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1981 F250 rear brakes gone


delco1946

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So i'm finally in the mood to start thinking about this problem (i've had no desire to work on any of my vehicles for a couple months now :nabble_smiley_unhappy:). My rear brakes don't seem to be working. this was confirmed by a shop that was doing some work and said the rear tires just "kept spinning" while somehow activating the brake system while lifted. Also, my brake light has yet to come on, indicating that warning system is also in need of attention.

I've not been driving it really so i haven't had a reason to play with it. I plan to see if the E-brake is working as that would indicate the pads are actuating against the drum. I bought the truck in February 2019 and had the front brakes replaced (frozen/rusted and totally non operational) and two mechanics said the rear brakes were "OK". This makes me think its probably an issue between the rear axle and the hood.

Anyone have a recommended order of operations of things to look at? Would a malfunctioning proportioning valve stop both rear brakes from activating? I plan on studying my repair manual (and documents on this website) this weekend.

Getting my (leaking) booster rebuilt is also on my list but i'm thinking that likely isn't the cause.

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The brake lights are operated by a switch on the brake pedal, so them not coming on is a different issue. But if you meant the brake warning light, it should come on for a few seconds when the key is first turned to On, so if it doesn’t come on then the bulb may be out.

And the proportioning valve turns that light on if it is stuck to one end, so it may be stuck to the rear and that could explain the lack of brakes.

So I’d check the bulb and the valve first.

And, by the way, the rear brakes are served by one line, so if it is crimped neither brake in the rear works.

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The brake lights are operated by a switch on the brake pedal, so them not coming on is a different issue. But if you meant the brake warning light, it should come on for a few seconds when the key is first turned to On, so if it doesn’t come on then the bulb may be out.

And the proportioning valve turns that light on if it is stuck to one end, so it may be stuck to the rear and that could explain the lack of brakes.

So I’d check the bulb and the valve first.

And, by the way, the rear brakes are served by one line, so if it is crimped neither brake in the rear works.

Gary, I think he means the brake *warning* lamp in the cluster....

Personally, tubing is cheap, and the hose/junction block is only $12-15 Iirc.

I would probably replace the wheel cylinders, R&L tubes on the axle, the hose/splitter (checking the axle vent tube) and the run up the rail, inside and next to the tank -where it always rusts out!- with Cupronickle tube.

Easy to bend, and you'd NEVER have to think about it in your lifetime.

Even at a buck a foot that'd be less than $20.

So, under $50 ALL IN if the fittings are useable and you have a double flare tool

 

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Gary, I think he means the brake *warning* lamp in the cluster....

Personally, tubing is cheap, and the hose/junction block is only $12-15 Iirc.

I would probably replace the wheel cylinders, R&L tubes on the axle, the hose/splitter (checking the axle vent tube) and the run up the rail, inside and next to the tank -where it always rusts out!- with Cupronickle tube.

Easy to bend, and you'd NEVER have to think about it in your lifetime.

Even at a buck a foot that'd be less than $20.

So, under $50 ALL IN if the fittings are useable and you have a double flare tool

If the front was that bad the rest of the system cant be far behind.

You said the booster is leaking so I would start with the booster & master replace.

I would pull the rear drums just so I know everything is in good shape.

As said if that far just replace the wheel cyl and rear rubber hose, if shoes are good leave them.

Adjust the rear brakes so they are just dragging and do a good bleeding of the system.

When you replace the master bench bleed it before installing it.

Once you know every part of the system is good you can start to get it to work like it should from the factory.

I am happy I went thru the brake system on my truck as the rear drums were put together wrong, missing springs and Ebrake cable on 1 side. By the time I was done I replaced everything for the brakes on my truck.

Dave ----

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If the front was that bad the rest of the system cant be far behind.

You said the booster is leaking so I would start with the booster & master replace.

I would pull the rear drums just so I know everything is in good shape.

As said if that far just replace the wheel cyl and rear rubber hose, if shoes are good leave them.

Adjust the rear brakes so they are just dragging and do a good bleeding of the system.

When you replace the master bench bleed it before installing it.

Once you know every part of the system is good you can start to get it to work like it should from the factory.

I am happy I went thru the brake system on my truck as the rear drums were put together wrong, missing springs and Ebrake cable on 1 side. By the time I was done I replaced everything for the brakes on my truck.

Dave ----

Well I guess I’m changing my plans. A 16 year old girl decided to back up into my truck tbone style. Her mother ( not present) is denying anything so who knows what’s in store. There were witnesses but still I’m heart broken.

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Well I guess I’m changing my plans. A 16 year old girl decided to back up into my truck tbone style. Her mother ( not present) is denying anything so who knows what’s in store. There were witnesses but still I’m heart broken.

That really sucks man. People keep destroying these trucks left and right with their careless driving. It's a shame. Any pics of the damage?

 

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Well I guess I’m changing my plans. A 16 year old girl decided to back up into my truck tbone style. Her mother ( not present) is denying anything so who knows what’s in store. There were witnesses but still I’m heart broken.

😥. I'm so sorry to hear this.

And the mother's reinforcing the idea that avoiding personal responsibility is ok...

That's half the problem with everything in America today. (No one owns up to it)

Delco, I hope you are made whole. :nabble_smiley_good:

"Accidents will happen,

it's always hit & run

He used to be your victim

Now he's not the only one

.

I don't know where to begin"...

A slide on black ice, or something, by a new driver is one thing.

But this due to the fact her inattentiveness caused it.

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😥. I'm so sorry to hear this.

And the mother's reinforcing the idea that avoiding personal responsibility is ok...

That's half the problem with everything in America today. (No one owns up to it)

Delco, I hope you are made whole. :nabble_smiley_good:

"Accidents will happen,

it's always hit & run

He used to be your victim

Now he's not the only one

.

I don't know where to begin"...

A slide on black ice, or something, by a new driver is one thing.

But this due to the fact her inattentiveness caused it.

That does suck.

I hope you got the names & numbers of the people that saw this and pictures of the damage of both truck & car.

Pictures will show it was that car that did the damage then it is up to them to figure who was driving to take blame. I hate to say this but mom sounds like a dirt bag.

Just be careful when going thru insurance.

My guess you have normal insurance, and that would be listed as book value of what?

Lets say book is $1000 and you have $800 worth of damage the truck would be totaled as the damage is more than 75% of book. You then lose the truck or you could by it back but it now has a "totaled" title and if you want to sell or maybe even keep it you could have issues getting plates.

That is why I don't have normal insurance on my truck, if totaled I gat $11,000 and I get to keep the truck. (Hagerty Insurance)

Good luck

Dave ----

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