Fuel tank replacement

[hubcityford]

I am getting ready to replace my side mount 16 gallon fuel tank on 1981 f100. While looking, I disconnected the fuel fill line (approx 2” black hose) from metal portion of fuel filling access area. Within that hose appeared to be another hose that may be vent for tank? I didn’t know how to disconnect the inner hose. I just wanted to get advice on what to do and in which order I should do it in to remove (and replace) the tank. Also is there anything else I should do...I plan to get a new sending unit too. Anything I should beware of when purchasing the parts?

Thanks

Jeremy

[myrl883]

It's just a friction fit into the fuel neck. The fuel fills through the small hose and the tank vents between the two hoses. If you need help getting a new one, I've had good luck with www.fillernecksupply.com. I never imagined there was anyone that specialized in them...

[Rembrant]

The plastic tube inside the rubber filler hose is the vent for when you're filling with gas. The plastic tube (approx 3/4" OD) fits into little metal tabs on each end...one inside the neck on the tank, and the top end fits in a little tab that vents into two little openings on each side of the hole where you stick the gas pump nozzle in. I replaced my 16 gallon side tank last year, along with the sending unit and straps. I used Spectra Premium stuff from Rock Auto.

16 Gallon tank p/n F14A (Spectra lists it as being a 16.5 gallon tank).

16 Gallon tank sender p/n FG75A

16 Gallon strap kit p/n ST05

I cut new rubber strips to go between the straps and the tank. It was a rubber gasket material I picked up from a local industrial supply shop.

The tank itself fit just fine. No issues there.

The straps are shipped flat, so it's best to pre-bend them using the old straps as guides.

The sending unit is where I ran into some issues. Two things I recommend with any aftermarket sending unit:

1. Plug it into the connector before you install it in the tank and stroke the float up and down to make sure it reads from empty to full on the gauge.

2. Place the new sender next to the old one and make sure that the stroke of the float is the same as the old one, and that the pickup is in the same location.

I did number one, but not number two. The sender was not reading properly, and I ended up pulling it back out and I adjusted it several times until I got it where I wanted it. I bent the float arm until it read correctly, and when I was finished doing that, the float would travel below the fuel pickup. So, using a tubing bender, I bent the pickup tube so that it reached lower.

The way I have it set up now, it reads full no problem. When it reads empty, there's about 2 gallons left in the tank, and it will run out of gas when there is approximately 1 gallon left in the tank.

I did all this "adjusting" with no bed on the truck, so it was relatively easy that way. Just spend a little bit of time checking the sender to make sure it functions properly.

 

[FuzzFace2]

The plastic tube inside the rubber filler hose is the vent for when you're filling with gas. The plastic tube (approx 3/4" OD) fits into little metal tabs on each end...one inside the neck on the tank, and the top end fits in a little tab that vents into two little openings on each side of the hole where you stick the gas pump nozzle in. I replaced my 16 gallon side tank last year, along with the sending unit and straps. I used Spectra Premium stuff from Rock Auto.

16 Gallon tank p/n F14A (Spectra lists it as being a 16.5 gallon tank).

16 Gallon tank sender p/n FG75A

16 Gallon strap kit p/n ST05

I cut new rubber strips to go between the straps and the tank. It was a rubber gasket material I picked up from a local industrial supply shop.

The tank itself fit just fine. No issues there.

The straps are shipped flat, so it's best to pre-bend them using the old straps as guides.

The sending unit is where I ran into some issues. Two things I recommend with any aftermarket sending unit:

1. Plug it into the connector before you install it in the tank and stroke the float up and down to make sure it reads from empty to full on the gauge.

2. Place the new sender next to the old one and make sure that the stroke of the float is the same as the old one, and that the pickup is in the same location.

I did number one, but not number two. The sender was not reading properly, and I ended up pulling it back out and I adjusted it several times until I got it where I wanted it. I bent the float arm until it read correctly, and when I was finished doing that, the float would travel below the fuel pickup. So, using a tubing bender, I bent the pickup tube so that it reached lower.

The way I have it set up now, it reads full no problem. When it reads empty, there's about 2 gallons left in the tank, and it will run out of gas when there is approximately 1 gallon left in the tank.

I did all this "adjusting" with no bed on the truck, so it was relatively easy that way. Just spend a little bit of time checking the sender to make sure it functions properly.

Here is a picture

This is from my rear tank on what I had to do for the filler & vent,

Dave ----

[hubcityford]

Thanks for all the information. What tips can you give when removing? Lower tank first and unhook everything from tank? Or remove everything away from the tank and then lower?

And to make sure, all that is connected is fill hose and power with 5/16” supply hose connected to sending unit?

Thanks

Jeremy

[Rembrant]

And to make sure, all that is connected is fill hose and power with 5/16” supply hose connected to sending unit?

There is also a small rubber hose going to a vent valve. See the picture below there is a hole just this side of the filler tube neck.

Here is another of mine when I first started taking the truck apart.

I'd make sure that the tank is empty or as empty as possible, and lower it down as much as you can before disconnecting everything. I think the strap bolts are like 2" long, so there is a little travel there.

The electrical connector just pulls off (lift up on it).

The little rubber hose on the vent valve might be hard to remove...I just chopped all that stuff off because I was replacing it anyway.

 

[FuzzFace2]

And to make sure, all that is connected is fill hose and power with 5/16” supply hose connected to sending unit?

There is also a small rubber hose going to a vent valve. See the picture below there is a hole just this side of the filler tube neck.

Here is another of mine when I first started taking the truck apart.

I'd make sure that the tank is empty or as empty as possible, and lower it down as much as you can before disconnecting everything. I think the strap bolts are like 2" long, so there is a little travel there.

The electrical connector just pulls off (lift up on it).

The little rubber hose on the vent valve might be hard to remove...I just chopped all that stuff off because I was replacing it anyway.

When I was at the point of working on the fuel tanks I did not have the bed on the truck.

and being empty it was easy work.

For me I worked from the tank to the doors to make sure all was connected.

I did need to replace the float on the new sender in the rear tank.

That is when I found out it would not be easy (if it could at all?) to drop the tank with the filler hose still hooked to the tank. For me I was able to drop it enough to pop the sender out, swap the floats and put every thing back up in place.

Cant say on the side tank.

As for the inner tube with the hose hooked to the door end you should be able to see the inner tube and fit it into place. On the tank end fit inner to the tank then the outer hose.

It will not be fun I would look into pulling the bed if I had to deal with hooking the tube & hose back up.

Unless you can sneak the hose & tube hooked to the tank between bed & frame then deal with the door end, that maybe easier?

Dave ----

ps I did not want to remove my bed as the truck was just painted and put back together and did not want to maybe scratch the fresh paint. I also did not have any way to lift the flare side bed like you do on a style side bed.

[hubcityford]

And to make sure, all that is connected is fill hose and power with 5/16” supply hose connected to sending unit?

There is also a small rubber hose going to a vent valve. See the picture below there is a hole just this side of the filler tube neck.

Here is another of mine when I first started taking the truck apart.

I'd make sure that the tank is empty or as empty as possible, and lower it down as much as you can before disconnecting everything. I think the strap bolts are like 2" long, so there is a little travel there.

The electrical connector just pulls off (lift up on it).

The little rubber hose on the vent valve might be hard to remove...I just chopped all that stuff off because I was replacing it anyway.

I got my tank off!!! Looking at replacing everything but can’t seem to find the vent valve. I found the bushing but not the part with the 90.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I got my tank off!!! Looking at replacing everything but can’t seem to find the vent valve. I found the bushing but not the part with the 90.

It's also called a rollover valve.

You could follow the tubes back from the charcoal canister, but they were a pretty universal item and shouldn't be hard to find.

https://www.fillernecksupply.com/1973-1977-1978-1990-1994-1995-1996-ford-fuel-tank-vapor-valve-ems-rollover-valve-j53600581-emsv1/

[Rembrant]

I got my tank off!!! Looking at replacing everything but can’t seem to find the vent valve. I found the bushing but not the part with the 90.

I'm pretty sure I reused my old one, but I did replace the rubber grommet for sure, I do remember doing that. I'm pretty sure LMC has the valves, and Rockauto lists them as well, but they are out of stock. Should be this guy below.

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-911-060-Fuel-Tank-Valve/dp/B00OZVOIPI