Flareside rear mounted gas tank

[Frogger2662]

I am looking into installing a fuel tank under the bed behind the differential.

Fuel filler flush mounted in the wooden bed.

The fuel tank i am looking at has a flange all the way around it,

Anything wrong with fabbing up some crossmembers and bolting the tank in?

[Rembrant]

I am looking into installing a fuel tank under the bed behind the differetial.

Fuel filler flush mounted in the wooden bed.

The fuel tank i am looking at has a flange all the way around it,

Anything wrong with fabbing up some crossmembers and bolting the tank in?

A couple members have done this. Dave for certain, and I believe Ken as well. You'll have lots of help on here for this.

[FuzzFace2]

I am looking into installing a fuel tank under the bed behind the differetial.

Fuel filler flush mounted in the wooden bed.

The fuel tank i am looking at has a flange all the way around it,

Anything wrong with fabbing up some crossmembers and bolting the tank in?

A couple members have done this. Dave for certain, and I believe Ken as well. You'll have lots of help on here for this.

Nope cant be done ... no way no how

Why go reinventing the wheel when Ford has all the parts you will need to make this a bolt in?

I used all the rear tank parts from a long bed style side truck that had duel tanks.

Be sides the rear tank & straps you will need the bolt in cross member just in front of the rear tank as that is what the straps bolt to.

I also used the duel tank switching valve bolted to the left frame rail and the metal line from rear tank to it.

I also used all the duel trucks evap metal lines up to and including the 2 canisters under the battery just like the factory duel truck had. I get no gas smell at all and I have it parked in my garage most of the time.

Now what is the hard part is the duel tank wiring & switch if you want to stay factory stock looking.

The duel tank wiring from switch to the valve on the frame is all in the trucks harness.

Again I used everything (harnesses) from my parts truck as a whole so it looks factory stock.

Now you can get the fuel switch and bolt it to the HVAC control and cut the slot for the switch handle it just will not say front or rear tank on it.

Then you would need to run wires to the switch valve and rear sender and wire up the switch to work the switch valve & fuel gauge for both tanks. It can be done as I did it on a 76 E350 van when I added a 2nd tank.

You can see the factory duel tank switch to the right of the HVAC controls.

As you can see I also added the filler door to the fender to look like the factory did it.

I used part of the fender & door from another flare side and glassed it to my fender.

I used some parts from that flare the door came from and the style side to make it work.

I do have more pictures on my site of the filler hose hook up and glassing

Dave ----

[old55pete]

You guys beat me to it. These parts, including the tank are sold on LMC truck. Makes it a couple of hour job instead of spending all day fabing up parts.

[FuzzFace2]

You guys beat me to it. These parts, including the tank are sold on LMC truck. Makes it a couple of hour job instead of spending all day fabing up parts.

The thing is even for the easy system with the 3 port valve like my 81 the wiring for duel tanks is part of the trucks wiring harness.

Yes you could run your own wires for this but what if you have a EFI and that valve also does the gauge switching, try running wires for that.

As for rear tank parts I think you would do better (cheaper) going with used parts. Any truck with a rear tank will work. You will also need the cross member just in front of the tank as it is different at least on the non-rear tank flare sides.

You get the filler neck & door. Oh the doors are different between style sides & flare sides, different sizes & curves.

Then you have the fuel and the evap lines you could also use.

Then again what ever makes your boat float

Dave ----

[myrl883]

You guys beat me to it. These parts, including the tank are sold on LMC truck. Makes it a couple of hour job instead of spending all day fabing up parts.

The thing is even for the easy system with the 3 port valve like my 81 the wiring for duel tanks is part of the trucks wiring harness.

Yes you could run your own wires for this but what if you have a EFI and that valve also does the gauge switching, try running wires for that.

As for rear tank parts I think you would do better (cheaper) going with used parts. Any truck with a rear tank will work. You will also need the cross member just in front of the tank as it is different at least on the non-rear tank flare sides.

You get the filler neck & door. Oh the doors are different between style sides & flare sides, different sizes & curves.

Then you have the fuel and the evap lines you could also use.

Then again what ever makes your boat float

Dave ----

Mine was easier! No added wiring, switching valve, evap can, or anything else. I installed a 32 gallon Bronco tank and extend the fuel lines. I had a local body shop move my fuel door from the front to the rear of the fender. Done! If that isn't enough, you can get an aftermarket 38 gallon tank.

[Rembrant]

Mine was easier! No added wiring, switching valve, evap can, or anything else. I installed a 32 gallon Bronco tank and extend the fuel lines. I had a local body shop move my fuel door from the front to the rear of the fender. Done! If that isn't enough, you can get an aftermarket 38 gallon tank.

Flareside rear mounted tank? I saw this truck on Facebook a couple weeks ago...does it belong to somebody on here?