Fog Light Bezel, Switch, etc

[ArdWrknTrk]

Gary, the letters look the right size, but the spacing between them is too tight. I think that is the kernel(?) size in type setting lingo? I don't know if there is any way to adjust that but it might help. Also if it could be bolded or similar, as the width of the line needs to be more. The shape of the letters does look really close to the Ford font though! 👍

Point or Pica is height.

Kerning is the space*ing* between letters.

Fonts can be "extended" (stretched) horizontally.

Or, a 'bold' font will usually be longer, not only because the lines are thicker, but because the Kerning will be wider to make it not looked cramped.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Point or Pica is height.

Kerning is the space*ing* between letters.

Fonts can be "extended" (stretched) horizontally.

Or, a 'bold' font will usually be longer, not only because the lines are thicker, but because the Kerning will be wider to make it not looked cramped.

That's an over simplification, but if you want to geek out with someone who sold commercial art supplies and more Letraset than you can imagine from the age of 10, bring it on...

Lol

[PetesPonies]

Pete - You may be right, but we can tweak the font pretty easily once I get the rest of it sorted out.

And, I think I'm about there. Here's the latest, but I still need measurements to confirm a number of things, like the placement of the lever opening and lettering since I took them off of pictures and parallax may be a problem. And, on the lettering height and length. But, those things are easy to change.

However, I don't yet have the studs drawn on the back that go through the instrument bezel. Turns out that the holes in the instrument bezel I have are not lined up at right angles to the bottom of the instrument bezel. And, since I don't really know where the fog lamp bezel sits on the instrument bezel I don't know where to put those studs. So, you'uns with fog lamp bezels please give me some direction.

Also, we need to come up with a way to attach the fog lamp bezel to the instrument bezel. The factory used studs, which were in strange locations, that protruded through the instrument bezel and were melted over. I'm not sure how easy that is to do with the material used in 3D printers, but obviously it can be melted so maybe that will work.

Anyway, here's the angle-shot which shows more detail of the 3D:

And, here's a side-by-side. A couple of things stand out to me. First, the radius on the corners needs to be smaller. Second, the letters need to be taller. What do you see?

Can they be attached with speed nuts?

[Gary Lewis]

Can they be attached with speed nuts?

Jim - I stretched those characters to get what you see. But when we get the real measurements then I'll go back and try bold and other options. Just did that to get something to show. But if you, or anyone else, knows what needs to be done to the font then please let me know.

Pete - Speed nuts are a good idea. In the pic below you can imagine the stud there, which will be ~.250" in diameter as the holes in the instrument bezel are ~.275". So, a speed nut would probably fit w/o hitting the arm of the switch. Good idea!

http://bullnose-enthusiasts.12971.n8.nabble.com/file/n5143/IMG_2933.jpg;cid=1511543874118-384

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Did a little more playing. Ran the font through a service on-line that said that Kasse FLF is the best font, so downloaded and installed it. And it is pretty close. However, as you'll see, the distance from the left of the F to the right of the P in FOG LAMP isn't as much as on the bezel - even though the height of the letters is what Jonathan measured.

I can probably stretch the lettering to make it longer, but I think that will make it look odd, so am wondering if the letters really need to be different. Anyway, the letters are randomly placed on the bezel, so don't read anything into their position.

And, for Pete, here's a head-on shot. Much easier to compare to Jonathan's pic.

Your letters need to be more bold.

Look at the amount of space inside the G or the P.

latest iteration (at bottom of previous page) is too stretched.

Stroke width will help a lot in making it look right.

And, yes the font is a good match.

[reamer]

Pete - You may be right, but we can tweak the font pretty easily once I get the rest of it sorted out.

And, I think I'm about there. Here's the latest, but I still need measurements to confirm a number of things, like the placement of the lever opening and lettering since I took them off of pictures and parallax may be a problem. And, on the lettering height and length. But, those things are easy to change.

However, I don't yet have the studs drawn on the back that go through the instrument bezel. Turns out that the holes in the instrument bezel I have are not lined up at right angles to the bottom of the instrument bezel. And, since I don't really know where the fog lamp bezel sits on the instrument bezel I don't know where to put those studs. So, you'uns with fog lamp bezels please give me some direction.

Also, we need to come up with a way to attach the fog lamp bezel to the instrument bezel. The factory used studs, which were in strange locations, that protruded through the instrument bezel and were melted over. I'm not sure how easy that is to do with the material used in 3D printers, but obviously it can be melted so maybe that will work.

Anyway, here's the angle-shot which shows more detail of the 3D:

And, here's a side-by-side. A couple of things stand out to me. First, the radius on the corners needs to be smaller. Second, the letters need to be taller. What do you see?

I will have precise letter measurements for you once my NOS one shows, maybe this week!

[Ford F834]

Jim - I stretched those characters to get what you see. But when we get the real measurements then I'll go back and try bold and other options. Just did that to get something to show. But if you, or anyone else, knows what needs to be done to the font then please let me know.

Pete - Speed nuts are a good idea. In the pic below you can imagine the stud there, which will be ~.250" in diameter as the holes in the instrument bezel are ~.275". So, a speed nut would probably fit w/o hitting the arm of the switch. Good idea!

http://bullnose-enthusiasts.12971.n8.nabble.com/file/n5143/IMG_2933.jpg;cid=1511543874118-384

Gary, I took more measurements with calipers, so hopefully this will be everything you need...

Bead width = 1/16"

Bead height from bezel face = 3/64"

Letter thickness from bezel face = 1/32"

Inside edge of left bead to left side of slot opening = 1/8"

Right side of slot opening to inside edge of right bead = 1-1/32"

Lower slot radius to inside edge of bottom bead = 17/64"

Upper slot radius to inside edge of top bead = 5/8"

Space between inside of left bead and upright leg of the "F" = 13/64"

Space between the right edge of the "S" in fog lights and the inside edge of the right bead = 7/32"

Space between the upper bead and the top of the fog lights script = 23/64"

Space between the inside edge of the upper bead and the top of the "on" letters = 58/64"

... to the top of the "off" lettering = 1-9/16"

Space between the right side of the N in "on" and the inside edge of the right bead = 13/32"

Space between the right side of the F in "off" and the inside edge of the right bead = 23/64"

Space from right side of slot to the O in "on" = 3/8"

Space from right side of slot to the O in "off" = 21/64"

"Fog Lamps" word length = 1-5/64"

"ON" word length = 1/4"

"OFF" word length = 21/64"

Distance between centers on the mounting studs on reverse of bezel = 1-11/16"

Naturally I don't think you will want to use ALL of these measurements, but hopefully I have made enough reference points to be able to position everything. What you have already looks really close even viewed side by side, minus the bold facing of the font.

Another minor detail in case no one noticed, the lettering is white, not chrome like the bead...

 

[FuzzFace2]

Jim - I stretched those characters to get what you see. But when we get the real measurements then I'll go back and try bold and other options. Just did that to get something to show. But if you, or anyone else, knows what needs to be done to the font then please let me know.

Pete - Speed nuts are a good idea. In the pic below you can imagine the stud there, which will be ~.250" in diameter as the holes in the instrument bezel are ~.275". So, a speed nut would probably fit w/o hitting the arm of the switch. Good idea!

Where on the instrument bezel does it go?

Is the bezel made just for the fog lights or can the holes be drilled to fit the fog light switch bezel?

Anyone have a picture of one installed?

Dave ----

 

[Gary Lewis]

Jim - I stretched those characters to get what you see. But when we get the real measurements then I'll go back and try bold and other options. Just did that to get something to show. But if you, or anyone else, knows what needs to be done to the font then please let me know.

Pete - Speed nuts are a good idea. In the pic below you can imagine the stud there, which will be ~.250" in diameter as the holes in the instrument bezel are ~.275". So, a speed nut would probably fit w/o hitting the arm of the switch. Good idea!

Where on the instrument bezel does it go?

Is the bezel made just for the fog lights or can the holes be drilled to fit the fog light switch bezel?

Anyone have a picture of one installed?

Dave ----

Jonathan - Good job! Thanks! I'm going to re-draw the whole thing in a day or two using those measurements, and will be able to get it really close to "right" this time.

The only thing we won't have will be the studs on the back, but when Ron/Reamer gets his maybe those are measurements he can get for us since yours is installed and, therefore, hard to measure. And, adding the studs to the otherwise-completed bezel will be easy.

As for the color of the lettering, I'll make it white this time.

Dave - Here's Jonathan's pic, and the bead to the left surrounds the headlight/wiper switches. So the fog lamp bezel sits between there and the steering column. And, you can drill any instrument bezel to accept the fog lamp bezel. I have a factory instrument bezel with the holes, so can measure it at some point when we get that far and detail out exactly where the holes should go and how large they should be.

 

[FuzzFace2]

Jonathan - Good job! Thanks! I'm going to re-draw the whole thing in a day or two using those measurements, and will be able to get it really close to "right" this time.

The only thing we won't have will be the studs on the back, but when Ron/Reamer gets his maybe those are measurements he can get for us since yours is installed and, therefore, hard to measure. And, adding the studs to the otherwise-completed bezel will be easy.

As for the color of the lettering, I'll make it white this time.

Dave - Here's Jonathan's pic, and the bead to the left surrounds the headlight/wiper switches. So the fog lamp bezel sits between there and the steering column. And, you can drill any instrument bezel to accept the fog lamp bezel. I have a factory instrument bezel with the holes, so can measure it at some point when we get that far and detail out exactly where the holes should go and how large they should be.

That would be good, that way everything is in 1 place when someone is looking for it like me when the time comes.

edit I:It looks like the fog bezel is a little longer than the light/wiper one?

edit II: Looking at the back side picture and taking about studs to hold the bezel what holds the switch?

Any way someone has a picture of the back side with switch and all?

Dave ----