Machspeed Posted January 23, 2021 Share Posted January 23, 2021 I have a jack, dose not work so guess I don't have a jack Lug wrench that may not fit my after market wheels & lugs I do have all the parts to mount the spare so good there but .......... no wheel to fit my truck Nice looking hitch I picked up a Reese Towpower universal off either Ebay or CL http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n86380/Reese%2520Hitch%2520part%2520%2523%252037096%2520002.jpg When I installed it as per the paper I felt the hitch was to low so I had to pull it apart, cut bolts, and flip the over and side to side to raise it up some. http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n86380/20191012_093706.jpg What you doing for light tie in and will you be running trailer brake in the truck? I use a Tee (Etrailer.com) between the frame harness and the tail light harness that had flat 4 connection. I cut the flat 4 off as my trailer uses a 7 pin flat connector. I also ran a trailer brake & power wire to the connector. I still need to mount the controller in the truck yet but have all the parts to do it. I have a 7pin to flat 4 adaptor I keep in the truck just incase. Dave ---- Dave, if you're talking to me, I use the same Tee that you use, though I may construct a bracket and permanently wire in a plug in. As for a trailer brake, I've never felt the need for one while hauling my Mustang, even with a heavy trailer. And, I've hauled it through some pretty hairy situations that I initially had concerns about, the Hill Country in Texas being one of them. And trust me, I know the benefits of trailer brakes. I've done lots of hauling. For me, just not necessary for my future needs. For months I searched for a cheap buy on a good quality hitch via Facebook Market and Craigslist. I even considered pulling one from a salvage yard. But, I wanted it to fit exactly as my newly installed unit fit. I got a great price at Etrailer and from pictures they supplied there, I knew before I got my unit how it would fit. I like it! That Reese unit you have looks very nice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted January 23, 2021 Share Posted January 23, 2021 I have a jack, dose not work so guess I don't have a jack Lug wrench that may not fit my after market wheels & lugs I do have all the parts to mount the spare so good there but .......... no wheel to fit my truck Nice looking hitch I picked up a Reese Towpower universal off either Ebay or CL http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n86380/Reese%2520Hitch%2520part%2520%2523%252037096%2520002.jpg When I installed it as per the paper I felt the hitch was to low so I had to pull it apart, cut bolts, and flip the over and side to side to raise it up some. http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n86380/20191012_093706.jpg What you doing for light tie in and will you be running trailer brake in the truck? I use a Tee (Etrailer.com) between the frame harness and the tail light harness that had flat 4 connection. I cut the flat 4 off as my trailer uses a 7 pin flat connector. I also ran a trailer brake & power wire to the connector. I still need to mount the controller in the truck yet but have all the parts to do it. I have a 7pin to flat 4 adaptor I keep in the truck just incase. Dave ---- Dave, if you're talking to me, I use the same Tee that you use, though I may construct a bracket and permanently wire in a plug in. As for a trailer brake, I've never felt the need for one while hauling my Mustang, even with a heavy trailer. And, I've hauled it through some pretty hairy situations that I initially had concerns about, the Hill Country in Texas being one of them. And trust me, I know the benefits of trailer brakes. I've done lots of hauling. For me, just not necessary for my future needs. For months I searched for a cheap buy on a good quality hitch via Facebook Market and Craigslist. I even considered pulling one from a salvage yard. But, I wanted it to fit exactly as my newly installed unit fit. I got a great price at Etrailer and from pictures they supplied there, I knew before I got my unit how it would fit. I like it! That Reese unit you have looks very nice! As for trailer brakes or not I am all for them. Just a FYI most states require them on trailers of 2500lb or more. That Tee makes wiring so easy I do like your hitch as it is made for the truck and tucks up nice. I could not really tell how low it would sit till I had other parts on the truck and it was on the ground. I was in the middle of building it when I cam across it and bolted it on. Think once I had the bumper in place when test fitting everything is when I knew it was to low. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted January 23, 2021 Share Posted January 23, 2021 I put a set of front and rear sway bars on Darth from a 1990 F250 2WD. The definitely improved the handling on corners, but the 168" wheelbase helps too as far as sweeping curves. On the king pins, are they new? If so were the bushings reamed properly or are yours plastic? I still have the original 1986 king pins in Darth and they are still well within tolerance, but I do grease them regularly. One day I will do sway bars to the truck, most likely when they fall into my lap LOL The kingpins were frozen on my truck and needed to be replaced. I was going to use and had bolted in the parts truck suspension as it was in great shape then fount out my wheels would not fit as the bolt pattern was different and did not have a set of wheels for them so have to have new bushings / pins installed in my setup. The is where the problem started. I was told by 4 different people there was only 1 shop that would press the bushings out / in and ream to size. Well they did do the pressing and reaming but when reaming they reamed EACH bushing to fit the pin from EACH side and not parallel so the pin would go through both bushings. I did not find this out for a few weeks latter when I went to mount the spindles to the beams and could not get the pins to fit. This also happened over Xmass / new years holiday and they are only open M-F like 8-4 and with my work hours I could not take them back like I should have. I used a brake cly hone to make the bushings larger for the pin to fit but I still had to drive them in a little. I do have a reamer now and should pull the front end apart to ream the bushings. Dave ---- I have an actual king pin bushing reamer. It has a long shaft with the adjustable cutters in the middle. There is a tapered cone guide that is placed in the end opposite the one being reamed so that the reaming is straight and in-line for both bushings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Wyatt Posted January 23, 2021 Share Posted January 23, 2021 I have an actual king pin bushing reamer. It has a long shaft with the adjustable cutters in the middle. There is a tapered cone guide that is placed in the end opposite the one being reamed so that the reaming is straight and in-line for both bushings. I installed my electric choke kit I bought a few weeks back from Mike's Carburetors. I used the stator to activate a relay to provide the 12 volts to the choke when the temperature sensor calls for it. It works great and I should have done this a long time ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 24, 2021 Share Posted January 24, 2021 I installed my electric choke kit I bought a few weeks back from Mike's Carburetors. I used the stator to activate a relay to provide the 12 volts to the choke when the temperature sensor calls for it. It works great and I should have done this a long time ago. Mike's is a great resource for documentation and parts. They have a pretty big YouTube library as well. That relay looks like it belongs there. I'm glad this is working well for you Frank! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Wyatt Posted January 24, 2021 Share Posted January 24, 2021 Mike's is a great resource for documentation and parts. They have a pretty big YouTube library as well. That relay looks like it belongs there. I'm glad this is working well for you Frank! Thanks. I wish I had better connectors to use but the parts house crimp connectors do work. For now. I can always get a better crimper and proper terminals and redo the relay wiring and re-pin the plug for a neater install later on. It's OK for now and the choke is working like new if not better than new. It needs a bath Bad! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 24, 2021 Author Share Posted January 24, 2021 Thanks. I wish I had better connectors to use but the parts house crimp connectors do work. For now. I can always get a better crimper and proper terminals and redo the relay wiring and re-pin the plug for a neater install later on. It's OK for now and the choke is working like new if not better than new. It needs a bath Bad! Good job! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted January 24, 2021 Share Posted January 24, 2021 I have an actual king pin bushing reamer. It has a long shaft with the adjustable cutters in the middle. There is a tapered cone guide that is placed in the end opposite the one being reamed so that the reaming is straight and in-line for both bushings. After the shop did it wrong I did buy one and it is in my tool box. From pictures, have not opened the package and had it over a year now, it should be the same as yours. Why the machine shop did not know to ream the pins that way I don't know and the guy I talked to was old enough to have dealt with kingpins to know. If I do pull it apart to ream I may run into an issue where the bushings may now be to loose because of how they reamed them and me honing them just to get the pins in. If so I will have to think real hard if I want to keep the pins or go with ball joints. If I go ball joints do I also go with lowering beams Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted January 24, 2021 Share Posted January 24, 2021 I installed my electric choke kit I bought a few weeks back from Mike's Carburetors. I used the stator to activate a relay to provide the 12 volts to the choke when the temperature sensor calls for it. It works great and I should have done this a long time ago.http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n86440/1-23-2021_161.jpghttp://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n86440/1-23-2021_159.jpghttp://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n86440/1-23-2021_158.jpg Mike did not have a 6 volt cap you could have used and just run a wire from the ALT to it like the factory did? Looks good Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Wyatt Posted January 24, 2021 Share Posted January 24, 2021 I installed my electric choke kit I bought a few weeks back from Mike's Carburetors. I used the stator to activate a relay to provide the 12 volts to the choke when the temperature sensor calls for it. It works great and I should have done this a long time ago.http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n86440/1-23-2021_161.jpghttp://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n86440/1-23-2021_159.jpghttp://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n86440/1-23-2021_158.jpg Mike did not have a 6 volt cap you could have used and just run a wire from the ALT to it like the factory did? Looks good Dave ---- The factory choke is hot air heated with electric assist. The kit I bought from Mike eliminates the hot air heated choke/electric assist for a straight electric choke. The little black cube is a heat sensor that goes under a head bolt that varies the voltage to the choke by a variable resistance to ground. In my mind just like a temp gauge sender works for your engine temp gauge. From my research the electric assist does not operate under a certain temp but I can't remember what temp or where I read that, possibly read that in my Haynes Ford Truck repair manual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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