salans7 Posted October 12, 2019 Share Posted October 12, 2019 Shaun - An "itch" caused you to pull the whole front clip? Hope you don't get poison ivy! I originally hung it with bolts only threaded in a few turns so that I could easily pull it all back off when it came time to do the radiator bushings. I need to do the bushings so I can adjust the fenders to the doors and not have to mess with them any more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted October 12, 2019 Share Posted October 12, 2019 I installed my "calibrated" oil pressure gauge in Darth, success! 0 psi is on the red line at the left side, 50 psi is centered between R and M in NORMAL, 25 psi is on the N. So I can get an idea without trying to look at the mechanical on the bottom of the dash at night with no light on it. That's good to know. Mine runs right in the middle of the "M" when cruising, and in the middle of the "R" at hot idle. I think that's pretty good, but it IS a freshly built engine. I seem to recall them telling me it was at 55 psi during my dyno/break-in day. Well I think I may have found the cause of my engine running rough and the vibration...my carb spacer is warped and twisted...melted...etc. I have to hang my head in shame here. This spacer was only supposed to be temporary, and with the truck sitting for almost a year, I forgot that it was relatively urgent that this spacer be replaced with an aluminum one. In any case, now I know... Not sure how much it matters, but there was certainly one bad visible leak from the front left barrel to the rear left barrel. That was the carb side of the spacer. The intake side was much worse... You can't really tell from the pictures just how bad it is. Not only is the thing FAR from flat, the 4 holes aren't even round anymore...lol. They're more egg shaped. I think it's safe to say that my carb wasn't sealing very well. I checked the carb mounting bolts a couple days ago and found them to be somewhat loose...so then I remembered that these carb spacers are kind of a known issue... The bad part is the truck is out of commission until I get a new (aluminum) spacer. I have another new Phenolic spacer, but it's the hollow type and will not seal on my Edelbrock intake. See below. Bugger. Not sure what kind of symptoms a warped and poorly sealing spacer would cause... How about vibration and a low load stumble? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 12, 2019 Author Share Posted October 12, 2019 Well I think I may have found the cause of my engine running rough and the vibration...my carb spacer is warped and twisted...melted...etc. I have to hang my head in shame here. This spacer was only supposed to be temporary, and with the truck sitting for almost a year, I forgot that it was relatively urgent that this spacer be replaced with an aluminum one. In any case, now I know... Not sure how much it matters, but there was certainly one bad visible leak from the front left barrel to the rear left barrel. That was the carb side of the spacer. The intake side was much worse... You can't really tell from the pictures just how bad it is. Not only is the thing FAR from flat, the 4 holes aren't even round anymore...lol. They're more egg shaped. I think it's safe to say that my carb wasn't sealing very well. I checked the carb mounting bolts a couple days ago and found them to be somewhat loose...so then I remembered that these carb spacers are kind of a known issue... The bad part is the truck is out of commission until I get a new (aluminum) spacer. I have another new Phenolic spacer, but it's the hollow type and will not seal on my Edelbrock intake. See below. Bugger. Not sure what kind of symptoms a warped and poorly sealing spacer would cause... How about vibration and a low load stumble? Well, I think you found a melted and smoking gun. Yipes! That thing would cause all sorts of problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted October 12, 2019 Share Posted October 12, 2019 Well, I think you found a melted and smoking gun. Yipes! That thing would cause all sorts of problems. Ya Gary, I hope so. If this smooths this thing back out it will be a pretty easy (and cheap) fix! I can't believe I forgot about this (or forgot about all the stories I read about these spacers getting warped...lol). The bottom side was really bad...funny it was sealing at all. Where is that face/palm emoji?>..lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Posted October 12, 2019 Share Posted October 12, 2019 Well I think I may have found the cause of my engine running rough and the vibration...my carb spacer is warped and twisted...melted...etc. I have to hang my head in shame here. This spacer was only supposed to be temporary, and with the truck sitting for almost a year, I forgot that it was relatively urgent that this spacer be replaced with an aluminum one. In any case, now I know... Not sure how much it matters, but there was certainly one bad visible leak from the front left barrel to the rear left barrel. That was the carb side of the spacer. The intake side was much worse... You can't really tell from the pictures just how bad it is. Not only is the thing FAR from flat, the 4 holes aren't even round anymore...lol. They're more egg shaped. I think it's safe to say that my carb wasn't sealing very well. I checked the carb mounting bolts a couple days ago and found them to be somewhat loose...so then I remembered that these carb spacers are kind of a known issue... The bad part is the truck is out of commission until I get a new (aluminum) spacer. I have another new Phenolic spacer, but it's the hollow type and will not seal on my Edelbrock intake. See below. Bugger. Not sure what kind of symptoms a warped and poorly sealing spacer would cause... How about vibration and a low load stumble? Well, I personally didn't do much, but I didn't really care for the 16-inch, black steel wheels that were on the truck when I bought it. Nor the old, larger tires on the rear. I was able to find a set of the original argent spoked wheels with trim rings that were in decent shape and true. With a new set of tires, the truck continues on its journey towards a more original look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted October 12, 2019 Share Posted October 12, 2019 Well, I personally didn't do much, but I didn't really care for the 16-inch, black steel wheels that were on the truck when I bought it. Nor the old, larger tires on the rear. I was able to find a set of the original argent spoked wheels with trim rings that were in decent shape and true. With a new set of tires, the truck continues on its journey towards a more original look. Looks great Kevin, much better! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted October 12, 2019 Share Posted October 12, 2019 Looks great Kevin, much better! Cory, what killed the spacer? You didn't have a carb fire so what melted it? Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted October 13, 2019 Share Posted October 13, 2019 Cory, what killed the spacer? You didn't have a carb fire so what melted it? Dave ---- Dave, Just the engine heat, I guess? I'm fairly inexperienced with this stuff, so I can't give much of an explanation. I did do some reading on these spacers a while back and I thought the general consensus was that if you must run one (a plastic one) then you'll also have to replace them when they fail. Probably not a big deal on a track car that's being worked on all the time, but for a summer cruiser this is a pain. Funny how one's memory works isn't it?... I distinctly remember thinking that I had to replace this spacer, but forgot about it. In any case, I'm going to swap in an aluminum spacer and get this baby all sealed back up and then install my new O2 sensor/gauge kit and find out where everything is running. Problem is, I'm kinda running out of good weather....but anyway... The other thing I'm leaning towards is swapping out the Holley 4160 600 CFM for a 500 CFM carb like the Summit M2008. I've been reading that this Summit carb is actually a refresh of an discontinued Holley design (a 4110 or something?). Anyway, I have some reading to do on the topic...more on that later;). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 13, 2019 Author Share Posted October 13, 2019 Cory, what killed the spacer? You didn't have a carb fire so what melted it? Dave ---- Dave, Just the engine heat, I guess? I'm fairly inexperienced with this stuff, so I can't give much of an explanation. I did do some reading on these spacers a while back and I thought the general consensus was that if you must run one (a plastic one) then you'll also have to replace them when they fail. Probably not a big deal on a track car that's being worked on all the time, but for a summer cruiser this is a pain. Funny how one's memory works isn't it?... I distinctly remember thinking that I had to replace this spacer, but forgot about it. In any case, I'm going to swap in an aluminum spacer and get this baby all sealed back up and then install my new O2 sensor/gauge kit and find out where everything is running. Problem is, I'm kinda running out of good weather....but anyway... The other thing I'm leaning towards is swapping out the Holley 4160 600 CFM for a 500 CFM carb like the Summit M2008. I've been reading that this Summit carb is actually a refresh of an discontinued Holley design (a 4110 or something?). Anyway, I have some reading to do on the topic...more on that later;). I think the Summit carb is based the old Autolite 4100 design. There's an excellent article on it in Hemmings. And I think Rick/Fonzie is running one and loves it. It is basically a 4bbl version of the 2100 and is said to be a very reliable carb. And its annular boosters are supposed to provide good atomization of the fuel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted October 13, 2019 Share Posted October 13, 2019 I think the Summit carb is based the old Autolite 4100 design. There's an excellent article on it in Hemmings. And I think Rick/Fonzie is running one and loves it. It is basically a 4bbl version of the 2100 and is said to be a very reliable carb. And its annular boosters are supposed to provide good atomization of the fuel. Gary, the Summit carbs seem to get good reviews from what I've been reading. Below is a clip from a Mustang forum...I believe from about 10 years ago. "Well, it looks like I'm the Guinea Pig on this one. Since I have a wideband O2 setup and vacuum gage mounted in the car, I figure my mild 306 would be a good test platform for the “new” Summit MO8600VS 600 cfm carburetor. The package was originally set to be sent on 1/30/2009 but arrived at my door on 1/15/2009. Before the purchase, I made a couple of calls to satisfy my curiosity about this carb which, as many have pointed out, looks strangely like a Holley 4010. As we all know, the 4010 was born from the venerable and streetable Autolite 4100. According to the Summit rep I spoke to, Holley destroyed the original molds for the old 4010 carburetor. The “guy” who designed the 4010 also helped design the Summit version… making improvements on the shortcomings of the 4010, and Holley supposedly makes these carbs for Summit. The box says “Assembled in USA but I still can’t get a straight answer on how (or if) China is involved. Anyway, I took apart the carb, checked everything out and took some pics. Enjoy." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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