RenoHuskerDu Posted February 6, 2020 Share Posted February 6, 2020 I'm going to apologize for posting this here, because I'm working on my E99 550, not a Bullnose. But I suspect that the talent pool for this rust issue is deeper here than on FTE, where I have zero replies to my thread so far (https://tinyurl.com/wxntny2). The question is how to best deal with rust that has crept under the body seam putty on the floor, see pic below. Unless I hear contrary advice, I plan to 1. pull up the putty until I get to unrusted metal 2. dose it with phosphoric acid to convert rust 3. reapply some leftover windshield Butyl as putty 4. paint it all with oil-based rust-preventative enamel We have mostly dry weather and absolutely no road salt in Central Texas. Does this appear to be a reasonable course of action to y'all? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 6, 2020 Share Posted February 6, 2020 I'd probably use a hook scraper to pull out as much seam sealer as possible. Then hit it with a wire brush on an angle grinder. Ospho doesn't need to go over rust. It works on clean steel too. I've never tried windshield adhesive as seam sealer. Let us know how it works out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted February 6, 2020 Share Posted February 6, 2020 Does this appear to be a reasonable course of action to y'all? Yes. I like using a knotted cup wheel wherever I can... A regular wire wheel on a drill is great too. I've put thousands of miles on them...lol. Another one that works wonders for removing paint and loose rust is a strip wheel. I've used these with great results as well. Available at Home Depot. You can get them for grinders or drills. Remove loose paint and rust, get it good and dry, then apply Ospho or whatever your rust converter of choice is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny G Posted February 6, 2020 Share Posted February 6, 2020 Does this appear to be a reasonable course of action to y'all? Yes. I like using a knotted cup wheel wherever I can... A regular wire wheel on a drill is great too. I've put thousands of miles on them...lol. Another one that works wonders for removing paint and loose rust is a strip wheel. I've used these with great results as well. Available at Home Depot. You can get them for grinders or drills. Remove loose paint and rust, get it good and dry, then apply Ospho or whatever your rust converter of choice is. I like those knotted cup wheels too, hold up better than the crimped wire ones. Another good one is the flapper disks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 6, 2020 Share Posted February 6, 2020 I like those knotted cup wheels too, hold up better than the crimped wire ones. Another good one is the flapper disks. Flap discs are good for leveling metal but they're doing nothing for rust pitting or down in the pinch weld. Husker du is pulling dum dum out of a seam. He needs to get the loose rust out of there and treat it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RenoHuskerDu Posted February 6, 2020 Author Share Posted February 6, 2020 I like those knotted cup wheels too, hold up better than the crimped wire ones. Another good one is the flapper disks. Indeed, I keep a box of flap disks on hand and use 'em often, but here they wouldn't fill the bill. I'll use hand brushes, and a the other tools shown above. Temp's finally up to 50F so I'm going out now to attack the carpe diem, as it were. You guys up in the freeze belt are laughing at me, I know.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted February 6, 2020 Share Posted February 6, 2020 I'm going to apologize for posting this here, because I'm working on my E99 550, not a Bullnose. But I suspect that the talent pool for this rust issue is deeper here than on FTE, where I have zero replies to my thread so far (https://tinyurl.com/wxntny2). The question is how to best deal with rust that has crept under the body seam putty on the floor, see pic below. Unless I hear contrary advice, I plan to 1. pull up the putty until I get to unrusted metal 2. dose it with phosphoric acid to convert rust 3. apply brush on seam sealer - SEM makes a good one I used on my project 4. paint it all with oil-based rust-preventative enamel We have mostly dry weather and absolutely no road salt in Central Texas. Does this appear to be a reasonable course of action to y'all? FRfloor.jpg I FIXED it for you The first coat of seam sealer was from a tube and caulk gun. Let set up a day or so and used the brush on over the top of the tube stuff. I did this top & bottom of the floors, rockers, etc. Then did 2 coats of Duplicolor roll on bed linertop & bottom Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RenoHuskerDu Posted February 7, 2020 Author Share Posted February 7, 2020 I'm going to apologize for posting this here, because I'm working on my E99 550, not a Bullnose. But I suspect that the talent pool for this rust issue is deeper here than on FTE, where I have zero replies to my thread so far (https://tinyurl.com/wxntny2). The question is how to best deal with rust that has crept under the body seam putty on the floor, see pic below. Unless I hear contrary advice, I plan to 1. pull up the putty until I get to unrusted metal 2. dose it with phosphoric acid to convert rust 3. apply brush on seam sealer - SEM makes a good one I used on my project 4. paint it all with oil-based rust-preventative enamel We have mostly dry weather and absolutely no road salt in Central Texas. Does this appear to be a reasonable course of action to y'all? FRfloor.jpg I FIXED it for you The first coat of seam sealer was from a tube and caulk gun. Let set up a day or so and used the brush on over the top of the tube stuff. I did this top & bottom of the floors, rockers, etc. Then did 2 coats of Duplicolor roll on bed linertop & bottom Dave ---- I'm liking that seam sealer in a tube. The windshield stuff requires heating first nearly to 100F. Did you find it at NAPA? As for the bed liner coat, although that really appeals to me for its durability, it wouldn't work for me as I plan to lay B-Quiet B-Quiet web site down over the paint, so it needs to be smooth in order to adhere well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RenoHuskerDu Posted February 7, 2020 Author Share Posted February 7, 2020 I'm liking that seam sealer in a tube. The windshield stuff requires heating first nearly to 100F. Did you find it at NAPA? As for the bed liner coat, although that really appeals to me for its durability, it wouldn't work for me as I plan to lay B-Quiet B-Quiet web site down over the paint, so it needs to be smooth in order to adhere well. Goes on like water, easy to use. I'm pleasantly surprised with its low price too, $25/gallon, probably because the cattle ranchers use it a lot for pipe fence, bale feeders, etc. This is cattle country. I'm checking my local NAPA to see if they have body seam putty in a tube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reamer Posted February 7, 2020 Share Posted February 7, 2020 Goes on like water, easy to use. I'm pleasantly surprised with its low price too, $25/gallon, probably because the cattle ranchers use it a lot for pipe fence, bale feeders, etc. This is cattle country. I'm checking my local NAPA to see if they have body seam putty in a tube. Ya really need to get down to clean metal, encapsulating rust, is still rust... the cleaner the better, all rust on mine rest was cut out... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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