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WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?


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Mark/Dyn - I can't thank you enough. Those parts are going to make the conversion of Big Blue to EFI much, much easier. Having the right harness to convert it to MAF & SEFI instead of either using one of the SD and bank-fire harnesses that I have will be straightforward.

Bill - What is the best approach to burping a 460? I had assumed that filling it via a heater hose would be best, but what did you find worked?

Like most Ford products the heater core completely bypasses the thermostat.

There is a pipe (or in my case a nipple) directly from the water pump, and the other hose connects to an elbow on the front of the intake manifold. (before the thermostat)

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I just run it after filling it to make up what was lost (I remove the hoses at the heater and raise them up so I only lose a little) It takes longer in cold weather because the thermostat opens then immediately recloses. When I feel it is getting close to opening I rev the engine a bit for a minute or so to move coolant through everywhere. I usually end up adding about a quart more coolant in the radiator.

Now I need to go to AutoZone with the bad one and get a replacement for the next time.

That's about all you can do, I guess, if you are filling it via the heater hose and it is still low. Hadn't thought about the thermostat opening and then closing quickly. That would complicate things, for sure.

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Like most Ford products the heater core completely bypasses the thermostat.

There is a pipe (or in my case a nipple) directly from the water pump, and the other hose connects to an elbow on the front of the intake manifold. (before the thermostat)

I guess I should say *to* the water pump...

Anyway, if it is cold enough the thermostat might never open, if the heater core and hoses are shedding enough heat.

I've only seen this once, and it was -25°F.

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:nabble_smiley_good:

Spoiler alert no pictures…… To start it was30* outside and in the garage, took an hour with heater going flat out to getup to 40* and could not get it above 48* the 8 hours it was running.

It is work on the flare side bed time. Welded the lip on the bottom of the front header panel, also welded up all the holes the PO put in it. The lip was made from a cross brace from the style side bed floor I had to remove. Ground down the welds and it is ready for a little filler across the bottom where the lip was welded on when it is warmer. That took most of the day.

With the front panel done and fitting nice it was time to pull the bed apart. The running boards & side panels need to come off so I can finish trimming the floor sides back flush with the side panels. The floor has been marked for trimming when I was fitting everything together. Once the floor is trimmed I will stand it on end and clean & prep the underside for paint. I will also do a coat of roll on bed liner I have left over from the cab floor on the top side of the floor to make it look nice.

Before calling it a day and the side panels on horses I hammered & dolly the dents in them out. I have 2 more dents in the stake pocket area that will need my stud welder & stud dent puller to get out. Then I get to work on the side panel bottom lips…….OH JOY!

Dave ----

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Spoiler alert no pictures…… To start it was30* outside and in the garage, took an hour with heater going flat out to getup to 40* and could not get it above 48* the 8 hours it was running.

It is work on the flare side bed time. Welded the lip on the bottom of the front header panel, also welded up all the holes the PO put in it. The lip was made from a cross brace from the style side bed floor I had to remove. Ground down the welds and it is ready for a little filler across the bottom where the lip was welded on when it is warmer. That took most of the day.

With the front panel done and fitting nice it was time to pull the bed apart. The running boards & side panels need to come off so I can finish trimming the floor sides back flush with the side panels. The floor has been marked for trimming when I was fitting everything together. Once the floor is trimmed I will stand it on end and clean & prep the underside for paint. I will also do a coat of roll on bed liner I have left over from the cab floor on the top side of the floor to make it look nice.

Before calling it a day and the side panels on horses I hammered & dolly the dents in them out. I have 2 more dents in the stake pocket area that will need my stud welder & stud dent puller to get out. Then I get to work on the side panel bottom lips…….OH JOY!

Dave ----

Any progress is good, and you are making progress. :nabble_smiley_good:

As for what I did, very little. Pulled the sector box off of Huck and boxed it and the bolts/washers up for Brandon. And that's about it.

Happy New Year!!!

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Spoiler alert no pictures…… To start it was30* outside and in the garage, took an hour with heater going flat out to getup to 40* and could not get it above 48* the 8 hours it was running.

It is work on the flare side bed time. Welded the lip on the bottom of the front header panel, also welded up all the holes the PO put in it. The lip was made from a cross brace from the style side bed floor I had to remove. Ground down the welds and it is ready for a little filler across the bottom where the lip was welded on when it is warmer. That took most of the day.

With the front panel done and fitting nice it was time to pull the bed apart. The running boards & side panels need to come off so I can finish trimming the floor sides back flush with the side panels. The floor has been marked for trimming when I was fitting everything together. Once the floor is trimmed I will stand it on end and clean & prep the underside for paint. I will also do a coat of roll on bed liner I have left over from the cab floor on the top side of the floor to make it look nice.

Before calling it a day and the side panels on horses I hammered & dolly the dents in them out. I have 2 more dents in the stake pocket area that will need my stud welder & stud dent puller to get out. Then I get to work on the side panel bottom lips…….OH JOY!

Dave ----

Great progress Dave! :nabble_smiley_good:

I didn't do anything to my truck today except drive it to work.

My tile saw would freeze solid between cutting sessions in the tween temperatures.

The stock heater is working fine, and I know i need to let the pump run full time so the lines don't freeze but the aluminum hood would freeze to the blade and ice builds up on the carriage so it will not roll, nor will the tile sit flat or square on the ice.

Rubber gloves help keep your hands from sticking instantly to the saw or the tile.

Although the tiles do get stuck solid before I can get them inside.

I need to find time and $ to get my snow tires swapped on to my truck.

Sometimes I wish I had an extra set of rims.

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Great progress Dave! :nabble_smiley_good:

I didn't do anything to my truck today except drive it to work.

My tile saw would freeze solid between cutting sessions in the tween temperatures.

The stock heater is working fine, and I know i need to let the pump run full time so the lines don't freeze but the aluminum hood would freeze to the blade and ice builds up on the carriage so it will not roll, nor will the tile sit flat or square on the ice.

Rubber gloves help keep your hands from sticking instantly to the saw or the tile.

Although the tiles do get stuck solid before I can get them inside.

I need to find time and $ to get my snow tires swapped on to my truck.

Sometimes I wish I had an extra set of rims.

Work has my running LP gas this week. Up at 12am at work by 2am work till 3pm even Saturday.

Because of the cold temps here in NC the governor lifted the HOS (hours of service) us truck drivers run by so we can get heating products to customers.

Ice cube wet saw is not good!

What you need is a few fish tank heaters to keep the water warm LOL.

For the snow tires stock steel wheels work nice if you can find them. Then again any thing cheap and half way nice looking would work. Salt on alum wheels is not good.

Dave ----

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