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WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?


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What's the deal with the air gap and the thermostat?

Something doesn't look right to me?

That Air Gap intake is for a 351 Cleveland. Being that this is a 400 block I started with, the deck height is 1" taller, so I had to have custom CNC built intake adapters made by Price Motorsports to bridge the gap between the manifold ports and the cylinder heads...no different than if you tried to use a 302 intake on a 351W. I'm waiting on them to ship out.

Price are great people to deal with!

I meant the intake seems to overhang the water neck, but it may just be the photo angle.

I'm sure you have it sussed out.

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Price are great people to deal with!

I meant the intake seems to overhang the water neck, but it may just be the photo angle.

I'm sure you have it sussed out.

That's what I have heard. They told me their CNC was down when I called about a month or so ago to place the order. I called last week and they said my blanks were made and were almost done...they should be out this week. We shall see.

I see what you are saying...Its not actually /on/, I just kinda set it there for a photo opportunity :D

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What's the deal with the air gap and the thermostat?

Something doesn't look right to me?

That Air Gap intake is for a 351 Cleveland. Being that this is a 400 block I started with, the deck height is 1" taller, so I had to have custom CNC built intake adapters made by Price Motorsports to bridge the gap between the manifold ports and the cylinder heads...no different than if you tried to use a 302 intake on a 351W. I'm waiting on them to ship out.

Looking good, Angelo! Those are impressive numbers. You are going to love it!

I have a Trick Flow EFI upper and lower plenum for the Cleveland engine, so will use the Price Motorsports adapters on Dad's 400. They are a good problem solver.

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Looking good, Angelo! Those are impressive numbers. You are going to love it!

I have a Trick Flow EFI upper and lower plenum for the Cleveland engine, so will use the Price Motorsports adapters on Dad's 400. They are a good problem solver.

Definitely interested to see how you like the fuel injection on that combo.

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"Mild", so not only will it last, it's going to OUTlast the next ten sets of tires you put on the truck! :nabble_smiley_cool:

I hope your suspension mods get it to hook, and you don't spend too much on driveshaft and universals.

I went a bit overkill on it, but really I did it for reliability. The bottom end and heads are studded and has ARP rod bolts. I put Cometic MLS head gaskets on it, King A's and Clevite 77 bearings, did a roller cam conversion using 302/351W roller parts etc. There is an awful lot of non-Ford parts in this thingy-mabob. Didn't want to go into this to spend $$$ and have it come apart. I wanted to do it once and not again for a while. You don't want to know what the bill is so far LOL.

I didn't do a thing to the suspension except replace the front shocks and put a set of Lakewood traction bars on it with some 325/50/15 Nitto drag radial tires LOL. I'm taking the driveshaft to have it balanced and I get a set of Moog non-greasable universals. I wanted Spicer, but ordered locally and no one had them. The last real big things I need to do is call up the local Competition Transmission place and have my torque converter made and decide wether or not I want to buy a used/rebuild Winston cup locker for the rear end or put a brand new TrueTrac in it.

Either way, there is no reason this truck shouldn't rip!

Ditch that Lakewood bars and get https://www.calvertracing.com/caltracs.html

They are easy to adjust when the track changes.

DSCF0086.jpg.2c8608c0c357ce837f418a55ecbe4710.jpg

Have you looked in to a Detroit Locker for the rear?

DSCF0080.jpg.b8b23abb548c13bf016790f31f208b5d.jpg

I have run both in my drag Javelin, 4000 stall converter, 4.56 gear and 9" slicks and a junkyard 360 motor.

Dave_s2.jpg.e3e8e27e5f271ca486c85e02ad013ba9.jpg

Dave ----

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Oh God....😂 How do I access these??

Well I have 210 miles on my 16 gallon tank and it has only used a 1/4 tank?

I was thinking it should have ran out of gas or been close to it so on a whim I switched to the rear tank and it showed 1/4 tank??

Then it hit me the tank switching valve defaults to the rear tank and I have been running off the rear tank most of this time.

The valve is not even a year old and already gone belly up :nabble_smiley_cry:

Going to find another 3 port valve and hope it will last longer.

Dave ----

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Well I have 210 miles on my 16 gallon tank and it has only used a 1/4 tank?

I was thinking it should have ran out of gas or been close to it so on a whim I switched to the rear tank and it showed 1/4 tank??

Then it hit me the tank switching valve defaults to the rear tank and I have been running off the rear tank most of this time.

The valve is not even a year old and already gone belly up :nabble_smiley_cry:

Going to find another 3 port valve and hope it will last longer.

Dave ----

Who's valve are you using?

It seems they are all made by Pollak and rebranded as Wells, Airtek, CarQuest, etc...

Ford may make their own, but even that seems unlikely.

Are you sure it is the valve and not that the trigger wire is open?

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Who's valve are you using?

It seems they are all made by Pollak and rebranded as Wells, Airtek, CarQuest, etc...

Ford may make their own, but even that seems unlikely.

Are you sure it is the valve and not that the trigger wire is open?

It was a Standard FV1 or FV1T NIB I installed just before it went on the road as I also did not have any fuel in the tanks as I did not know how long before it would be on the road.

Now you could be right on the trigger wire as I did pull wires to the rear for the3 trailer brakes & power.

I will have to get under and check but I ordered one off Amazon for under $30 just in case.

All the parts stores list the 6 port valve for $95 - $130 and I would also need to get the pig tail to wire it to my truck.

Think it was Ebay listed a 6 port as a 3 port and had caps on the unused ports for $90.

And we know what happens to old caps :nabble_smiley_uh: and I would still need the pig tail.

Its a good thing I seen this now because I would have kept driving till I ran out of gas and flipped the switch only to see the rear tank was empty!

That is how I kind of found it was pulling from the rear tank, it was at a 1/4.

Dave ----

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Who's valve are you using?

It seems they are all made by Pollak and rebranded as Wells, Airtek, CarQuest, etc...

Ford may make their own, but even that seems unlikely.

Are you sure it is the valve and not that the trigger wire is open?

It was a Standard FV1 or FV1T NIB I installed just before it went on the road as I also did not have any fuel in the tanks as I did not know how long before it would be on the road.

Now you could be right on the trigger wire as I did pull wires to the rear for the3 trailer brakes & power.

I will have to get under and check but I ordered one off Amazon for under $30 just in case.

All the parts stores list the 6 port valve for $95 - $130 and I would also need to get the pig tail to wire it to my truck.

Think it was Ebay listed a 6 port as a 3 port and had caps on the unused ports for $90.

And we know what happens to old caps :nabble_smiley_uh: and I would still need the pig tail.

Its a good thing I seen this now because I would have kept driving till I ran out of gas and flipped the switch only to see the rear tank was empty!

That is how I kind of found it was pulling from the rear tank, it was at a 1/4.

Dave ----

Pollack makes them for Standard too

You can get the 6-port valve WITH pigtail for ~$75 delivered on eBay.

AMHIK.... :nabble_smiley_evil:

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