ArdWrknTrk Posted January 11, 2020 Share Posted January 11, 2020 Yes sir thank you for the advice, I can live without swapping the dash and interior, but I will give it a try to install it. Main concern will be if the front clip will work, I want to keep the front bumper and everything else associated with the bull nose front clip, also will my 82 doors work and will the body lines match up from tip to tail. I am really trying to get the answers pinned down before I start the tear down process. I am very OCD when it comes to a restoration, because I want everything to look like it rolled off the assembly line at the factory. With a bunch of modifications, but looks like it was factory installed. Once I start I will make sure to post pictures and notes with information to be able to help the next person. Big things to come on this build. Clay, I can offer this. The front fenders of the bullnose attach to the rocker differently. You'll have to cut off the tab and tack weld a wellnut or something in place. The front fenders of the bricknose have round arches, where the bullnose are squared on top. The radiator supports are completely different. (Headlights, radiator mounting) The doors of the bricknose have a wider divider between the vent window and the door glass. One track will not fit the other. In the lower rear edge of the door jamb where is a plunger for the seatbelt retractor of the bricknose. So, doors will swap one way, 87> onto an <-'86 truck but not the other way. Shaun has already pointed out the difference in pedal,supports and dash mounting... The clusters also have far different gauges. These are not cross compatible. So keep that in mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
82 PIT BULLNOSE Posted January 11, 2020 Author Share Posted January 11, 2020 I know he ask only 2 basic questions, sometimes it the questions not asked that kills a project On the doors I remember reading something about the door and the jambs being a little different at the rear bottom of the opening. I did not want him to get the dash all swapped in with the doors off as it is easier to work on it that way, and then find out the doors don't close because they hit at the bottom rear of the opening. Wont that 12 valve be too heavy for the smaller trucks suspensions? This must be out od a newer F800 truck then as I think the larger truck older diesels were Cats or Detroit Diesels. So when do we see a post on this project Dave ---- yes you are correct the Ford medium dutys did come with Cats and Detroits but back in the 90's and up to the early 2000's Ford medium dutys had 5.9 Cummins in them as well, then around 2003-2005 no more Cummins engine option. Then i believe starting back in 2009 or 2010 Ford Medium dutys powertrain was a 6.7 Cummins engine and Allison Transmission, and that engine and transmission combination ended in 2015. Because starting in 2016 and moving forward Ford medium dutys started running the 6.7 power stroke and there 6 speed torque shift. Also one thing to remember on the 2016 & up medium dutys with the 6.7 power stroke is detuned to a 270 hp, 300 hp, and 330 hp depending on what option code you order. And all F-350, F-450, and F-550 Cab and Chassis are detuned to 330 hp. That is only on Cab and Chassis. But on the the F-350 pick up and F-450 pickup they are not detuned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
82 PIT BULLNOSE Posted January 11, 2020 Author Share Posted January 11, 2020 Alright, so if anybody remembers, yours truly stuck a bullnose dash and front clip on a bricknose cab. So here's my thoughts, from somebody who has done everything you're planning on doing. #1, it's almost not worth it. But if you already have the cab, let's move on to #2. -The front clip from your 82 will bolt on, aside from the aforementioned difference in the lower fender mounting point. Also, I noticed that the upper two bolts for the fenders are in a different spot between bullnose and bricknose. It's a pretty small difference, and you can work around it, but don't bother trying to align the fenders using the old stripped paint under the bolts on the fenders, it won't match up. -Dash. The dash will not bolt up on the four corners. You would have to make and weld in your own mounts to adapt the older dash into the newer cab. The support bars in the center of the dash however, do bolt up. But that's not enough to mount the dash. -E-brake. I've read that the E-brake is different between bullnose and bricknose cabs. I couldn't find a difference, so I kept the bricknose e-brake. -Upper Pedal mount. The top two bolts on your brake/clutch pedal assembly from the 82 will not bolt up to the bricknose cab. You will have to modify the mount/support (welded to the cab) to adapt the older pedals, or do like I did and drill out the spot welds from both cabs and weld the 82 support in the bricknose cab. -Wiring. The hole for the wiring is in a different spot on the driver's side. The bricknose uses a multi-section harness on the driver's side, the bullnose uses a one piece harness that passes through the firewall, into the cab, and then back out the other side of the firewall. The existing hole from the bricknose cab on the driver's side is too low and will interfere with mounting the fuse box. The passenger side hole will need to be drilled into the firewall. Also, if you have any computer wiring going through the firewall, you'll need to drill that hole as it won't exist in the bricknose firewall. Any existing wiring in the bricknose cab (such as cab lights or the dome/cargo light harness will not play with the bullnose harness since the plugs are different. -Doors. They will bolt up and work just fine, my 1990 cab is running bullnose doors. -If your 82 cab has the B-pillar trim, you will have to drill the holes for that, especially for the sections of trim that go above the door. That's all I can think of right now. If you have any other questions, I'll be monitoring the thread. Shaun- Thank you for you help and advice on this cab swap. I look forward to any more advice and help you may have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 11, 2020 Share Posted January 11, 2020 Shaun- Thank you for you help and advice on this cab swap. I look forward to any more advice and help you may have. This is going to be interesting! I kinda wish I was down there to help (and learn, a lot) This is the time too! Midsummer hill country Texas is fine but too damn hot for this cranky old yankee to be busting my butt under a truck. How do you plan the engine cradle? How much does that combo weigh, and what do you use for springs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted January 11, 2020 Share Posted January 11, 2020 Shaun- Thank you for you help and advice on this cab swap. I look forward to any more advice and help you may have. I will add some from my experience in installing a bricknose front clip on a bullnose cab and frame. Bumper, you are keeping the bumper, no problem. Front fenders, bullnose fenders are held on at the rear by two bolts up into the cab bottom rail, bricknose and aeronose by a single bolt into a clipnut. Seat belts, bullnose seat belt retractors mount up high, almost at the roofline, lower attachment is on the floor or in the trough behind the trim, bricknose and aeronose seat belt retractors are low down and "bulge" out on the B post (back of door). The inner door stamping has a recess for this at the back. Steering column has been discussed, but, if you can get the mounting plate for the bricknose, it can be swapped to your column. Dash, mostly covered, but two items, VIN number will need to be transferred from the old cab, and it is in a different location on the bullnose, roughly 2" further in than the later trucks. Wiring, loads of fun. A bullnose front harness is a single continuous assembly from left headlight, through the inside, across the dash, back out on the right side and to the battery and right headlight. Bricknose has a split harness, cab is separate from underhood and there is a round bolt on connector through the firewall on the left side that connects the two, engine connections are different, transmission and chassis harness also different and the bricknose front harness changed several times between 1987-1991. Door glass, all of the innards of the doors can be swapped, all the mountings are the same, power doors can be changed to manual and vice versa. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
82 PIT BULLNOSE Posted January 11, 2020 Author Share Posted January 11, 2020 Alright, so if anybody remembers, yours truly stuck a bullnose dash and front clip on a bricknose cab. So here's my thoughts, from somebody who has done everything you're planning on doing. #1, it's almost not worth it. But if you already have the cab, let's move on to #2. -The front clip from your 82 will bolt on, aside from the aforementioned difference in the lower fender mounting point. Also, I noticed that the upper two bolts for the fenders are in a different spot between bullnose and bricknose. It's a pretty small difference, and you can work around it, but don't bother trying to align the fenders using the old stripped paint under the bolts on the fenders, it won't match up. -Dash. The dash will not bolt up on the four corners. You would have to make and weld in your own mounts to adapt the older dash into the newer cab. The support bars in the center of the dash however, do bolt up. But that's not enough to mount the dash. -E-brake. I've read that the E-brake is different between bullnose and bricknose cabs. I couldn't find a difference, so I kept the bricknose e-brake. -Upper Pedal mount. The top two bolts on your brake/clutch pedal assembly from the 82 will not bolt up to the bricknose cab. You will have to modify the mount/support (welded to the cab) to adapt the older pedals, or do like I did and drill out the spot welds from both cabs and weld the 82 support in the bricknose cab. -Wiring. The hole for the wiring is in a different spot on the driver's side. The bricknose uses a multi-section harness on the driver's side, the bullnose uses a one piece harness that passes through the firewall, into the cab, and then back out the other side of the firewall. The existing hole from the bricknose cab on the driver's side is too low and will interfere with mounting the fuse box. The passenger side hole will need to be drilled into the firewall. Also, if you have any computer wiring going through the firewall, you'll need to drill that hole as it won't exist in the bricknose firewall. Any existing wiring in the bricknose cab (such as cab lights or the dome/cargo light harness will not play with the bullnose harness since the plugs are different. -Doors. They will bolt up and work just fine, my 1990 cab is running bullnose doors. -If your 82 cab has the B-pillar trim, you will have to drill the holes for that, especially for the sections of trim that go above the door. That's all I can think of right now. If you have any other questions, I'll be monitoring the thread. Shaun- My truck is a 4x4 with an automatic transmission. The cab I purchased to swap is a 4x4 cab but with a manual shift. Which is great because I wanted to have a floor shift automatic. Do you think there will be any issues with this? I have done floor shifters on cars and 2wd trucks but never put a floor shifter in a 4wd. Basically I am asking will the 4x4 shifter be an issue where it is located or will I have to relocate it. I plan on putting the automatic floor shifter where the manual shifter would go. Please advise. Thanks Clay P.S. anyone can jump in on this if they have some insight on this plan of action Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted January 11, 2020 Share Posted January 11, 2020 Shaun- My truck is a 4x4 with an automatic transmission. The cab I purchased to swap is a 4x4 cab but with a manual shift. Which is great because I wanted to have a floor shift automatic. Do you think there will be any issues with this? I have done floor shifters on cars and 2wd trucks but never put a floor shifter in a 4wd. Basically I am asking will the 4x4 shifter be an issue where it is located or will I have to relocate it. I plan on putting the automatic floor shifter where the manual shifter would go. Please advise. Thanks Clay P.S. anyone can jump in on this if they have some insight on this plan of action Cant say if the added auto shifter will hit the 4x4 shifter or not but my under standing is the auto trucks did not have the floor hump you could remove to access the transmission like the stick trucks have. My 81 4x2 with T18 and you can see the part you can remove. I could also be wrong. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 11, 2020 Share Posted January 11, 2020 Shaun- My truck is a 4x4 with an automatic transmission. The cab I purchased to swap is a 4x4 cab but with a manual shift. Which is great because I wanted to have a floor shift automatic. Do you think there will be any issues with this? I have done floor shifters on cars and 2wd trucks but never put a floor shifter in a 4wd. Basically I am asking will the 4x4 shifter be an issue where it is located or will I have to relocate it. I plan on putting the automatic floor shifter where the manual shifter would go. Please advise. Thanks Clay P.S. anyone can jump in on this if they have some insight on this plan of action Cant say if the added auto shifter will hit the 4x4 shifter or not but my under standing is the auto trucks did not have the floor hump you could remove to access the transmission like the stick trucks have. My 81 4x2 with T18 and you can see the part you can remove. I could also be wrong. Dave ---- Dave, he bought a manual cab. His floor mat might not fit.... Clay, three things, depending on the cab you bought. (So you might check the VIN for year) The E4OD is tall! And needs room that some trucks don't have. The Zf-5 trucks have a raised and elongated floor panel. Gary documented this in his dad's truck build. 2) A some point early in the Bricknose era the transfer case shifter moved from on top of the transmission tunnel to the side. The linkages are not the same. AMHIK! My Zf came from a 1990 truck. 3) if your cab is Bricknose, the hood will line up fine, AND you get the more desirable polka dot cowl. It's not until the Aeronose trucks that the hood shape changed up there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salans7 Posted January 11, 2020 Share Posted January 11, 2020 Dave, he bought a manual cab. His floor mat might not fit.... Clay, three things, depending on the cab you bought. (So you might check the VIN for year) The E4OD is tall! And needs room that some trucks don't have. The Zf-5 trucks have a raised and elongated floor panel. Gary documented this in his dad's truck build. 2) A some point early in the Bricknose era the transfer case shifter moved from on top of the transmission tunnel to the side. The linkages are not the same. AMHIK! My Zf came from a 1990 truck. 3) if your cab is Bricknose, the hood will line up fine, AND you get the more desirable polka dot cowl. It's not until the Aeronose trucks that the hood shape changed up there. Thanks Bill for addressing what I forgot. The auto floor shifter will be fine if you put it where a manual shifter would go, and I doubt it will interfere with the transfer case shifter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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