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WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?


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Why cant Ford make this simple. I am now going on day 3 I think it is now trying to figure out if there is a difference in C6 transmissions as far as starter location goes.

I thought all C6 transmissions came with a 164 tooth flex plate which is 14.25" diameter but when looking at flexplates as I want to buy a new aftermarket flexplate in 50oz imbalance for my engine build I keep seeing 157 tooth flex plates for the C6 which is a 13.25" diameter. That 1" decrease in diameter means the flexplate on the starter side will be 1/4" smaller which would in my opinion mean with a 164 tooth bellhousing and block plate would never engage the teeth on a 157 tooth flexplate. The problem I might have is I am wanting to have broader performance build me a 750hp C6 wide ratio transmission with a 8tooth speedometer gear output shaft with a valve body tow shift kit, big block servo piston and black stripe vacuum modulator which from all the reading Ive done has a wider adjustability for fine tuning part throttle shift points. If I do this and there is a difference I very well may end up with a C6 for a 157 tooth flex plate and if I retain the correct truck size 164 tooth flex plate and block plate then when I go to put the transmission in it wont fit as the bell housing from what I saw some state will have a ID just big enough for the correct flexplate and a 164 tooth flexplate will not fit in a 157tooth bellhousing but I cant get verification on this cause everything I am reading flips back and forth between C4 and C6.

I could just pull my transmission and ship it to Broader Performance and have him build it for me but he stresses he takes his time to make sure its right and could be a 6 month turn around but that was pre virus. I cant let my truck sit after putting a new engine and fuel injection in it for months, my plan was to drive the truck around till the new transmission comes in then do a quick swap around and be done.

Apparently all small block C6`s use a 164 tooth flexplate and the starter mounting location on the C6 didnt change so I should be fine to just buy any C6 from Broader Performance when I get to that stage and not have to worry about getting something that wont fit my OE block plate and the 164 tooth flex plate which I still need to figure out which brand to get. Im leaning towards the HD Pioneer brand on rock auto cause the ATI I was looking at has bad reviews

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Front main seal on the 302 in Elain:

Screenshot_20210410-131853_Gallery.jpg.e5eb084c0c4b24bed389501063a48175.jpg Screenshot_20210417-200017_Messages.jpg.9e1ad007858300e827f79235b39e67f9.jpg

Took the opportunity to swap a new water pump in it, and also paint some of the brackets. Forgot an after photo... but... it's not leaking anymore :nabble_smiley_happy: as you can probably surmise from the pictures, the leak generated from a seal that far gone is rather significant.

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Front main seal on the 302 in Elain:

Took the opportunity to swap a new water pump in it, and also paint some of the brackets. Forgot an after photo... but... it's not leaking anymore :nabble_smiley_happy: as you can probably surmise from the pictures, the leak generated from a seal that far gone is rather significant.

Congrats! Bet that feels great to have taken care of.

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Congrats! Bet that feels great to have taken care of.

Oh yeah, I need to use the truck, it's spring! That seal was obviously on the edge of catastrophic failure, then I used it on some extremely cold days and it probably was slightly more brittle and let go. I haven't really been able to drive the truck for a couple months as a consequence.

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Oh yeah, I need to use the truck, it's spring! That seal was obviously on the edge of catastrophic failure, then I used it on some extremely cold days and it probably was slightly more brittle and let go. I haven't really been able to drive the truck for a couple months as a consequence.

Wow, that was surely LEAKING! Glad you got it replaced before things got out of hand. :nabble_smiley_good:

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Front main seal on the 302 in Elain:

Took the opportunity to swap a new water pump in it, and also paint some of the brackets. Forgot an after photo... but... it's not leaking anymore :nabble_smiley_happy: as you can probably surmise from the pictures, the leak generated from a seal that far gone is rather significant.

How did the damper/spacer look?

Was the timing chain tight?

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Apparently all small block C6`s use a 164 tooth flexplate and the starter mounting location on the C6 didnt change so I should be fine to just buy any C6 from Broader Performance when I get to that stage and not have to worry about getting something that wont fit my OE block plate and the 164 tooth flex plate which I still need to figure out which brand to get. Im leaning towards the HD Pioneer brand on rock auto cause the ATI I was looking at has bad reviews

Got my new Jegs engine stand assembled yesterday, just have to re organize my garage so I have some room to put the engine stand in and close the door. Currently I have it folded up till I have time to do that. I also have to get new grease fittings for the gear and pull the worm gear cover off and hammer it flat as this box was tossed around my fedex so bad it damaged the stand quite a bit but it functions. Only thing I am not happy with is the brace is welded incorrectly so you cant just simply fold it and unfold it you have to loosen everything up to get the pin to line up on both sides but its not a big deal, this is just a back up stand so I dont have to dig my other engine stand out and figure out where to put the engine that is still on that stand.

I also checked my NOS oil pan, there are some changes made hence the revised number in the parts and illustration guide. Im wondering still why ford revised the oil pan it looks like the only change made from mine is the addition of a indentation on the driverside of the oil pan which my OE pan does not have. I also will have to strip the pain off it on the inside of the pan, it looks like how ford hung the pan for painting resulted in two spots where there is no paint but bare metal and there is a little rust there. I also dont like how there is a paint edge which will help promote paint chipping and peeling especially if the bare metal next to it starts to rust again. I also have to decide what to do with the drain plug, its bare steel and it has a little rust on it as well. Not sure if I want to try zinc plating the bolt or masking the bolt off and painting it with eastwoods 2K primer and engine paint. I wont be painting the pan with the bolt in, Ive done that before and found out the bare metal behind the gasket helps promote chipping of the paint over time so the bolt will have to be coated one way or another separate. I am leaning towards the zinc plating as it wont chip off when you put a wrench on it like paint could.

Still waiting on word of my short block, today is 30 days since my order placed and nothing but ebay still cites May 14th as the latest for the delivery date. Im going to give him a few more days before I contact him to find out whats going on. I work in a shop so I know how annoying it is to be bugged by the customer and I know that automotive parts are a little scarce right now especially engine parts so I feel obligated to give him some time past the stated goal of shipping in 20 to 30 days.

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Got my new Jegs engine stand assembled yesterday, just have to re organize my garage so I have some room to put the engine stand in and close the door. Currently I have it folded up till I have time to do that. I also have to get new grease fittings for the gear and pull the worm gear cover off and hammer it flat as this box was tossed around my fedex so bad it damaged the stand quite a bit but it functions. Only thing I am not happy with is the brace is welded incorrectly so you cant just simply fold it and unfold it you have to loosen everything up to get the pin to line up on both sides but its not a big deal, this is just a back up stand so I dont have to dig my other engine stand out and figure out where to put the engine that is still on that stand.

I also checked my NOS oil pan, there are some changes made hence the revised number in the parts and illustration guide. Im wondering still why ford revised the oil pan it looks like the only change made from mine is the addition of a indentation on the driverside of the oil pan which my OE pan does not have. I also will have to strip the pain off it on the inside of the pan, it looks like how ford hung the pan for painting resulted in two spots where there is no paint but bare metal and there is a little rust there. I also dont like how there is a paint edge which will help promote paint chipping and peeling especially if the bare metal next to it starts to rust again. I also have to decide what to do with the drain plug, its bare steel and it has a little rust on it as well. Not sure if I want to try zinc plating the bolt or masking the bolt off and painting it with eastwoods 2K primer and engine paint. I wont be painting the pan with the bolt in, Ive done that before and found out the bare metal behind the gasket helps promote chipping of the paint over time so the bolt will have to be coated one way or another separate. I am leaning towards the zinc plating as it wont chip off when you put a wrench on it like paint could.

Still waiting on word of my short block, today is 30 days since my order placed and nothing but ebay still cites May 14th as the latest for the delivery date. Im going to give him a few more days before I contact him to find out whats going on. I work in a shop so I know how annoying it is to be bugged by the customer and I know that automotive parts are a little scarce right now especially engine parts so I feel obligated to give him some time past the stated goal of shipping in 20 to 30 days.

Took my truck on a 800 mile trip. Hauled some things back. Not heavy, but a load.

Observations, empty, me and my belongings in the truck. Running 65 MPH mostly, with some pretty good climbs in the mountains, 10.9 MPG.

Returning with load (empty part of this portion) mostly flat, a few small climbs, 11.3 MPG.

Sadly I was excited about these numbers as I expected worse.

I want to do a little tweaking with the timing and maybe go back to the original jets. I think it’s a little lean, may be time to invest in an AFR meter.

Edit: a little research and I see an AFR needs an O2 sensor hook up. And a pretty good chunk of change! :nabble_money-flying-23_orig:

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Took my truck on a 800 mile trip. Hauled some things back. Not heavy, but a load.

Observations, empty, me and my belongings in the truck. Running 65 MPH mostly, with some pretty good climbs in the mountains, 10.9 MPG.

Returning with load (empty part of this portion) mostly flat, a few small climbs, 11.3 MPG.

Sadly I was excited about these numbers as I expected worse.

I want to do a little tweaking with the timing and maybe go back to the original jets. I think it’s a little lean, may be time to invest in an AFR meter.

Edit: a little research and I see an AFR needs an O2 sensor hook up. And a pretty good chunk of change! :nabble_money-flying-23_orig:

Dane - Those are pretty decent numbers with a C6! I can crowd 12 with Big Blue and the ZF5, so for you to get 11.3 is pretty good. :nabble_anim_claps:

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