1G Alternator Harness Question

[FuzzFace2]

Relay Harness makes a HUGE difference! 👍

And I have it installed and it still dims at idle but only when I first start it.

It hardly spins before the motor starts, but just that little it pulls power from the (new) battery.

I think because the ALT is not spinning fast enough and the battery just got power pulled from it is why it happens?

Again with in 2 miles I am on the high way for 30+ miles so the battery has time to recharge and I don't see it happening after that.

Dave ----

[Gary Lewis]

Relay Harness makes a HUGE difference! 👍

And I have it installed and it still dims at idle but only when I first start it.

It hardly spins before the motor starts, but just that little it pulls power from the (new) battery.

I think because the ALT is not spinning fast enough and the battery just got power pulled from it is why it happens?

Again with in 2 miles I am on the high way for 30+ miles so the battery has time to recharge and I don't see it happening after that.

Dave ----

Yes, that's surely why the lights dim just after starting. The battery voltage is down a bit and the regulator is calling for that it to be topped up. But the alternator's output isn't much at idle, so the voltage stays down enough to notice in the lights.

[Jesse3877]

Jesse - Before we get into details, I'd appreciate it if you'd follow the directions given in the email you received, which said "Please go to the New Members Start Here folder, read the guidelines, and then start a new thread/topic in that folder about yourself and your truck."

All members are held to those guidelines. So we ask everyone that comes in to go there, read the guidelines, and then post an introduction in that folder. We cannot force you to read them, but at least having been on the same page as the guidelines there's a reasonable chance that you will. And we've banned members who wouldn't adhere to the guidelines, and we don't want that to happen to you.

Now for the questions. If the new alternator is only capable of generating 70 amps then you don't need to make any changes. The shunt is sized to handle up to 70 amps, so you should be good to go. And I don't see a need to change any of the fuse links. If you aren't adding anything in the truck that pulls more current, then there's no need to change the wiring supplying that current to the truck.

As for the pics, check out the info here: Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's. Basically the issue is that the forum's software, like most forum software, isn't smart enough to read the orientation info your camera put in the metadata in the file. So you need to open the pic in editing software and then save it. The editing software usually reads the metadata and orients the file properly. So if you then save it the orientation is usually correct.

Thanks for the editing software tip. Was able to correct the orientation by editing the picture on my iPad. I added a couple blue arrows. Good to know for future reference mainly because I would be adding pics from iPhone or iPad normally and not from computer. Cheers

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks for the editing software tip. Was able to correct the orientation by editing the picture on my iPad. I added a couple blue arrows. Good to know for future reference mainly because I would be adding pics from iPhone or iPad normally and not from computer. Cheers

Good job, Jesse!

[Rembrant]

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n52288/C2F8E0CF-1885-4A04-9D1D-5BDA7DE1AE4E.jpeg

Jesse, you need a new battery tray! I had to replace mine a couple years ago...what a terrible design they were, with the tray mounted UNDER the fender liner. Those things rusted and fell apart here so fast I've never seen one still intact to this day. Anyway...they are available as are the hold down rods and top brackets, etc.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n52288/C2F8E0CF-1885-4A04-9D1D-5BDA7DE1AE4E.jpeg

Jesse, you need a new battery tray! I had to replace mine a couple years ago...what a terrible design they were, with the tray mounted UNDER the fender liner. Those things rusted and fell apart here so fast I've never seen one still intact to this day. Anyway...they are available as are the hold down rods and top brackets, etc.

You can upgrade to the stay supported Bricknose battery tray as well.

These mount atop the fender liner, handle a group 65-2 battery and use a wedge type 'shoe' for a hold down.

[Rembrant]

You can upgrade to the stay supported Bricknose battery tray as well.

Oh, I didn't know that when I replaced mine. With my truck being a summer cruiser now, the battery tray will last forever, but hanging down there in the salt the originals didn't last very long.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

You can upgrade to the stay supported Bricknose battery tray as well.

Oh, I didn't know that when I replaced mine. With my truck being a summer cruiser now, the battery tray will last forever, but hanging down there in the salt the originals didn't last very long.

I'm fairly certain that this was covered when Gary was considering how to deal with dual batteries in Big Blue.

[Gary Lewis]

I'm fairly certain that this was covered when Gary was considering how to deal with dual batteries in Big Blue.

Yes, we did discuss it. And I posted a pic not long ago. But I'll be covering it in more detail when I do it - hopefully soon.

The later one does look like it'll come too close to the starter relay for my comfort, so I expect to have to relo the relay slightly. Or, replace it with a Bosch-style relay since I'm using a PMGR starter.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Yes, we did discuss it. And I posted a pic not long ago. But I'll be covering it in more detail when I do it - hopefully soon.

The later one does look like it'll come too close to the starter relay for my comfort, so I expect to have to relo the relay slightly. Or, replace it with a Bosch-style relay since I'm using a PMGR starter.

I wonder how different the relay locations are between the two generations?

My battery tray was comfortably away from my starter relay (when I had one)