Norcalbullnose Posted January 1, 2020 Author Share Posted January 1, 2020 Can't mess it up with bigger cables. You've probably put the little red/light blue wire on the wrong terminal on the relay/solenoid. The later relays have two pins coming out, one for the r/lb wire and one for fuel pump control. The r/lb wire usually goes on the front of the two smaller terminals. Another possibility is that you didn't get the relay grounded to the fender. It grounds through the screws that hold it on, so is they aren't tight it won't work. And another is that you left one of the fuse links off. But if things are working in the truck that didn't use to, then it sounds like you got most of them on. Thank you! Man I wish I wouldve seen that diagram sooner as mine has nothing for the pink/blk wire, I never had it connected. I'll give an update tomorrow once I get this straightened out and do what you all said. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Wyatt Posted January 1, 2020 Share Posted January 1, 2020 My starter was $60 delivered iirc. From DB Electrical. They are on eBay and Amazon. One year warranty. Be sure to choose between manual and automatic. They have different throwouts. The only other thing you need is a piece of 10 or 12Ga primary wire and two eyelets. The old starter cable goes to the battery side of the relay and the new trigger wire goes from the switched side (where the cable was) to the solenoid on the starter. Do NOT leave the starter cable switched and just jumper it to the solenoid. I just checked them out and wow what a great price. The current price of $47.46 and free shipping plus brand new beats the local price of $88.89 and $25.00 core charge for rebuilt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 1, 2020 Share Posted January 1, 2020 Thank you! Man I wish I wouldve seen that diagram sooner as mine has nothing for the pink/blk wire, I never had it connected. I'll give an update tomorrow once I get this straightened out and do what you all said. That wire connected to 'I' is only for trucks with electric fuel pumps to prime the carburetor. (and in some cases it goes to the retard function of your DSII module) The red/blue wire connects to the 'S' terminal, and closes the starter relay. Coming from the neutral safety switch. Starter cable goes to one stud. Battery cable and everything else goes to the other... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 1, 2020 Share Posted January 1, 2020 I just checked them out and wow what a great price. The current price of $47.46 and free shipping plus brand new beats the local price of $88.89 and $25.00 core charge for rebuilt. Frank, it is a good price and mine lasted from 2011 until a few weeks ago when the nosecone bushing had worn and it didn't want to engage the flywheel. Of course, there was no core charge, so I kept the old one around for when it stopped working I could walk in with my 'core' and didn't have to go back to the store. The starter motor itself was fine so I swapped the nosecone out of my spare core and was done for the cost of a can of electrical cleaner and a *dab of grease. Even the brushes looked new, though I did clean the commutator with scotchbrite. *autocorrect Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 1, 2020 Share Posted January 1, 2020 I just checked them out and wow what a great price. The current price of $47.46 and free shipping plus brand new beats the local price of $88.89 and $25.00 core charge for rebuilt. They're in Tennessee, like you! So although you're not supporting factory jobs, you are putting food on the table for warehouse workers close by. Win,win. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted January 1, 2020 Share Posted January 1, 2020 That wire connected to 'I' is only for trucks with electric fuel pumps to prime the carburetor. (and in some cases it goes to the retard function of your DSII module) The red/blue wire connects to the 'S' terminal, and closes the starter relay. Coming from the neutral safety switch. Starter cable goes to one stud. Battery cable and everything else goes to the other... In the old days of points that "I" (IGN) sent full 12 volts to the points / coil for a hotter spark when starting as it is only hot when the relay / solenoid is passing power. Dave ----Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 1, 2020 Share Posted January 1, 2020 That wire connected to 'I' is only for trucks with electric fuel pumps to prime the carburetor. (and in some cases it goes to the retard function of your DSII module) The red/blue wire connects to the 'S' terminal, and closes the starter relay. Coming from the neutral safety switch. Starter cable goes to one stud. Battery cable and everything else goes to the other... In the old days of points that "I" (IGN) sent full 12 volts to the points / coil for a hotter spark when starting as it is only hot when the relay / solenoid is passing power. Dave ---- Right. And it triggers spark retard in early DSII systems (as well as bypassing the resistor) With Hot Fuel Handling 460 trucks it bypasses all safeties and runs the fuel pump while cranking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norcalbullnose Posted January 1, 2020 Author Share Posted January 1, 2020 this is how I currently have it set up, I followed what yall said. When I go to crank still nothin but the parking brake light dims when I crank so is it attempting to send power and its just not going through or bad relay maybe? I really am stumped here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 1, 2020 Share Posted January 1, 2020 this is how I currently have it set up, I followed what yall said. When I go to crank still nothin but the parking brake light dims when I crank so is it attempting to send power and its just not going through or bad relay maybe? I really am stumped here That's kinda hard to get my head around, so let me rotate it. Ok, maybe now, although the orientation of the relay looks basically 1/2 turn off of where I'm used to it. Have you tried moving the small wires to the other small terminal? Or, better yet, remove the small wire that is not red/lb and see what that does. And if it doesn't work then move the r/lb wire to the other small terminal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norcalbullnose Posted January 1, 2020 Author Share Posted January 1, 2020 That's kinda hard to get my head around, so let me rotate it. Ok, maybe now, although the orientation of the relay looks basically 1/2 turn off of where I'm used to it. Have you tried moving the small wires to the other small terminal? Or, better yet, remove the small wire that is not red/lb and see what that does. And if it doesn't work then move the r/lb wire to the other small terminal. Sorry about that I wasnt sure how to properly upload a picture. It's a little wacky just to prevent me from drilling new holes. I went ahead and put the red/lb wire on the I instead of the s and still nothing. I just get a dimming parking brake light. Could it be something else not having to do with the relay? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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