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84 F250 429 Swap


84FS460

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I was just wondering if anyone has installed a 429 into a 80 to 86 pickup before? The reason why I'm asking is I bought a 84 F250 4x4 with a 460 and a T19 transmission and I also bought a while ago a 70 Tbird that needs a lot of work except for the 429 engine is already rebuilt and isn't broken in yet and the former owner claims has an original 429CJ camshaft in it that was ordered from a Ford dealership a long time ago. The 429 should drop in with little trouble but my question is the clutch set up mainly the pilot bearing, should I just use one for a factory 429 4spd setup like for a 70 Torino GT which might work from the research I've done or will it be some oddball pilot bearing? If anyone has done this before your help will be great.
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A Thunderbird with a manual?

Do you intend to put that engine back in the car at some point?

Having a big spreadbore on a truck might be good!

L&L are the only ones making a zero balance flywheel that will fit the '84's hydraulic bell (that I know)

Gary has all the adapter drawings, and iirc the pilot bearing numbers too.

Be mindful that the alternator and power steering pump are going to foul the 4x4 front cross member.

Good luck, and have fun! :nabble_smiley_good:

 

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A Thunderbird with a manual?

Do you intend to put that engine back in the car at some point?

Having a big spreadbore on a truck might be good!

L&L are the only ones making a zero balance flywheel that will fit the '84's hydraulic bell (that I know)

Gary has all the adapter drawings, and iirc the pilot bearing numbers too.

Be mindful that the alternator and power steering pump are going to foul the 4x4 front cross member.

Good luck, and have fun! :nabble_smiley_good:

Also check the oil pan sump if in the right place as that may kill this swap.

Dave ----

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A Thunderbird with a manual?

Do you intend to put that engine back in the car at some point?

Having a big spreadbore on a truck might be good!

L&L are the only ones making a zero balance flywheel that will fit the '84's hydraulic bell (that I know)

Gary has all the adapter drawings, and iirc the pilot bearing numbers too.

Be mindful that the alternator and power steering pump are going to foul the 4x4 front cross member.

Good luck, and have fun! :nabble_smiley_good:

Sounds like an interesting project.

But I'm not sure what you mean, Jim, about adapter drawings.

On the pilot bearing, this site says "Lets not forget the crank pilots....early cranks have the 1.850 and later are 1.375. This applies to both 429 and 460. Not sure when they quit using the 1.850....1970??? So here's what I see from previous years, with "A" being Ford, "B" being Falcon, and "F" being Mustang.

Early_Pilot_Bearings.thumb.jpg.b8797e4ddd5bb77d2a37bd8e6bc64a25.jpg

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Sounds like an interesting project.

But I'm not sure what you mean, Jim, about adapter drawings.

On the pilot bearing, this site says "Lets not forget the crank pilots....early cranks have the 1.850 and later are 1.375. This applies to both 429 and 460. Not sure when they quit using the 1.850....1970??? So here's what I see from previous years, with "A" being Ford, "B" being Falcon, and "F" being Mustang.

You included pilot bearings when you were figuring out how to put a 460 flywheel on a 335.

So the dimensions should be there.

Edit: I mentioned front dress because I *think* the truck crank pulley is far different from the early (pre D2 block) car pulley.

I know I couldn't get the Torino alternator bracket to line up on my truck.

The pre '79 (internal balance) 385's had a straight spacer behind the harmonic damper, but I don't have details on the snout length of those cranks v/s those of the external balance engines.

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You included pilot bearings when you were figuring out how to put a 460 flywheel on a 335.

So the dimensions should be there.

Edit: I mentioned front dress because I *think* the truck crank pulley is far different from the early (pre D2 block) car pulley.

I know I couldn't get the Torino alternator bracket to line up on my truck.

The pre '79 (internal balance) 385's had a straight spacer behind the harmonic damper, but I don't have details on the snout length of those cranks v/s those of the external balance engines.

It must be nice to have a memory. I think I used to have one, but I really don't remember. :nabble_smiley_sad:

On the pulley, you are saying that the "hatchet" was just a spacer with no offset weight. Right? If so, could a hatchet be cut and machined down to put the pulley where it should be - assuming the crankshaft snouts are the same 'tween a 429 and a 460? (I have a hatchet laying on the bench that I don't know what to do with.)

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It must be nice to have a memory. I think I used to have one, but I really don't remember. :nabble_smiley_sad:

On the pulley, you are saying that the "hatchet" was just a spacer with no offset weight. Right? If so, could a hatchet be cut and machined down to put the pulley where it should be - assuming the crankshaft snouts are the same 'tween a 429 and a 460? (I have a hatchet laying on the bench that I don't know what to do with.)

Why would you do that?

You have a lathe. Just bore a piece of stock.

It obviously doesn't need to be keyed, just polished where the FMS rides.

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Why would you do that?

You have a lathe. Just bore a piece of stock.

It obviously doesn't need to be keyed, just polished where the FMS rides.

It would be lots easier to saw the weight off and then trim the excess down smooth than it is to find the right piece, bore it to size, trim the length to size, and turn the seal surface to size. In the case of the weight, there's really no critical measurements, just turn it down until you are cutting all the way around to ensure it is balanced. But in the case of starting from scratch there are at least three critical measurements: Length; bore; seal surface.

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It would be lots easier to saw the weight off and then trim the excess down smooth than it is to find the right piece, bore it to size, trim the length to size, and turn the seal surface to size. In the case of the weight, there's really no critical measurements, just turn it down until you are cutting all the way around to ensure it is balanced. But in the case of starting from scratch there are at least three critical measurements: Length; bore; seal surface.

Like I said, I'm not sure if the spacer lengths differ, or only the pulley offset.

I just know that the car brackets don't put the front dress in the right plane to line up with the (external balance) truck crank pulley.

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