First Ford

[hubcityford]

I’m in Hattiesburg, MS and decided to get my wife’s grandfather’s truck running (hopefully). I can change oil, battery, etc but never tried anything like this. It was last driven maybe 15 yrs ago. Nothing was wrong with it, just got forgotten and neglected. It has been sitting in her uncle’s garage. Bought a Haynes book and just starting my research. Trying to determine how to best approach this project. Any help, advice, warnings, prayers would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

[FuzzFace2]

Welcome to the Bullnose Forum.

You will find some of us are on both forums, we just cant get enough Bullnose information

You will also get good information here as well so I will not copy & past my reply just yet LOL

Dave ----

[Rembrant]

Welcome aboard Hubcity,

That's a great lookin' project. I started with one just like it a little over 2 years ago, but it was already running.

If you get a chance, post up a picture of the certification label so that we can see what exactly you have there. It will be on door jamb on the cab, right next to the striker post where the driver's door latches when it closes. That label will have all of the information on the truck.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Welcome aboard Hubcity,

That's a great lookin' project. I started with one just like it a little over 2 years ago, but it was already running.

If you get a chance, post up a picture of the certification label so that we can see what exactly you have there. It will be on door jamb on the cab, right next to the striker post where the driver's door latches when it closes. That label will have all of the information on the truck.

Or, if you'd like to decode your own you can do so here: Documentation/Specifications/Certification Label.

[hubcityford]

Welcome aboard Hubcity,

That's a great lookin' project. I started with one just like it a little over 2 years ago, but it was already running.

If you get a chance, post up a picture of the certification label so that we can see what exactly you have there. It will be on door jamb on the cab, right next to the striker post where the driver's door latches when it closes. That label will have all of the information on the truck.

[Rembrant]

OK...so the truck was originally equipped with the small 255 cubic inch V8, a C4 auto trans, and 2.75 rear end. Do you know if the truck is all still original? The "D" engine code is the 255 isn't Gary?

That 255 V8 is fairly rare I think...only available for one year, maybe 2? I know nothing about this engine and have no idea how much support there is for it. However, if it's there and still runs OK, then you're all good.

This should be a fun project.

[Gary Lewis]

OK...so the truck was originally equipped with the small 255 cubic inch V8, a C4 auto trans, and 2.75 rear end. Do you know if the truck is all still original? The "D" engine code is the 255 isn't Gary?

That 255 V8 is fairly rare I think...only available for one year, maybe 2? I know nothing about this engine and have no idea how much support there is for it. However, if it's there and still runs OK, then you're all good.

This should be a fun project.

Yes, "D" in 1981 & '82 was the 255.

As for support, there's not much of it. They discontinued it pretty quickly as it wasn't very popular.

But, it has the Windsor perches and bolt pattern on the transmission, so a 302 or 351W would be an easy swap. I think it would be bolt-in save for the exhaust, which is different because the manifolds are farther apart on the bigger engines.

[hubcityford]

OK...so the truck was originally equipped with the small 255 cubic inch V8, a C4 auto trans, and 2.75 rear end. Do you know if the truck is all still original? The "D" engine code is the 255 isn't Gary?

That 255 V8 is fairly rare I think...only available for one year, maybe 2? I know nothing about this engine and have no idea how much support there is for it. However, if it's there and still runs OK, then you're all good.

This should be a fun project.

VERY original. Less than 80K miles I think.

First thing I plan to do is pull all plugs, remove belts and add oil in plug holes. Then try and turn over by hand to see if I have something to work with. Any diagrams regarding belts? I can draw out and take pics but always like a fall back plan. Also do I just loosen pulleys and belt come off?

[Gary Lewis]

VERY original. Less than 80K miles I think.

First thing I plan to do is pull all plugs, remove belts and add oil in plug holes. Then try and turn over by hand to see if I have something to work with. Any diagrams regarding belts? I can draw out and take pics but always like a fall back plan. Also do I just loosen pulleys and belt come off?

We don't have any diagrams on the site for belts, and I'm not finding anything in the master parts catalog that helps. But tomorrow I can see if I have a factory shop manual that helps. So make sure you take pics.

To remove the belts, you probably have a smog pump either above or below the alternator. One or both of those things will loosen to let the belt go slack.

On the other side the power steering pump usually has a sliding bracket on it where you can loosen two or three bolts and slack the belt enough to get it off.

So you shouldn't have to remove the pulleys. The belts should come off over the fan, and have to go back on in the reverse order.

[ArdWrknTrk]

VERY original. Less than 80K miles I think.

First thing I plan to do is pull all plugs, remove belts and add oil in plug holes. Then try and turn over by hand to see if I have something to work with. Any diagrams regarding belts? I can draw out and take pics but always like a fall back plan. Also do I just loosen pulleys and belt come off?

Welcome to the forum!

Both Gates and Dayco have belt routing diagrams on their websites and in their mobile apps.

I am familiar with the NaviGates application, find it is accurate, and includes part numbers.