FuzzFace2 Posted August 31, 2020 Share Posted August 31, 2020 No, no Take them off at the filler doors. Getting the concentric lines in place is very difficult from under the truck. 10-4 ON THAT! If you open the door you have 3 screws (#8 in the picture) around the metal filler tube. This holds the metal tube to the plastic "bucket" so if you undo them the metal tube will disconnect from the bucket. Now from the under side follow the tube to the tanks and you should find a hose clamp holding the fuller tube assy to the bed floor, you will need to un do this before the bed comes off. note the below screws can be rusty and may snap when trying to undo them! The other thing you can do to remove the filler tube is undo the 2 screws (#2 in the picture) holding the door to the bed side and the other 2 screws on the other side, 4 total. This will disconnect the bucket from the bed side then follow the tube down to the tank for the hose clamp holding the tube to the bed floor. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Papelione Posted September 2, 2020 Author Share Posted September 2, 2020 No, no Take them off at the filler doors. Getting the concentric lines in place is very difficult from under the truck. 10-4 ON THAT! If you open the door you have 3 screws (#8 in the picture) around the metal filler tube. This holds the metal tube to the plastic "bucket" so if you undo them the metal tube will disconnect from the bucket. Now from the under side follow the tube to the tanks and you should find a hose clamp holding the fuller tube assy to the bed floor, you will need to un do this before the bed comes off. note the below screws can be rusty and may snap when trying to undo them! The other thing you can do to remove the filler tube is undo the 2 screws (#2 in the picture) holding the door to the bed side and the other 2 screws on the other side, 4 total. This will disconnect the bucket from the bed side then follow the tube down to the tank for the hose clamp holding the tube to the bed floor. Dave ---- Thank you guys Took two evenings, and thanks to your good advice I was able to, take the bed off tonight with help of a friend. No incidents:=) Ok that was nice, started cleaning the surround around both fuel pumps, front pump is a "Airtex 2138s" which tells me that this must have been replaced at some point, and that previous owner probably also wanted to replace the rear since a loose Airtex 2089s (rear) came with the truck. At the rear it looks like it is the original pump. trying to get organized on what to do now. -superlube TSV, and cancel bypass. (with new fuel hoses). -Measure if there is any power to each of the pumps. How would you proceed? Best Christian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 2, 2020 Share Posted September 2, 2020 Thank you guys Took two evenings, and thanks to your good advice I was able to, take the bed off tonight with help of a friend. No incidents:=) Ok that was nice, started cleaning the surround around both fuel pumps, front pump is a "Airtex 2138s" which tells me that this must have been replaced at some point, and that previous owner probably also wanted to replace the rear since a loose Airtex 2089s (rear) came with the truck. At the rear it looks like it is the original pump. trying to get organized on what to do now. -superlube TSV, and cancel bypass. (with new fuel hoses). -Measure if there is any power to each of the pumps. How would you proceed? Best Christian Congrat's! The first thing I'd do is to verify that the tank switching valve is sending power to the pumps and connecting the sending units to the gauge. You can check the latter by grounding the lead at the sending unit, obviously with the switch thrown to the tank you are testing, and you should see the gauge go to Full. If the TSV works electrically then I'd verify that it is working to route both the supply and return lines properly. You should be able to blow through it to test that. If the TSV is working then you are now to a point to test the pumps and sending units. But if you are that far in I'd pull the units out of the tanks to see what the tanks look like inside. No sense placing the bed back on if you have a rusty tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted September 2, 2020 Share Posted September 2, 2020 Congrat's! The first thing I'd do is to verify that the tank switching valve is sending power to the pumps and connecting the sending units to the gauge. You can check the latter by grounding the lead at the sending unit, obviously with the switch thrown to the tank you are testing, and you should see the gauge go to Full. If the TSV works electrically then I'd verify that it is working to route both the supply and return lines properly. You should be able to blow through it to test that. If the TSV is working then you are now to a point to test the pumps and sending units. But if you are that far in I'd pull the units out of the tanks to see what the tanks look like inside. No sense placing the bed back on if you have a rusty tank. Gary, by your schematic the selector relay is directly sending power to the pumps, not the tank switching valve (which only switches senders) Christian, not necessarily "Superlube", just some kind of non-petroleum lubricant (silicone, ptfe) so the rubber seals are not rubbing dry against the shuttle. It's much easier to R&R the pumps/sending units with the bed off. I would check to confirm the tank selector relay is switching power from one pump to the other. (Maybe it only needs a new relay?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 2, 2020 Share Posted September 2, 2020 Gary, by your schematic the selector relay is directly sending power to the pumps, not the tank switching valve (which only switches senders) Christian, not necessarily "Superlube", just some kind of non-petroleum lubricant (silicone, ptfe) so the rubber seals are not rubbing dry against the shuttle. It's much easier to R&R the pumps/sending units with the bed off. I would check to confirm the tank selector relay is switching power from one pump to the other. (Maybe it only needs a new relay?) You are right, I'm wrong. Good catch, Jim. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted September 2, 2020 Share Posted September 2, 2020 You are right, I'm wrong. Good catch, Jim. Thanks. I'm not trying to "catch" anyone, Gary. Just want to make it clear where the pumps are getting power. But I'm certain Christian already knows this, as he has all the pins of the tank switching valve already mapped out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 2, 2020 Share Posted September 2, 2020 I'm not trying to "catch" anyone, Gary. Just want to make it clear where the pumps are getting power. But I'm certain Christian already knows this, as he has all the pins of the tank switching valve already mapped out. I don't like being wrong, but I'd much rather someone point it out so someone else isn't getting frustrated trying to follow incorrect instructions. That's what I mean by "catch it". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Papelione Posted September 2, 2020 Author Share Posted September 2, 2020 I don't like being wrong, but I'd much rather someone point it out so someone else isn't getting frustrated trying to follow incorrect instructions. That's what I mean by "catch it". Ok So with engine running, check to see if power is coming to the electrical plug at the pump mounts? And if It switches between the two tanks? Rear tank pump mount Front tank pump mount Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted September 2, 2020 Share Posted September 2, 2020 Ok So with engine running, check to see if power is coming to the electrical plug at the pump mounts? And if It switches between the two tanks? Rear tank pump mount Front tank pump mount Yes, or you could easily check at the relay up by the brake booster. But that might not indicate a wire fault between relay and pump Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted September 2, 2020 Share Posted September 2, 2020 I don't like being wrong, but I'd much rather someone point it out so someone else isn't getting frustrated trying to follow incorrect instructions. That's what I mean by "catch it". The hot fuel handling system has been through a few iterations, Gary. It's hard to keep track. Confusing at best, if not downright baffling to some. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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