How to deal with body seam putty and rust?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Ya really need to get down to clean metal, encapsulating rust, is still rust...

the cleaner the better, all rust on mine rest was cut out...

It's not encapsulating anything.

It's burning rust up and turning it to insert iron phosphate.

Just like (similar to) Parkerizing a gun.

[FuzzFace2]

I'm liking that seam sealer in a tube. The windshield stuff requires heating first nearly to 100F. Did you find it at NAPA?

As for the bed liner coat, although that really appeals to me for its durability, it wouldn't work for me as I plan to lay B-Quiet B-Quiet web site down over the paint, so it needs to be smooth in order to adhere well.

The NAPA is a loaded question thing LOL

I first started getting my body supplies from a Car Quest that did body supplies but they sold out to a NAPA that moved down the street and no longer carries body supplies.

I then had to go to the next town over to the NAPA that carries body supplies and where I get all my auto primer & paint from.

I like the tube / gun as you can squirt it into the cracks "sealing" them. I then went over that with the brush on to make it look like factory done sealer.

Thing is if you don't need a full tube how long will it last? I used most of the tube and I am sure by the time I need it again on the next project it will be hard. The brush on, comes in a can, was still good a few months later when I needed to hit some other areas.

3M also makes a Drip Check sealer in a small squeeze tube, like weather strip glue, you can squeeze into cracks and then use the brush on seam sealer.

Might try on line for the SEM sealer if you cant get it local, like Amazon?

Dave ----

[RenoHuskerDu]

I'm liking that seam sealer in a tube. The windshield stuff requires heating first nearly to 100F. Did you find it at NAPA?

As for the bed liner coat, although that really appeals to me for its durability, it wouldn't work for me as I plan to lay B-Quiet B-Quiet web site down over the paint, so it needs to be smooth in order to adhere well.

The NAPA is a loaded question thing LOL

I first started getting my body supplies from a Car Quest that did body supplies but they sold out to a NAPA that moved down the street and no longer carries body supplies.

I then had to go to the next town over to the NAPA that carries body supplies and where I get all my auto primer & paint from.

I like the tube / gun as you can squirt it into the cracks "sealing" them. I then went over that with the brush on to make it look like factory done sealer.

Thing is if you don't need a full tube how long will it last? I used most of the tube and I am sure by the time I need it again on the next project it will be hard. The brush on, comes in a can, was still good a few months later when I needed to hit some other areas.

3M also makes a Drip Check sealer in a small squeeze tube, like weather strip glue, you can squeeze into cracks and then use the brush on seam sealer.

Might try on line for the SEM sealer if you cant get it local, like Amazon?

Dave ----

Is it the collective wisdom to first apply the body seam putty, then paint?

Or vice versa?

I ordered 3M Dynatron Auto Seam Sealer Caulk, 550, Grey, 12 oz caulking gun tube.

Waiting for a couple dry days to proceed, truck is under carport but this cold rain is sideways recently....darn Canadians sent their weather down to TX, lol, or it was AlGore

[ArdWrknTrk]

Is it the collective wisdom to first apply the body seam putty, then paint?

Or vice versa?

I ordered 3M Dynatron Auto Seam Sealer Caulk, 550, Grey, 12 oz caulking gun tube.

Waiting for a couple dry days to proceed, truck is under carport but this cold rain is sideways recently....darn Canadians sent their weather down to TX, lol, or it was AlGore

I try to apply DTM etch primer, then seam sealer, then whatever top coat system over that, once it has dried or cured.

I personally feel that an acid catylized etch epoxy primer over clean metal is going to be the best bond and corrosion protection you can get.

[RenoHuskerDu]

I try to apply DTM etch primer, then seam sealer, then whatever top coat system over that, once it has dried or cured.

I personally feel that an acid catylized etch epoxy primer over clean metal is going to be the best bond and corrosion protection you can get.

Thanks, Jim. I am fighting like mad to suppress my CDO that would drive me to do a perfect job. I have to keep telling myself "you have n trucks, 4 of which are non-running projects, do you really need this work truck to be perfect?" and sometimes I listen to myself. Sometimes.