WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?

[85lebaront2]

Rob - Glad you got the booster changed out. It seems they'll go for a very long time hissing, but it sure is nice when they don't.

Angelo - That's cool stuff. I've not ever seen that. May need to try it. Do you get it in rolls?

Gary, same thing I put on Darth, found it a PnP in Virginia Beach.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Gary, same thing I put on Darth, found it a PnP in Virginia Beach.

Bill - I'll have to go looking.

Jim - Good luck on the seat. I can't imagine getting it in by myself w/o hitting a sub. It is tough enough w/o anything in the cab.

[fr0bert]

Rob - Glad you got the booster changed out. It seems they'll go for a very long time hissing, but it sure is nice when they don't.

Angelo - That's cool stuff. I've not ever seen that. May need to try it. Do you get it in rolls?

Amen to that! As a follow up, in my haste to get the booster and MC on it never even occured to me to consider sealing or painting them, I've a feeling these are going to be spotting with rust fairly soon.

Anybody done this while the parts are on the vehicle or have any tips?

Thanks!

[ArdWrknTrk]

Bill - I'll have to go looking.

Jim - Good luck on the seat. I can't imagine getting it in by myself w/o hitting a sub. It is tough enough w/o anything in the cab.

I guess my option is to lay a board or something across the cab, over the baby (Sub) sub, and strap the seat folded like a sleeper sofa.

Then I could slide the board out and have it drop in place.

First I have to clear out all the mounting holes for seat and belts.

I think I'll take a torch to a piece of 3/4 copper and melt my way to the cab floor through the thin mat and all the insulation.

[Gary Lewis]

I guess my option is to lay a board or something across the cab, over the baby (Sub) sub, and strap the seat folded like a sleeper sofa.

Then I could slide the board out and have it drop in place.

First I have to clear out all the mounting holes for seat and belts.

I think I'll take a torch to a piece of 3/4 copper and melt my way to the cab floor through the thin mat and all the insulation.

Rob - In my experience the cast iron master cylinders leak brake fluid where the top meets the body, and the brake fluid will destroy the paint. The leak is caused by a rough surface at the top of the master, and I've had to resort to filing it to get the cap to seal. But to make sure I didn't get filings in the master I stuffed paper towels in it to capture the filings. And that meant I had to bleed the brakes again. But it worked.

Your new master might not leak, but I'd drive it awhile to see before painting it.

Jim - that might work. I've strapped the seat folded down, but a board might get you over the sub. You'll just have fun getting it out.

Dunno about the insulation, but a heated piece of tubing should cut a hole in the sound deadener nicely.

[FuzzFace2]

Amen to that! As a follow up, in my haste to get the booster and MC on it never even occured to me to consider sealing or painting them, I've a feeling these are going to be spotting with rust fairly soon.

Anybody done this while the parts are on the vehicle or have any tips?

Thanks!

If you need to "tape off" the area around them sometimes paper & tape just don't cut it try tin foil.

You can wrap it around things like wire & hoses and it will hold its forum.

If needed could use tape here-n-there to hold it works great.

My new / rebuilt booster was painted but not the master. Like you in my hast I forgot to paint it but I am not to worried its a driver not a show truck LOL

Dave ----

[Angelo Voltura]

Rob - In my experience the cast iron master cylinders leak brake fluid where the top meets the body, and the brake fluid will destroy the paint. The leak is caused by a rough surface at the top of the master, and I've had to resort to filing it to get the cap to seal. But to make sure I didn't get filings in the master I stuffed paper towels in it to capture the filings. And that meant I had to bleed the brakes again. But it worked.

Your new master might not leak, but I'd drive it awhile to see before painting it.

Jim - that might work. I've strapped the seat folded down, but a board might get you over the sub. You'll just have fun getting it out.

Dunno about the insulation, but a heated piece of tubing should cut a hole in the sound deadener nicely.

Gary, I am sure you can buy it in rolls, its pretty much generic weather stripping, but the factory stuff off the later truck I have found to be far thicker and sturdier than any run of the mill weather stripping you can buy. Let me see if I can dig up the OE part number.

[Gary Lewis]

Gary, I am sure you can buy it in rolls, its pretty much generic weather stripping, but the factory stuff off the later truck I have found to be far thicker and sturdier than any run of the mill weather stripping you can buy. Let me see if I can dig up the OE part number.

That would be great! Thanks, Angelo.

[Angelo Voltura]

That would be great! Thanks, Angelo.

No problem, here's a really good example on where to find them off a 92-96 truck. They bridge the gap between the grille and core support. They should be readily available in any yard and will slip right on the lip of bullnose fenders.

 

[FuzzFace2]

No problem, here's a really good example on where to find them off a 92-96 truck. They bridge the gap between the grille and core support. They should be readily available in any yard and will slip right on the lip of bullnose fenders.

So they are used to force all the air to go thru the condenser & radiator.

I know our trucks have a "filler" that goes between the radiator support and the radiator on AC trucks at top.

Dave ----