85lebaront2 Posted February 9, 2018 Share Posted February 9, 2018 Bill - I really like the detail you are including on Darth's write up. When people ask what it takes you'll have the answer. Well done! As for what I did today (neatly dodging the "to" my truck aspect of the title), I designed a gauge interface to adapt Bricknose sending units to Bullnose gauges. And then tried to explain how it'll work. Several times. Then I did a bunch of media-blasting for parts for Dad's truck as well as for a friend. Not much to show there yet, but here's a before/after on the two stub axles that I blasted. Hopefully I'll get some powder coating done tomorrow. Well, not so much to my truck, but my wife's 2011 Flex. Wednesday when we went to Pocomoke City and Salisbury. she put her bag on the passenger side floor, when she picked it up while I was leaving the queen for her "spa treatment" she picked it and noticed it was wet on the bottom, the entire mat and carpet were soaked, fortunately not antifreeze. That left two possibilities a clogged A/C drain or a clogged cowl drain. Turns out the latter is a known issue just like our trucks. Crud from leaves, etc piles up on the drain valve and completely blocks it, water then builds up during torrential rains or melting snow and overflows into the HVAC inlet. I took the wipers and plastic covers off, cleaned everything and removed the rubber drain valve so it can't ever plug up again. Now all I have to do is get the rest of the water out of the carpet (I really don't want to remove it). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 9, 2018 Author Share Posted February 9, 2018 Well, not so much to my truck, but my wife's 2011 Flex. Wednesday when we went to Pocomoke City and Salisbury. she put her bag on the passenger side floor, when she picked it up while I was leaving the queen for her "spa treatment" she picked it and noticed it was wet on the bottom, the entire mat and carpet were soaked, fortunately not antifreeze. That left two possibilities a clogged A/C drain or a clogged cowl drain. Turns out the latter is a known issue just like our trucks. Crud from leaves, etc piles up on the drain valve and completely blocks it, water then builds up during torrential rains or melting snow and overflows into the HVAC inlet. I took the wipers and plastic covers off, cleaned everything and removed the rubber drain valve so it can't ever plug up again. Now all I have to do is get the rest of the water out of the carpet (I really don't want to remove it). So, Ford didn't learn? Glad you found it. But, to dry it can you pull the threshold and blow air under it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted February 9, 2018 Share Posted February 9, 2018 So, Ford didn't learn? Glad you found it. But, to dry it can you pull the threshold and blow air under it? Maybe, I am going to look at the coin-op car wash and see what they have for a vacuum. If not, I will see what's involved at least I have the 30 lbs of manuals for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ford F834 Posted February 9, 2018 Share Posted February 9, 2018 Bill - I really like the detail you are including on Darth's write up. When people ask what it takes you'll have the answer. Well done! As for what I did today (neatly dodging the "to" my truck aspect of the title), I designed a gauge interface to adapt Bricknose sending units to Bullnose gauges. And then tried to explain how it'll work. Several times. Then I did a bunch of media-blasting for parts for Dad's truck as well as for a friend. Not much to show there yet, but here's a before/after on the two stub axles that I blasted. Hopefully I'll get some powder coating done tomorrow. I picked up my 7.3 block from the machinist and unloaded it into my dad's shop. I bid a bitter sweet farewell to my '68 F250. I am glad to be down to just the two bullnoses and I am definitely glad to end the Craigslist ad hassle (what a nightmare). It will be missed however... I remembered that I mail ordered som Motorcraft argent spray paint as a possible XLS bezel cloning paint. It is not even close. It is far too dark, far too much metal flake texture and it almost has that fake hammered finish look to it. Definitely a wheel paint. Here is is on a junk bezel: Not going to work... back to the drawing board for a dull white-silver aluminum looking paint... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 9, 2018 Author Share Posted February 9, 2018 I picked up my 7.3 block from the machinist and unloaded it into my dad's shop. I bid a bitter sweet farewell to my '68 F250. I am glad to be down to just the two bullnoses and I am definitely glad to end the Craigslist ad hassle (what a nightmare). It will be missed however... I remembered that I mail ordered som Motorcraft argent spray paint as a possible XLS bezel cloning paint. It is not even close. It is far too dark, far too much metal flake texture and it almost has that fake hammered finish look to it. Definitely a wheel paint. Here is is on a junk bezel: Not going to work... back to the drawing board for a dull white-silver aluminum looking paint... Progress!!! Getting the block "home" is a major step. Do you have all the other parts? As for the '68, I remember my '72 very fondly. So I can understand the bittersweet emotions. But just think of all the parts you can now buy. And, I agree with you - the quest continues for an XLS-like paint. That ain't it. I'll perfect sealing wax, I mean fog lamp bezels, and you perfect XLS trim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ford F834 Posted February 9, 2018 Share Posted February 9, 2018 Progress!!! Getting the block "home" is a major step. Do you have all the other parts? I have "a lot" of the parts, but not all. This is turning out to be a very expensive engine to build. I have the pistons with ceramic coat and total seal 2nd rings which is a grand in itself. I have the bottom end main girdle and chromoly stud set. The crank is perfect. I have the R&D cam. I have the special mls head gaskets. The oil pump and lifters are perfect and better than the junk replacements that you can buy. Even the new dealership lifters are known to have problems and you are better off re-using the old ones if they are not too worn. My outstanding parts shopping list includes main and rod bearings, wrist pin bushings (hoping to find a nos set), ring set (the rest of the regular ones), ARP 2000 head stud set, oem engine gasket set, and engine rotating assembly balance job. I am getting there but I have a ways to go yet... As for the '68, I remember my '72 very fondly. So I can understand the bittersweet emotions. But just think of all the parts you can now buy. Yes, at least some of it is bound to turn itself into engine parts! 😉 And, I agree with you - the quest continues for an XLS-like paint. That ain't it. I'll perfect sealing wax, I mean fog lamp bezels, and you perfect XLS trim. Teamwork Gary! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 9, 2018 Author Share Posted February 9, 2018 Progress!!! Getting the block "home" is a major step. Do you have all the other parts? I have "a lot" of the parts, but not all. This is turning out to be a very expensive engine to build. I have the pistons with ceramic coat and total seal 2nd rings which is a grand in itself. I have the bottom end main girdle and chromoly stud set. The crank is perfect. I have the R&D cam. I have the special mls head gaskets. The oil pump and lifters are perfect and better than the junk replacements that you can buy. Even the new dealership lifters are known to have problems and you are better off re-using the old ones if they are not too worn. My outstanding parts shopping list includes main and rod bearings, wrist pin bushings (hoping to find a nos set), ring set (the rest of the regular ones), ARP 2000 head stud set, oem engine gasket set, and engine rotating assembly balance job. I am getting there but I have a ways to go yet... As for the '68, I remember my '72 very fondly. So I can understand the bittersweet emotions. But just think of all the parts you can now buy. Yes, at least some of it is bound to turn itself into engine parts! 😉 And, I agree with you - the quest continues for an XLS-like paint. That ain't it. I'll perfect sealing wax, I mean fog lamp bezels, and you perfect XLS trim. Teamwork Gary! Engines are expensive to build, and much more expensive to have built. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted February 10, 2018 Share Posted February 10, 2018 Engines are expensive to build, and much more expensive to have built. Got the other 2 lips welded on and the welds ground down on all 4 lips. I also welded up the other holes that were rusted or cracked. I was thinking of cutting them out and welding in a sheet metal patch and then drill for the square holes but went a different way. I used a copper spoon and built up the area with weld and then ground it down. Still need to drill & square the holes yet. I also cut and welded 2 of the 4 sheet metal strips that finish off the lower part of the side panel that the bottom of the fender bolts to. I still need to grind the welds a little but most of the patch is behind the fender and will hardly be seen so I don't have to go crazy on getting it smooth. Tomorrow when I do the other 2 sheet metal strips I will also weld out more holes the PO drilled in the bed sides, I have done so already. I also ordered the carriage bolts and flanged lock nuts thru McMaster-Carr that will hold the sides to the floor, should be here Tuesday. Sorry no pictures, will get some tomorrow after I get all the welding done and the welds ground down. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 10, 2018 Author Share Posted February 10, 2018 Got the other 2 lips welded on and the welds ground down on all 4 lips. I also welded up the other holes that were rusted or cracked. I was thinking of cutting them out and welding in a sheet metal patch and then drill for the square holes but went a different way. I used a copper spoon and built up the area with weld and then ground it down. Still need to drill & square the holes yet. I also cut and welded 2 of the 4 sheet metal strips that finish off the lower part of the side panel that the bottom of the fender bolts to. I still need to grind the welds a little but most of the patch is behind the fender and will hardly be seen so I don't have to go crazy on getting it smooth. Tomorrow when I do the other 2 sheet metal strips I will also weld out more holes the PO drilled in the bed sides, I have done so already. I also ordered the carriage bolts and flanged lock nuts thru McMaster-Carr that will hold the sides to the floor, should be here Tuesday. Sorry no pictures, will get some tomorrow after I get all the welding done and the welds ground down. Dave ---- Dave - We will take the pics when you can get them. I didn't post any yesterday, either. But, you are making good progress. As for what I did: Played with an Arduino simulator and got the "sketch" (program) for the sender/gauge interface worked out. Started looking for a display to replace the clock and provide a way for the Arduino to communicate. Perhaps use it to replace the aftermarket oil pressure, water temp, and volt meter? Maybe to display info from the EEC, like AFR? The sky's the limit as the Arduino has lots of capability left after the interface, and temp, pressure, or voltage would be so easy to do. Powdercoated parts for Dad's truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PetesPonies Posted February 10, 2018 Share Posted February 10, 2018 I picked up my 7.3 block from the machinist and unloaded it into my dad's shop. I bid a bitter sweet farewell to my '68 F250. I am glad to be down to just the two bullnoses and I am definitely glad to end the Craigslist ad hassle (what a nightmare). It will be missed however... I remembered that I mail ordered som Motorcraft argent spray paint as a possible XLS bezel cloning paint. It is not even close. It is far too dark, far too much metal flake texture and it almost has that fake hammered finish look to it. Definitely a wheel paint. Here is is on a junk bezel: Not going to work... back to the drawing board for a dull white-silver aluminum looking paint... Have you tried AlumiBlast? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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