WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?

[Powerman5K]

I'm in the process of changing out my clutch. Transmission is dropped and everything is ready to go. As usual, the pilot bearing is holding up the show. My guess is its the original. I've tried using 2 different types of pullers with no luck. The inner bearing has come out but the outer "sleeve" is seized. I've been fighting it for a couple of days now. Once that thing comes out, the rest of the job should only take a couple hours.

[Gary Lewis]

I'm in the process of changing out my clutch. Transmission is dropped and everything is ready to go. As usual, the pilot bearing is holding up the show. My guess is its the original. I've tried using 2 different types of pullers with no luck. The inner bearing has come out but the outer "sleeve" is seized. I've been fighting it for a couple of days now. Once that thing comes out, the rest of the job should only take a couple hours.

I think I had the same think happen. And if I remember correctly I wound up cutting a slit in the outer sleeve and getting it out with a chisel. But I can't imagine what I cut the slit with, so maybe I just collapsed it with a chisel?

Whatever, I do remember being under there for quite a while getting it done. And it was a pain! Things I considered included tapping the sleeve and running a bolt in against the crank to force it out. But I remember thinking the sleeve is probably hardened and won't be easy to thread. And I tried the puller idea, but there wasn't enough room behind the sleeve to get the arms in to grab the back end.

So good luck to you!

[85lebaront2]

I had some fun with Jiffy lube several times. First was our 1955 Packard Patrician, thing had a load of grease fittings 6 + the king pins on each side of the front suspension, 2 on each tie rod and 2 on the idler arm, 1 on the pitman arm.

Then there were 2 front torsion bar pivots and 2 rear, 2 levelizer bar pivots and 4 on the levelizer rods. 2 U-joints, the transmission shifter cross shaft had 1, so that is 28 that I can remember.

Next was the 1981 Omni, they broke the vacuum line tee connecting to the air filter, then claimed they had never touched it. When asked how they checked the air filter, the tech said "we took it off and opened it" Bingo, that's how you broke the tee. Then "we greased your upper and lower ball joints" on a Macpherson strut suspension, give me a break!

Final one was on Darth, full service including transmission (C6). They told me they couldn't drain the converter as a 1986 didn't have a drain plug. I told them if it didn't I would pay double for the service, if it did the service should be free. They didn't take that deal (I think someone figured out I knew better than they did).

Not to Darth yet, but as a down the road addition between the 2000 Lincoln Continental seats. It is a middle row console from a 2009 Flex, the one that has a refrigerator/freezer in it. Unit runs on 12v through a 15 amp fuse when the ignition is on, and may be limited if the battery is low.

Here is a picture with measurements:

Front view, side flanges are 2" wide on each side and have two hold down M6X1.0 bolts with large flat washers. Rear has two from the side into a bracket on the floor:

Front panel removed, you can see the control board and power/ground wiring:

Cool/Freeze switch:

Storage compartment lid (under the armrest pad):

Inside the storage compartment:

The section in front of the side mounting points is just to follow the floor pan step under the middle row of seats. There is nothing structural there, so anything in the way can be trimmed off.

[Gary Lewis]

Not to Darth yet, but as a down the road addition between the 2000 Lincoln Continental seats. It is a middle row console from a 2009 Flex, the one that has a refrigerator/freezer in it. Unit runs on 12v through a 15 amp fuse when the ignition is on, and may be limited if the battery is low.

Here is a picture with measurements:

Front view, side flanges are 2" wide on each side and have two hold down M6X1.0 bolts with large flat washers. Rear has two from the side into a bracket on the floor:

Front panel removed, you can see the control board and power/ground wiring:

Cool/Freeze switch:

Storage compartment lid (under the armrest pad):

Inside the storage compartment:

The section in front of the side mounting points is just to follow the floor pan step under the middle row of seats. There is nothing structural there, so anything in the way can be trimmed off.

Should be a very interesting addition, Bill. For reference the center console from a later model Bronco that I have in Big Blue is about 20" front/rear and I have the highest part 16" off the floor. That makes it a very nice height to serve as an arm rest.

[Powerman5K]

I think I had the same think happen. And if I remember correctly I wound up cutting a slit in the outer sleeve and getting it out with a chisel. But I can't imagine what I cut the slit with, so maybe I just collapsed it with a chisel?

Whatever, I do remember being under there for quite a while getting it done. And it was a pain! Things I considered included tapping the sleeve and running a bolt in against the crank to force it out. But I remember thinking the sleeve is probably hardened and won't be easy to thread. And I tried the puller idea, but there wasn't enough room behind the sleeve to get the arms in to grab the back end.

So good luck to you!

Finally got the sleeve out today using the same method you described. I use a cold chisel and bent it in on itself. Great feeling when it finally came out. Makes you do a psychotic laugh when it comes loose. I think my neighbors think I have a few screws loose.

[Gary Lewis]

Finally got the sleeve out today using the same method you described. I use a cold chisel and bent it in on itself. Great feeling when it finally came out. Makes you do a psychotic laugh when it comes loose. I think my neighbors think I have a few screws loose.

Congrat's! Yes, I know that feeling and may have given the same maniacal laugh.

[FuzzFace2]

I think I had the same think happen. And if I remember correctly I wound up cutting a slit in the outer sleeve and getting it out with a chisel. But I can't imagine what I cut the slit with, so maybe I just collapsed it with a chisel?

Whatever, I do remember being under there for quite a while getting it done. And it was a pain! Things I considered included tapping the sleeve and running a bolt in against the crank to force it out. But I remember thinking the sleeve is probably hardened and won't be easy to thread. And I tried the puller idea, but there wasn't enough room behind the sleeve to get the arms in to grab the back end.

So good luck to you!

I have not used this on a bearing but on a bushing.

Get a wooden dowel larger than the center of what you need out.

I then grind down the dowel for a vary tight fit but can be pulled out by hand.

Now how messy do you want to get?

You then pack the center with either wet bread or wheel bearing grease (messy) as full as you can.

Then take that wooden dowel nad a hammer and hammer in the bread or grease.

You may need to repack it a few times to drive it out all the way.

The tighter the dowel the better.

Dave ----

[FuzzFace2]

I think I had the same think happen. And if I remember correctly I wound up cutting a slit in the outer sleeve and getting it out with a chisel. But I can't imagine what I cut the slit with, so maybe I just collapsed it with a chisel?

Whatever, I do remember being under there for quite a while getting it done. And it was a pain! Things I considered included tapping the sleeve and running a bolt in against the crank to force it out. But I remember thinking the sleeve is probably hardened and won't be easy to thread. And I tried the puller idea, but there wasn't enough room behind the sleeve to get the arms in to grab the back end.

So good luck to you!

I have not used this on a bearing but on a bushing.

Get a wooden dowel larger than the center of what you need out.

I then grind down the dowel for a vary tight fit but can be pulled out by hand.

Now how messy do you want to get?

You then pack the center with either wet bread or wheel bearing grease (messy) as full as you can.

Then take that wooden dowel nad a hammer and hammer in the bread or grease.

You may need to repack it a few times to drive it out all the way.

The tighter the dowel the better.

Dave ----

Not today but yesterday.

I been using the truck to / from work last 4 days as wife's car would not crank after back from the dealer the day before, and she can't drive stick so left her the Durango.

Well a 1/4 mole from the house the motor side Zbar pivot broke again and had to "float gears" to get it home and rolled into the house garage.

After being up at 3am for work and it being 97*+ out and wanting to go to a car show the next day and knowing I had a new pivot I figured I would fit it.

Easier said than done. Trash had to be done first and look into why the wife's car would not crank and get it fixed if I could.

Son moved the car out of my garage, jump staring it that I did not know of at the time.

Used the garden tractor to move the truck from house to my garage. Pulled the broken part out was not hard just hot & dirty.

You know what happens when you buy a "spare part" you can never find it when needed so my son went to welding the broken part again for the 3rd time.

Wile he did that I took the right outside mirror off to tighten the pivot because every time closed the door it adjusted.

Got it back on went to adjust it and the pivot broke off the mount! At that point I had enough of the BS!

Went out to start the car now sitting in the yard to move to house garage and battery will not turn it over either!

Would not start with a jump start. Had to clean the battery connections, fill with water and then jump start.

I was done for the day.

Son had to get a new battery for the wife's car. it was 5+ years old, and go pick up dinner.

Still pissed at the truck so did not get out to garage to look again for the new part or order a new mirror, maybe tomorrow?

Dave ----

​​​​​​​ps you cant get the motor side pivot for a 300 six motor as it is NA

[ArdWrknTrk]

Not today but yesterday.

I been using the truck to / from work last 4 days as wife's car would not crank after back from the dealer the day before, and she can't drive stick so left her the Durango.

Well a 1/4 mole from the house the motor side Zbar pivot broke again and had to "float gears" to get it home and rolled into the house garage.

After being up at 3am for work and it being 97*+ out and wanting to go to a car show the next day and knowing I had a new pivot I figured I would fit it.

Easier said than done. Trash had to be done first and look into why the wife's car would not crank and get it fixed if I could.

Son moved the car out of my garage, jump staring it that I did not know of at the time.

Used the garden tractor to move the truck from house to my garage. Pulled the broken part out was not hard just hot & dirty.

You know what happens when you buy a "spare part" you can never find it when needed so my son went to welding the broken part again for the 3rd time.

Wile he did that I took the right outside mirror off to tighten the pivot because every time closed the door it adjusted.

Got it back on went to adjust it and the pivot broke off the mount! At that point I had enough of the BS!

Went out to start the car now sitting in the yard to move to house garage and battery will not turn it over either!

Would not start with a jump start. Had to clean the battery connections, fill with water and then jump start.

I was done for the day.

Son had to get a new battery for the wife's car. it was 5+ years old, and go pick up dinner.

Still pissed at the truck so did not get out to garage to look again for the new part or order a new mirror, maybe tomorrow?

Dave ----

​​​​​​​ps you cant get the motor side pivot for a 300 six motor as it is NA

A long time back I suggested having these unobtainable pivots CAD modeled (I-6 & V-8) so owners could get one 3D printed through Shapeways, Xometry, or another service.

While straight up scans of the part might need to be modified for finish machining if the pivot needs a reamed bore or polished OD the prints are quite strong and tight tolerance.

Cost should be reasonable as the volume is small.

Porsche has been doing this for their classic cars for quite some time.

And they print things that are pretty large like struts and control arms.

[ratdude747]

Today I was supposed to finish a parking brake cable replacement (both rear cables, left side rusted and seized)... but my coworker gave me and at least one other coworker COVID!

(Just flu symptoms... I was vaxxed but not boosted)

Worst part is I had the rear wheels off on jackstands... on asphalt, no plywood. That'll be fun to dig out when I'm feeling better enough to work on it.