WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?

[Gary Lewis]

Interesting, I have the factory limited slip in Darth, biggest issue I run into, one of my neighbors has a deep piled, not packed down gravel driveway, if I try to turn around the front wheels will get stuck in the loose gravel and if I am not careful the rear duals will start spinning and spray it everywhere.

Locking differentials, my 1966 GT350 had a 3.89 gear with a Detroit Locker which is a ratchet style unit. The faster turning axle freewheels so on a turn the inside rear does all the driving. I never had a problem in either rain or even snow. I think the wheelbase on the early Mustangs was 106", but the weight distribution was on the order of 55/45 so it wasn't super nose heavy at 2800 lbs (amazing what some light front end parts and limited sound deadening does). I could spin both rear wheels very easily if I wanted to, but in the 11 years I owned it, had learned how to drive it smoothly.

Ray - Missed your post. We've missed you. And while it is hail season here, we've not had any this summer. Nor have we had any rain. The lake is down 2' and the grass is withering.

Dave - Missed your post as well. Have you figured out how to sand the hood? I could ask my paint/body guy if he has any tips if you'd like.

As for the diff, that would be a hoot in such a short wheelbased vehicle. At least on Big Blue the 133" gives you a bit of time to react, although it seemed instantaneous.

Bill - The factory clutches were totally worn out on Dad's truck when I got it. We got stuck in a pasture with one wheel spinning and had to use 4wd to get out. But it won't spin now - the clutches are Kevlar and they really hold.

Big Blue's Detroit Trutrac diff's are supposed to be friendly and gently, according to their webpage:

Operation of the Truetrac is smooth, quiet and automatic. The unit will engage without any driver knowledge or action required.

And, while the bit about smooth and quiet is true, the bit about no driver action required may be a bit of a stretch. Unless you don't mind crashing you'd better take some action quickly, like backing off the throttle. That thing would have gone right on around had I not backed off on the first corner as I hit it a bit too fast and had plenty of momentum in the rear to bring it around. But on the second corner I probably could have held it sideways for quite a while since I hit the corner slower and was expecting it.

Still, it may prove to be difficult to drive for the uninitiated in snow. I grew up slip-sliding away, regardless of the nearness of my destination, so understand a bit about what can happen and what to do about it. I'm not sure how experienced my offspring are in that regard.

[FuzzFace2]

Dave - Missed your post as well. Have you figured out how to sand the hood? I could ask my paint/body guy if he has any tips if you'd like.

As for the diff, that would be a hoot in such a short wheelbased vehicle. At least on Big Blue the 133" gives you a bit of time to react, although it seemed instantaneous.

I have not put any time in on the hood, body work and hate doing it. I don't really see a way short of some how supporting the open area. You cant push it up too high or when you pull it out it is now too low.

It would not be bad if your eye would not really see it like the roof and mine has it's own "rolling hills" but the hood is not the place that works.

I have to dig the hood out that came on the truck and look it over but I think that's the way I will be going.

On the rear / locker you had to be on your A game!

In the dry because the rear was locked, when under normal power turning corners the tires would squeal. You had to watch for police for "improper start" tickets so in the glove box with the reg & insur papers I had the paper for the locker that said would make noise on corners.

If you went real easy it would hardly make noise.

If you were rolling (off the power) around corners the locker would make clicking noise that everyone could hear. Yep even people on the corner would turn and look it was that loud.

Once you knew what the car would do in the rain it was fun but I would not use the car if I knew it was going to rain just to be safe.

Dave ----

[85lebaront2]

Dave - Missed your post as well. Have you figured out how to sand the hood? I could ask my paint/body guy if he has any tips if you'd like.

As for the diff, that would be a hoot in such a short wheelbased vehicle. At least on Big Blue the 133" gives you a bit of time to react, although it seemed instantaneous.

I have not put any time in on the hood, body work and hate doing it. I don't really see a way short of some how supporting the open area. You cant push it up too high or when you pull it out it is now too low.

It would not be bad if your eye would not really see it like the roof and mine has it's own "rolling hills" but the hood is not the place that works.

I have to dig the hood out that came on the truck and look it over but I think that's the way I will be going.

On the rear / locker you had to be on your A game!

In the dry because the rear was locked, when under normal power turning corners the tires would squeal. You had to watch for police for "improper start" tickets so in the glove box with the reg & insur papers I had the paper for the locker that said would make noise on corners.

If you went real easy it would hardly make noise.

If you were rolling (off the power) around corners the locker would make clicking noise that everyone could hear. Yep even people on the corner would turn and look it was that loud.

Once you knew what the car would do in the rain it was fun but I would not use the car if I knew it was going to rain just to be safe.

Dave ----

From the information on the Lock Right Locker, it looks like my Detroit Locker I had in my Shelby, it was for a 9" Ford with 31 spline axles (Carroll didn't take chances on things failing on the track). It used to scare the h*** out of the uninitiated but the weight distribution and the F70-14 tires along with the 106" wheelbase helped. When I autocrossed it I ran G60-15 tires recaped with Goodyear racing rubber. I can appreciate the squirreliness of the Germlin, AMC's V8s are a bit heavier than the small Windsor blocks, but my first car was a 1964 Falcon 2dr sedan with a 260 V8, factory A/C and 3 speed, 102" wheelbase and the engine sat way forward compared to a Mustang. For reference, the motor mount brackets on the Falcon were mounted in front of the lower control arm pivot, on the Mustangs it is the same piece swapped side for side so it sits behind the lower control arm pivot. On the Falcon I had almost no room between the factory flex fan and the radiator, on the Shelby, same radiator, 4" spacer between the 4 blade fan and water pump pulley.

[Gary Lewis]

From the information on the Lock Right Locker, it looks like my Detroit Locker I had in my Shelby, it was for a 9" Ford with 31 spline axles (Carroll didn't take chances on things failing on the track). It used to scare the h*** out of the uninitiated but the weight distribution and the F70-14 tires along with the 106" wheelbase helped. When I autocrossed it I ran G60-15 tires recaped with Goodyear racing rubber. I can appreciate the squirreliness of the Germlin, AMC's V8s are a bit heavier than the small Windsor blocks, but my first car was a 1964 Falcon 2dr sedan with a 260 V8, factory A/C and 3 speed, 102" wheelbase and the engine sat way forward compared to a Mustang. For reference, the motor mount brackets on the Falcon were mounted in front of the lower control arm pivot, on the Mustangs it is the same piece swapped side for side so it sits behind the lower control arm pivot. On the Falcon I had almost no room between the factory flex fan and the radiator, on the Shelby, same radiator, 4" spacer between the 4 blade fan and water pump pulley.

Dave - I think the idea of checking the other hood out is a good one. A hood is not where you want waves as you'll be looking at them all the time you are driving.

Bill - The Falcons were very light in the rear. My best friend and I took one out for cruising one night and that 260 would light the tires easily. But I didn't know about the mounts being flipped in a 'Stang.

As for the rear diff, I like the way the Truetrac does its work in silence. And, save for the incident in the rain, it hasn't caused any tire squalls or even chirps. But it is pretty obvious that it locks up in the rain. Should work fine on the trail, but can be a handful on the street.

[grumpin]

Dave - I think the idea of checking the other hood out is a good one. A hood is not where you want waves as you'll be looking at them all the time you are driving.

Bill - The Falcons were very light in the rear. My best friend and I took one out for cruising one night and that 260 would light the tires easily. But I didn't know about the mounts being flipped in a 'Stang.

As for the rear diff, I like the way the Truetrac does its work in silence. And, save for the incident in the rain, it hasn't caused any tire squalls or even chirps. But it is pretty obvious that it locks up in the rain. Should work fine on the trail, but can be a handful on the street.

Installed the new NOS Battery Hold down and J Bolts!

Thanks 1986F150Six!

[Gary Lewis]

Installed the new NOS Battery Hold down and J Bolts!

Thanks 1986F150Six!

Looks good!

[Ford F834]

Looks good!

This will start out off-topic but it has a truck ending ha ha.

As some of you know I’m in the process of moving to a new place. It hasn’t been lived in for a while, and we discovered that the refrigerator didn’t work, and the kitchen stove was quite frankly not worth cleaning. In addition to human funk, the front door of the house had come open and pigeons had been hanging out inside. so we started looking for a used propane cook stove on the online yard sale groups and found one. Don’t laugh, it’s a 1926 Detroit Star... and yes we fully intend to use it for cooking. The only real flaw that I can see is that one of the cast iron (?) burner grates has a crack. Gary, if you happen to see Scott perhaps you could ask if he has any advice about getting this welded?

I know I am a biased antique lover, but man the design and craftsmanship that this has is completely lacking in its modern counterparts.

So we had the bad fridge and gross stove plus a set of six metal frame chairs piled outside as yard art. I decided to take them for recycle at the junkyard on one of my moving runs.... and while at the junkyard you wouldn’t begrudge me a quick trip inside right? I ended up leaving with a 460 ZF. It has been rebuilt at some point as evidenced by grey paint and crimp punches on the holes for the springs in the top cover.

Yes, I have the shift tower... but I had to remove it to get the transmission out. The rear seal had fallen out and will need replaced. The front input shaft does have a very tiny amount of play in it. I have been told that ANY amount of play indicates the need for a full rebuild, but I am starting to question that. It seems like any linkage between components like that need to be able to give at least a tiny amount. I don’t think you want a bunch of slop but I don’t know if a tiny bit is something to panic over. I’m guessing that most ZF’s in use would be that way if you removed it and checked it. Anyway, I need to clean it, pull the PTO covers and have a better look, but for now it goes straight into storage.

[1986F150Six]

This will start out off-topic but it has a truck ending ha ha.

As some of you know I’m in the process of moving to a new place. It hasn’t been lived in for a while, and we discovered that the refrigerator didn’t work, and the kitchen stove was quite frankly not worth cleaning. In addition to human funk, the front door of the house had come open and pigeons had been hanging out inside. so we started looking for a used propane cook stove on the online yard sale groups and found one. Don’t laugh, it’s a 1926 Detroit Star... and yes we fully intend to use it for cooking. The only real flaw that I can see is that one of the cast iron (?) burner grates has a crack. Gary, if you happen to see Scott perhaps you could ask if he has any advice about getting this welded?

I know I am a biased antique lover, but man the design and craftsmanship that this has is completely lacking in its modern counterparts.

So we had the bad fridge and gross stove plus a set of six metal frame chairs piled outside as yard art. I decided to take them for recycle at the junkyard on one of my moving runs.... and while at the junkyard you wouldn’t begrudge me a quick trip inside right? I ended up leaving with a 460 ZF. It has been rebuilt at some point as evidenced by grey paint and crimp punches on the holes for the springs in the top cover.

Yes, I have the shift tower... but I had to remove it to get the transmission out. The rear seal had fallen out and will need replaced. The front input shaft does have a very tiny amount of play in it. I have been told that ANY amount of play indicates the need for a full rebuild, but I am starting to question that. It seems like any linkage between components like that need to be able to give at least a tiny amount. I don’t think you want a bunch of slop but I don’t know if a tiny bit is something to panic over. I’m guessing that most ZF’s in use would be that way if you removed it and checked it. Anyway, I need to clean it, pull the PTO covers and have a better look, but for now it goes straight into storage.

Nice hearing from you, Jonathan! The kitchen stove is beautiful!

[Gary Lewis]

This will start out off-topic but it has a truck ending ha ha.

As some of you know I’m in the process of moving to a new place. It hasn’t been lived in for a while, and we discovered that the refrigerator didn’t work, and the kitchen stove was quite frankly not worth cleaning. In addition to human funk, the front door of the house had come open and pigeons had been hanging out inside. so we started looking for a used propane cook stove on the online yard sale groups and found one. Don’t laugh, it’s a 1926 Detroit Star... and yes we fully intend to use it for cooking. The only real flaw that I can see is that one of the cast iron (?) burner grates has a crack. Gary, if you happen to see Scott perhaps you could ask if he has any advice about getting this welded?

I know I am a biased antique lover, but man the design and craftsmanship that this has is completely lacking in its modern counterparts.

So we had the bad fridge and gross stove plus a set of six metal frame chairs piled outside as yard art. I decided to take them for recycle at the junkyard on one of my moving runs.... and while at the junkyard you wouldn’t begrudge me a quick trip inside right? I ended up leaving with a 460 ZF. It has been rebuilt at some point as evidenced by grey paint and crimp punches on the holes for the springs in the top cover.

Yes, I have the shift tower... but I had to remove it to get the transmission out. The rear seal had fallen out and will need replaced. The front input shaft does have a very tiny amount of play in it. I have been told that ANY amount of play indicates the need for a full rebuild, but I am starting to question that. It seems like any linkage between components like that need to be able to give at least a tiny amount. I don’t think you want a bunch of slop but I don’t know if a tiny bit is something to panic over. I’m guessing that most ZF’s in use would be that way if you removed it and checked it. Anyway, I need to clean it, pull the PTO covers and have a better look, but for now it goes straight into storage.

Yes, that kitchen stove certainly is beautiful. Man, they put flair into things back then. Might that be art deco?

And, I'll ask Scott about the burner grate, but he may suggest you bring it.

Also, that's a good find on the ZF. Is it a 42 or 47? And, it is the 4wd version I see.

[Ford F834]

Yes, that kitchen stove certainly is beautiful. Man, they put flair into things back then. Might that be art deco?

And, I'll ask Scott about the burner grate, but he may suggest you bring it.

Also, that's a good find on the ZF. Is it a 42 or 47? And, it is the 4wd version I see.

Thanks Gary... I may just hold out and bring the stove piece. Someone already welded it together about an inch away. That weld held but it broke in a new spot. I really want this done right since it isn’t just decoration for us 🙂

The ZF is a 42, wide ratio 460 Bell. I’m probably just going to clean and re-seal it, drill the bell for the IDI and put it in. The ratios will work well if I use the GVOD.