks for all the advice guys, I really appreciate it. All suggestions are welcome.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Shaun, I've done some reading and it seems most guys go with the adjustable bushings like you said so I'll add those to the list. Heck, i may as well rebuild the entire front end to include upper and lower ball joints while I'm in this far.

Jim, since I've already started the tear down it looks like I'll be doing the clean up by hand with a non metallic scraper and plenty of brake cleaner. I could get all the components replaced within a few months, budget allowing, and hit some dirt before heading to the alignment shop.

Does anyone have a current discount code for Blue Top Steering?

Thanks for all the advice guys, I really appreciate it. All suggestions are welcome.

I didn't realize you were into it already, Clay.

They say "It's only new once" so I guess if you're going in you might as well go deep.

[Gary Lewis]

I didn't realize you were into it already, Clay.

They say "It's only new once" so I guess if you're going in you might as well go deep.

I think you have a solid plan, but I do like the idea of replacing the ball joints while in there. You'll have the top joint busted loose to put the eccentric in, so why not do it "right".

[ClayJ]

I think you have a solid plan, but I do like the idea of replacing the ball joints while in there. You'll have the top joint busted loose to put the eccentric in, so why not do it "right".

Ok gents, I went conservative and sent Rusty's old steering gear and pitman arm into Blue Top Steering for a rebuild as they were out of stock part number 2757 for a few weeks. I must say the rebuilt gear was packaged very well and it sure looks sharp with that blue top. It matches my valve covers perfectly. I left the steering linkage alone besides replacing a dust boot for the center link to pitman arm connection. Just not ready to bite off a complete front end build just yet. Good news is the steering feels great. No need to reinstall the Monroe steering stabilizer I had put on last year. Here's a before and after of Rusty's steering gear.

[grumpin]

Ok gents, I went conservative and sent Rusty's old steering gear and pitman arm into Blue Top Steering for a rebuild as they were out of stock part number 2757 for a few weeks. I must say the rebuilt gear was packaged very well and it sure looks sharp with that blue top. It matches my valve covers perfectly. I left the steering linkage alone besides replacing a dust boot for the center link to pitman arm connection. Just not ready to bite off a complete front end build just yet. Good news is the steering feels great. No need to reinstall the Monroe steering stabilizer I had put on last year. Here's a before and after of Rusty's steering gear.

Looks nice!

[Gary Lewis]

Ok gents, I went conservative and sent Rusty's old steering gear and pitman arm into Blue Top Steering for a rebuild as they were out of stock part number 2757 for a few weeks. I must say the rebuilt gear was packaged very well and it sure looks sharp with that blue top. It matches my valve covers perfectly. I left the steering linkage alone besides replacing a dust boot for the center link to pitman arm connection. Just not ready to bite off a complete front end build just yet. Good news is the steering feels great. No need to reinstall the Monroe steering stabilizer I had put on last year. Here's a before and after of Rusty's steering gear.

Yes, that does look great! I'm glad that it tightened up the steering so well that you don't need the damper. I'd often wondered if that might be the case, and you've proven it.

Sure glad Rusty has found such a good home.

[Machspeed]

Ok gents, I went conservative and sent Rusty's old steering gear and pitman arm into Blue Top Steering for a rebuild as they were out of stock part number 2757 for a few weeks. I must say the rebuilt gear was packaged very well and it sure looks sharp with that blue top. It matches my valve covers perfectly. I left the steering linkage alone besides replacing a dust boot for the center link to pitman arm connection. Just not ready to bite off a complete front end build just yet. Good news is the steering feels great. No need to reinstall the Monroe steering stabilizer I had put on last year. Here's a before and after of Rusty's steering gear.

That looks great, Clay! I've heard great things about Blue Top Steering. Seems there's another outfit with an equal reputation.

I've replace much of the front end on my Truck twice now. The last time I did it, probably a couple years ago, I thought the steering box was probably the issue. However, when I raised the truck and got the wheels off the ground to eval, I realized my front end was shot! In fact, it was scary worn out. I replaced everything with MOOG, the best I could get and if feels good again. Still, it is concerning to me the wear rate of the OEM stuff and the previous stuff I put on.

[FuzzFace2]

That looks great, Clay! I've heard great things about Blue Top Steering. Seems there's another outfit with an equal reputation.

I've replace much of the front end on my Truck twice now. The last time I did it, probably a couple years ago, I thought the steering box was probably the issue. However, when I raised the truck and got the wheels off the ground to eval, I realized my front end was shot! In fact, it was scary worn out. I replaced everything with MOOG, the best I could get and if feels good again. Still, it is concerning to me the wear rate of the OEM stuff and the previous stuff I put on.

I did a Red Head box on my 81 F100 shortly after I got it on the road and it did tighten up the steering.

It was cheaper than the Blue Top box and why I went with it.

I had rebuilt the suspension (poly bushings) before getting it on the road but my issue is the kingpins are to tight, machine shop did the job wrong. Either I have gotten use to it or it is loosing up but it still will not retune to center in a turn.

If I knew my rotors & calipers would fit the ball joint beams I may do a swap as a buddy may have a set once he gets his truck on the road, this virus has slowed down work on his project and help I can give him.

Dave ----