WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?

[ArdWrknTrk]

When I go to Pick-n-Pull, I carry my DeWalt cordless set, and can really get stuff off fast. They do allow cutoff wheels due to fire hazard as a lot of the people going there really don't know how to use them. I carry the tools in a bag and the battery charger and an inverter so I can charge them if needed.

Jim, how hard would it be to pull those two air deflectors off the radiator support? They might help airflow on Darth, I have the lower piece behind the bumper and the little top piece that closes the radiator to support gap.

I can go back and get them.

I don't know if I can save the Christmas trees though.

[85lebaront2]

I can go back and get them.

I don't know if I can save the Christmas trees though.

Christmas trees are no problem, I usually replace them anyway.

[FuzzFace2]

I may have an oval bit for you. But mine goes side-to-side. Is that ok or do you need front-to-rear?

Anyway, it is looking good! It takes lots of assembly/disassembly/trim/test/etc to get things right. Will you use plated bolts or stainless? And what will you trim the floor with? As I told Jim on the phone earlier, I'm nursing a ...... scratch where my 3" cutoff wheel got me today, so please be careful - they bite.

I needed the front to rear bit

Thanks on how its looking and yes lots of assembly/disassembly/trim/test/etc. Like groundhog day over & over LOL.

On the hardware I would like to use stainless, then I don't have to paint the heads. Guess I don't have to paint the plated but they do not stand up to the weather all that well.

Then again plated is cheaper and there are some bolts I have not seen kits for (have not really looked either) like the running boards.

And as we all know the banker (wife) has the final word what I can spend

What is meant about "trim the floor with?" The floor has LineX bed liner on it that I am leaving as it is a PITA to get off. I will put a coat or 2 of roll on bed liner left over from the cab floor to cover the white paint I put on to see where I marked the floor for trimming/cutting.

Once the floor is painted and on the truck frame the front & side panels sit on top of the floor just like if it was the wood and gets bolted down.

Sorry to hear about that hungry cut off wheel that bit you.

I fear one of the cut off wheels "blowing apart" when using them. I try not to stand in the line of fire when using them. So far I am using a sheet metal plasma cutter, a Sawzall and a few 4" cut off wheels and all safety gear when using them.

Dave ----

[Gary Lewis]

Gary,

Should I throw these radiator support washers in an envelope to you, or bring them down to Bill when I drop off his stuff?

Missed this. Throw the washers in an envelope and I'll talk to Bill about what color he wants them to be. Thanks.

[Gary Lewis]

I may have an oval bit for you. But mine goes side-to-side. Is that ok or do you need front-to-rear?

Anyway, it is looking good! It takes lots of assembly/disassembly/trim/test/etc to get things right. Will you use plated bolts or stainless? And what will you trim the floor with? As I told Jim on the phone earlier, I'm nursing a ...... scratch where my 3" cutoff wheel got me today, so please be careful - they bite.

I needed the front to rear bit

Thanks on how its looking and yes lots of assembly/disassembly/trim/test/etc. Like groundhog day over & over LOL.

On the hardware I would like to use stainless, then I don't have to paint the heads. Guess I don't have to paint the plated but they do not stand up to the weather all that well.

Then again plated is cheaper and there are some bolts I have not seen kits for (have not really looked either) like the running boards.

And as we all know the banker (wife) has the final word what I can spend

What is meant about "trim the floor with?" The floor has LineX bed liner on it that I am leaving as it is a PITA to get off. I will put a coat or 2 of roll on bed liner left over from the cab floor to cover the white paint I put on to see where I marked the floor for trimming/cutting.

Once the floor is painted and on the truck frame the front & side panels sit on top of the floor just like if it was the wood and gets bolted down.

Sorry to hear about that hungry cut off wheel that bit you.

I fear one of the cut off wheels "blowing apart" when using them. I try not to stand in the line of fire when using them. So far I am using a sheet metal plasma cutter, a Sawzall and a few 4" cut off wheels and all safety gear when using them.

Dave ----

Dave - I think you answered the question about how you are going to trim the metal - plasma cutter, cut off wheels, and sawsall - with protective gear.

[FuzzFace2]

Dave - I think you answered the question about how you are going to trim the metal - plasma cutter, cut off wheels, and sawsall - with protective gear.

Oh that trimming. I used the plasma to remove the side walls. Thing is because of the liner it would catch fire and remain sticky and a mess to work with.

The cut off wheels if used near the liner also would melt it and gum up the wheel.

The best was sawzall and what I used when getting closer to the final "trim line" as it would not melt the liner.

I also used a flap wheel disc on my angle grinder to et really close to the line.

I may have trimmed the front floor a little short so I will need to make the "L" lip on the front panel to repair rust a little longer to reach the floor.

Did a little more work on the bed.

Got the front cross member and support brackets for the running boards and lower front side panels worked out.

Need to pick up some hardware and drill a few holes and the front will be done.

I then started on the rear support brackets and rear panel.

The style side floor is longer by about 2" and if I keep it I cant use a stock tail gate.

I am thinking of trimming the 2" off and welding in the flare side rear panel as seen in the picture.

Dave ----

[Gary Lewis]

Dave - I think you answered the question about how you are going to trim the metal - plasma cutter, cut off wheels, and sawsall - with protective gear.

Oh that trimming. I used the plasma to remove the side walls. Thing is because of the liner it would catch fire and remain sticky and a mess to work with.

The cut off wheels if used near the liner also would melt it and gum up the wheel.

The best was sawzall and what I used when getting closer to the final "trim line" as it would not melt the liner.

I also used a flap wheel disc on my angle grinder to et really close to the line.

I may have trimmed the front floor a little short so I will need to make the "L" lip on the front panel to repair rust a little longer to reach the floor.

Did a little more work on the bed.

Got the front cross member and support brackets for the running boards and lower front side panels worked out.

Need to pick up some hardware and drill a few holes and the front will be done.

I then started on the rear support brackets and rear panel.

The style side floor is longer by about 2" and if I keep it I cant use a stock tail gate.

I am thinking of trimming the 2" off and welding in the flare side rear panel as seen in the picture.

Dave ----

Dave - I'm lost as to what you mean about welding in the flare side rear panel. Can you explain that a bit more? I'm old and slow.

[FuzzFace2]

Dave - I'm lost as to what you mean about welding in the flare side rear panel. Can you explain that a bit more? I'm old and slow.

Sure, The style side rear panel under the tail gate and above the bumper is flat across the top & bottom. Sorry don't have a picture of it but look at any of your trucks.

The flare side rear panel is flat across the top but the bottom is not and has, lets call it "cut outs", for the bumper brackets. It also comes down a little lower than the style side panel.

In the picture is the flare side rear panel clamped to the style side and the top of the "cut out" is even with the lower edge of the style side rear panel behind it.

The welding part is across the top of the rear panel. The floor was bent 90* down making a lip and the panel was spot welded to that lip, the little silver dots in the picture.

Also where the bed bolts are there are brackets welded to the panel to help support the middle of it.

It will take some work to get the panel grafted onto the style side rear cross member.

Dave ----

[ArdWrknTrk]

Missed this. Throw the washers in an envelope and I'll talk to Bill about what color he wants them to be. Thanks.

Done.

Fabbed some really heavy duty taillights for the flatbed and installed them today (welded them on the frame)

Removed the parking brake from the Zf and bolted it to a half pallet.

I'm going to clean it up a bit before stretch wrapping it.

Tonight I go to help Theo pluck the cab off the Superduty. (and get Bill's radiator wings)

[Gary Lewis]

Done.

Fabbed some really heavy duty taillights for the flatbed and installed them today (welded them on the frame)

Removed the parking brake from the Zf and bolted it to a half pallet.

I'm going to clean it up a bit before stretch wrapping it.

Tonight I go to help Theo pluck the cab off the Superduty. (and get Bill's radiator wings)

Dave - Got it. Thanks for the explanation. And, by the way, those "silver dots" sure look uniform.

Jim - You are one busy guy. That F450 is going to a whole bunch of good homes.

As for what I did to my "huck", I removed the driver's door. Had forgotten how heavy a full-loaded door, with glass and power window/lock mechanisms, is. Or, maybe I'm getting old? Also pulled the 'puter and its mounting bracket out of the truck, along with the parking brake mechanism. Bit by bit.......

Then, I actually did a bit of test-fitting on Dad's truck. Looks like there's an absolutely perfect spot for the 'puter under the seat base that'll hold the Bronco buckets. Right next to the hole in the floor where the original computer wires came through.