WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?

[Ford F834]

Well spotted, Jonathan. I have a NOS piece that will go on when I "restore" Big Blue. But, in the interim I'd love to have that replacement.

As for Huck - merge "half" and "truck" and what do you get? Huck seemed more kind than Hack. Sort of a Tom Sawyer type of name.

Now, back to the microfiche tower.....

Very good! I like the name...

I plan to visit the junkyard either tomorrow or Monday, if the trim piece is still available I will grab it. I decided not to pull it all as it would be too time consuming, too expensive, and not very useful as an incomplete set.

[Gary Lewis]

Very good! I like the name...

I plan to visit the junkyard either tomorrow or Monday, if the trim piece is still available I will grab it. I decided not to pull it all as it would be too time consuming, too expensive, and not very useful as an incomplete set.

Thanks! Now, back to my tower.......

[85lebaront2]

Thanks! Now, back to my tower.......

Nothing to my truck, but did play French yard games (mow-z-lawn) with my Ford YT16H.

[Gary Lewis]

Nothing to my truck, but did play French yard games (mow-z-lawn) with my Ford YT16H.

Brandon is on his way over and is to be doing some media blasting, so I thought it was a good time to do some work for Bill.

He sent me his upper plenum with twisted off EGR valve bolts and I was supposed to remove the EGR valve from the plenum that I got from Jim and send it to Bill. But, when I tried to remove the EGR valve today I wound up with a twin to Bill's plenum.

Fortunately I have the one that is still on Huck's engine and the EGR valve came off of it cleanly. So that's the one we'll blast today.

[85lebaront2]

Brandon is on his way over and is to be doing some media blasting, so I thought it was a good time to do some work for Bill.

He sent me his upper plenum with twisted off EGR valve bolts and I was supposed to remove the EGR valve from the plenum that I got from Jim and send it to Bill. But, when I tried to remove the EGR valve today I wound up with a twin to Bill's plenum.

Fortunately I have the one that is still on Huck's engine and the EGR valve came off of it cleanly. So that's the one we'll blast today.

Easy to do, I usually heat the devil out of the bolt area, the one I sent was that way when I got it.

[Gary Lewis]

Easy to do, I usually heat the devil out of the bolt area, the one I sent was that way when I got it.

I'll probably heat the area around the one that sticks out a ways and see if it'll come out. If so, then I'll weld something to the other one on that plenum, let it cool, and then heat that aluminum and see if it'll come out. That way I'll have another good one for someone.

But, I'm cutting the EGR lump off of the one you sent, milling it down, taping the hole, and plugging it up. Should look pretty clean and "factory".

[FuzzFace2]

Oops, I forgot to look BB's T19 over yesterday. Got too busy working on some silly forum. And then when I did work on him I was less than successful, as described here. Maybe today will be better.

The truck hates me for not spending more time with it.

So the plan was to tighten up the suspension bolts so the suspension needed to be settled and I did not want to push it by hand.

Not wanting to add fuel to the tanks,. don't know when I would be using it so a 2 gal can under the hood should do. Took over an hour to get the pump to pump fuel to the carb.

First I thought the 3/8 line on a 5/16 fitting was sucking air and it was leaking some fuel. Well even the 5/16 line had issues or the pump but we got fuel to the carb.

The truck went thru 2 gal of fuel hope nota sign it will be drinking fuel. I will replace the fuel pump just to be safe.

Next issue the carb! It is running rich, speed screw is in all the way and only have 1000 RPM and that is with a vacuum leak, plug it off and it will not run.

I hope a rebuild will fix it so will pick up a kit by the weekend.

Got it to run long enough to move it in & out a few times but did not see the oil gauge working. Up to this point did not have water in it so added some wile I looked into the carb more.

Think I saw the temp gauge go up a little but never to normal. I shorted the wires to ground and the gauges moved so going to replace the senders. Oh the tach works great!

So when moving the truck in & out the clutch, that is new, was grabbing right off the floor. So I adjusted it some tested it and better but still not like I wanted. So getting back under I found an issue with the Z bar block side pivot.

Hard to see in the picture but it was half broken.

As you can see the threads cam out of the block easily. Now this part is N/A as I had to build up the bushing end with weld, grind & file back into shape.

Trip to the hardware store and picked up 2 - 9/16x12 grade 8 bolts. Cut the head off, V the end and the block part so could weld it up and ended up with this.

It works, still need to adjust it a little more for my liking.

I also replaced the E brake adjuster. The old one was all rusted up, still don't know if it works or not. Before the replacement the pedal went to the floor and would not hold the truck so I need to check again.

I also need to check the rear drum brake adjustment and look a little deeper into the low brake pedal. Other than the master & booster and other parts are new, maybe more bleeding?

Also talked to my brother in CA and he said he would send the tail gate & other parts out on Monday.

Dave ----

ps:yes I did get the suspension bolts tight.

[Gary Lewis]

The truck hates me for not spending more time with it.

So the plan was to tighten up the suspension bolts so the suspension needed to be settled and I did not want to push it by hand.

Not wanting to add fuel to the tanks,. don't know when I would be using it so a 2 gal can under the hood should do. Took over an hour to get the pump to pump fuel to the carb.

First I thought the 3/8 line on a 5/16 fitting was sucking air and it was leaking some fuel. Well even the 5/16 line had issues or the pump but we got fuel to the carb.

The truck went thru 2 gal of fuel hope nota sign it will be drinking fuel. I will replace the fuel pump just to be safe.

Next issue the carb! It is running rich, speed screw is in all the way and only have 1000 RPM and that is with a vacuum leak, plug it off and it will not run.

I hope a rebuild will fix it so will pick up a kit by the weekend.

Got it to run long enough to move it in & out a few times but did not see the oil gauge working. Up to this point did not have water in it so added some wile I looked into the carb more.

Think I saw the temp gauge go up a little but never to normal. I shorted the wires to ground and the gauges moved so going to replace the senders. Oh the tach works great!

So when moving the truck in & out the clutch, that is new, was grabbing right off the floor. So I adjusted it some tested it and better but still not like I wanted. So getting back under I found an issue with the Z bar block side pivot.

Hard to see in the picture but it was half broken.

As you can see the threads cam out of the block easily. Now this part is N/A as I had to build up the bushing end with weld, grind & file back into shape.

Trip to the hardware store and picked up 2 - 9/16x12 grade 8 bolts. Cut the head off, V the end and the block part so could weld it up and ended up with this.

It works, still need to adjust it a little more for my liking.

I also replaced the E brake adjuster. The old one was all rusted up, still don't know if it works or not. Before the replacement the pedal went to the floor and would not hold the truck so I need to check again.

I also need to check the rear drum brake adjustment and look a little deeper into the low brake pedal. Other than the master & booster and other parts are new, maybe more bleeding?

Also talked to my brother in CA and he said he would send the tail gate & other parts out on Monday.

Dave ----

ps:yes I did get the suspension bolts tight.

Dave - You had quite a day! But that truck is jealous, so you need to baby it a bit more.

And, well done on the engine-side pivot. Been there, done that. Lots of work and it'll wear out that Nylon bushing if you don't keep it lubed. But it has more feel than the hydraulic linkage when it works.

[85lebaront2]

Dave - You had quite a day! But that truck is jealous, so you need to baby it a bit more.

And, well done on the engine-side pivot. Been there, done that. Lots of work and it'll wear out that Nylon bushing if you don't keep it lubed. But it has more feel than the hydraulic linkage when it works.

Yeah, they do have a nice feel, particularly the old Long semi-centrifugal ones, until the damn cross tube splits at the end. Had that happen on both my Falcon and Shelby.

[Gary Lewis]

Yeah, they do have a nice feel, particularly the old Long semi-centrifugal ones, until the damn cross tube splits at the end. Had that happen on both my Falcon and Shelby.

You must have had a pretty stout clutch in them to split the tube. I've rebuilt several on these trucks and the tubes were in good shape but the plastic bushings were GONE and the metal below them was badly worn. Changed all the pivots over to sintered bronze and I suspect they would last a long time.