ArdWrknTrk Posted June 12, 2020 Share Posted June 12, 2020 If hazard lights work all the way round, would I be right to assume that fault is in flasher or switch? Since fuses, wires and bulbs are in order for Hazards to flash? Gary used this diagram in a another thread were one was having problem With RH turn lights, but since I have nothing besides Hazard, I thought testing flasher and if it Clears assume it\s the switch? So, switch the flasher relays (front to back) Does the situation change? Does your horn work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Papelione Posted June 12, 2020 Author Share Posted June 12, 2020 So, switch the flasher relays (front to back) Does the situation change? Does your horn work? Switched relays both now only rh hazard is working. tested with a spare same result, no turn light. Relays are good, bought test light 5A fuse to inst light doesn't get any power in fuse box. power to relays and to switch. Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted June 12, 2020 Share Posted June 12, 2020 Switched relays both now only rh hazard is working. tested with a spare same result, no turn light. Relays are good, bought test light 5A fuse to inst light doesn't get any power in fuse box. power to relays and to switch. Any ideas? If you switched flashers around and only the 4 ways keep working, you have power to both flashers and power into the switch from the turn flasher I would say it is a bed switch. As for the 5A fuse not having power some fuses don't get power till what ever they protect is turned on. So turn on the park or head lights and check again. Dave ----Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Papelione Posted June 12, 2020 Author Share Posted June 12, 2020 Switched relays both now only rh hazard is working. tested with a spare same result, no turn light. Relays are good, bought test light 5A fuse to inst light doesn't get any power in fuse box. power to relays and to switch. Any ideas? If you switched flashers around and only the 4 ways keep working, you have power to both flashers and power into the switch from the turn flasher I would say it is a bed switch. As for the 5A fuse not having power some fuses don't get power till what ever they protect is turned on. So turn on the park or head lights and check again. Dave ---- Ok that's it for tonight, luckily we have midnight sun now so easy to keep going :=) Disassembly of column is quite a job, was careful not to break or loose anything. Turnlight switch is out. Will order new one Monday, probably 10-14 days before its here... Took tilt function apart was all gummed up and stuck, now its clean and seams to be working fine:=) But the job started with me wanting to swap the actuator rod lever, which will be done got the part. But from what I can see a previous owner has made some changes to the wiring from ignition switch and that might be the reason truck will start from bypass and not from key. In picture below there is a splice into ignition switch were red/lt blue should have been, splice goes to hot side of solenoid were it meets wire from bypass button. Red/lt blue normal goes to electronic ignition module...... When I get everything back together, and make a soldering and reconnect red/ltblue to its proper place in ignition module, wouldn't you think truck will start from key? Best regards Christian  Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 13, 2020 Share Posted June 13, 2020 Ok that's it for tonight, luckily we have midnight sun now so easy to keep going :=) Disassembly of column is quite a job, was careful not to break or loose anything. Turnlight switch is out. Will order new one Monday, probably 10-14 days before its here... Took tilt function apart was all gummed up and stuck, now its clean and seams to be working fine:=) But the job started with me wanting to swap the actuator rod lever, which will be done got the part. But from what I can see a previous owner has made some changes to the wiring from ignition switch and that might be the reason truck will start from bypass and not from key. In picture below there is a splice into ignition switch were red/lt blue should have been, splice goes to hot side of solenoid were it meets wire from bypass button. Red/lt blue normal goes to electronic ignition module...... When I get everything back together, and make a soldering and reconnect red/ltblue to its proper place in ignition module, wouldn't you think truck will start from key? Best regards Christian Yes, when you get things put back correctly I'll bet it starts from the key w/o the bypass button. And, things are looking good! Midnight sun!!!! We'd hoped to make that cruise some day, but now aren't sure we want to go on another cruise at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Papelione Posted June 15, 2020 Author Share Posted June 15, 2020 Yes, when you get things put back correctly I'll bet it starts from the key w/o the bypass button. And, things are looking good! Midnight sun!!!! We'd hoped to make that cruise some day, but now aren't sure we want to go on another cruise at all. Waiting for the turn light Switch, and thought I might as well reconnect red/ltblue to its proper place in the ignition switch, had the right connecter and........... It will still go to run everything starts up, but in "start" nothing besides the fan goes off. Bypass will turn over but not catch, with the splice from ignition switch red/ltblue to solenoid it would start and catch on the bypass. From what I can see the correct wires are leaving the ignition switch. But something must be off since starter doesn't engage with correct wires in ignition switch... A little dumbfounded just now. Best Christian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Papelione Posted June 15, 2020 Author Share Posted June 15, 2020 Waiting for the turn light Switch, and thought I might as well reconnect red/ltblue to its proper place in the ignition switch, had the right connecter and........... It will still go to run everything starts up, but in "start" nothing besides the fan goes off. Bypass will turn over but not catch, with the splice from ignition switch red/ltblue to solenoid it would start and catch on the bypass. From what I can see the correct wires are leaving the ignition switch. But something must be off since starter doesn't engage with correct wires in ignition switch... A little dumbfounded just now. Best Christian Think I will look int the ignition control module tomorrow, that is were red/ltblue goes to. Could it be failing ? and is that the reason previous owner bypassed it? To be continued. :=) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Papelione Posted June 16, 2020 Author Share Posted June 16, 2020 Think I will look int the ignition control module tomorrow, that is were red/ltblue goes to. Could it be failing ? and is that the reason previous owner bypassed it? To be continued. :=) Ok took a look at the wiring in the engine compartment, from what I can see, "new" wires have been drawn from solenoid to all major components. Distributor, starter , alternator, wiper motor. Could this be to bypass ignition control module ICM? Seems like a lot of trouble instead of changing the ICM? Any thoughts? Best Christian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 Ok took a look at the wiring in the engine compartment, from what I can see, "new" wires have been drawn from solenoid to all major components. Distributor, starter , alternator, wiper motor. Could this be to bypass ignition control module ICM? Seems like a lot of trouble instead of changing the ICM? Any thoughts? Best Christian Hard to say w/o knowing how things are bypassed. But you've gone this far, why not fix it right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 Ok took a look at the wiring in the engine compartment, from what I can see, "new" wires have been drawn from solenoid to all major components. Distributor, starter , alternator, wiper motor. Could this be to bypass ignition control module ICM? Seems like a lot of trouble instead of changing the ICM? Any thoughts? Best Christian All that sounds like nothing is wrong with the ignition module. And everything is wrong with the previous owner. Eliminating the factory wiring harness is difficult to make 'improvement', but some people have no idea of their disorder or their ignorance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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