WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?

[Rusty_S85]

I've got a bit of zinc fume fever this morning, but I'm back at welding in the floor an rocker in my cab.

Got set back by rain and ferocious winds.

MIG just doesn't work too well outside, and the flux core machine wants to burn through butt joints. (plus, it's dirty)

I'll have to hold off flap disc leveling on Easter morning.

That has me bouncing around, until I can grind those seams and add more pieces

But welds? Is this a show truck where you should not see the weld seams?

I cheated and over lipped by about an inch.

I punched holes around the edges and spot welded it.

Seam seal top & bottom and coat with bed liner.

Once covered with a rubber mat or carpet who will see it?

Dave ----

I think butt welding is the standard. Even the body shop that did the floor pans on the '82 F150 we put the 5.0 coyote in at work the floor pan pieces were butt welded in place.

The ghetto shop that did the floor pans in the 66 impala I rewired that was some funny stuff, they didn't even cut the floor out just laid the whole floorpans atop the old and welded it in place lol. The paint was also funny as well with trash in it, orange peel like crazy and many areas the paint bubbled up from the bare metal.

On a side note, not a whole lot of options out there for AMG fuse holders. I found quite a few but they either had the bolt for the fuse exposed on the bottom which I didn't like, or they had the sides all open which made it very easy for battery hot to be hit easily.

I did find one the HMG211 busman box that is more enclosed and its cheaper than the previous encolosed one I found that was pushing nearly $25.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I've got a bit of zinc fume fever this morning, but I'm back at welding in the floor an rocker in my cab.

Got set back by rain and ferocious winds.

MIG just doesn't work too well outside, and the flux core machine wants to burn through butt joints. (plus, it's dirty)

I'll have to hold off flap disc leveling on Easter morning.

That has me bouncing around, until I can grind those seams and add more pieces

But welds? Is this a show truck where you should not see the weld seams?

I cheated and over lipped by about an inch.

I punched holes around the edges and spot welded it.

Seam seal top & bottom and coat with bed liner.

Once covered with a rubber mat or carpet who will see it?

Dave ----

Butt welds where it's exposed and in the gasket flange Dave.

I have a punch & flange tool and use it to good effect.

Run some selftappers into every third hole to hold it tight and plug weld.

Tap the edges tight as you do each hole.

Gary,

The weld through primer leaves the same sulphur yellow mold and white fumes as welding galvanized.

When i have my head up in the footwell, to weld the floor from cab brace to firewall there's not much I can do.

I don't have a forced air respirator.

Dave, I'm going to have to do like you, getting that rear of cab crossbrace pieced in on the end.

[Gary Lewis]

Butt welds where it's exposed and in the gasket flange Dave.

I have a punch & flange tool and use it to good effect.

Run some selftappers into every third hole to hold it tight and plug weld.

Tap the edges tight as you do each hole.

Gary,

The weld through primer leaves the same sulphur yellow mold and white fumes as welding galvanized.

When i have my head up in the footwell, to weld the floor from cab brace to firewall there's not much I can do.

I don't have a forced air respirator.

Dave, I'm going to have to do like you, getting that rear of cab crossbrace pieced in on the end.

Ahhh! Now I understand. I have weld-through primer, but haven't used much of it.

As said, please be careful!

[FuzzFace2]

Butt welds where it's exposed and in the gasket flange Dave.

I have a punch & flange tool and use it to good effect.

Run some selftappers into every third hole to hold it tight and plug weld.

Tap the edges tight as you do each hole.

Gary,

The weld through primer leaves the same sulphur yellow mold and white fumes as welding galvanized.

When i have my head up in the footwell, to weld the floor from cab brace to firewall there's not much I can do.

I don't have a forced air respirator.

Dave, I'm going to have to do like you, getting that rear of cab crossbrace pieced in on the end.

Ok on the butt welds.

I used some heavy items on the floor pans to hold them down and used something to push the pan to the floor and plug weld and hammer where needed and working inch by inch till welded in place.

I also used weld thru primer, the white spray paint looking stuff around the edges.

Yea there are some places you just cant get out of the way of the smoke so you try and hold your breath.

On the rear cab cross brace I made it from metal I have on hand. Do they make that part? If so I did not know or even look for it. I just knew I needed to tie the brace into the rocker / cab corner for it to be some what strong.

As you could tell I did not try to get it to look factory as who is going to see it and it worked like the factory wanted it to. I did weld a bracket inside & outside to tie into the rocker.

Dave ----

[Rusty_S85]

Im looking at getting this gold colored "Built not bought" decal for my back window when I finish my '82.

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n56360/Built_not_Bought.jpg

Im also looking at maybe doing one of the following decals.

I really am thinking "Slow Poke Rodriguez" would be quite fitting for the "stock" theme I am going for my '82 even though she will be far from stock.

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n56360/s-l500.jpg

Speedy Gonzales was another option but I am not too sure.

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n56360/s-l1600.png

Its just like I would love to get the Ford Racing badge but it wouldn't fit perfectly below the 150 in my F150 emblems and I think it would look out of place.http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n56360/M-16098-PBFP.jpg

Aside from all that, I got my wire in today with the mail. It is some high quality stuff cant believe how cheap it was for how much I got. Goes to show you, bulk buying is better than picking up from your local auto part stores.

I do like that wrench sticker. may looing into something for the rear window also.

As for the "Slow Poke Rodriguez" that would fit my truck to a "T".

300 six and a T18 / NP435 you cant shift fast it is slow

Dave ----

lol I like it cause it kind of lies about my truck is slow. I don't think a 306 that should make around 390hp would be slow with a C6 that will be rebuilt with a E4OD planetary gear set and a axle ratio swap from 2.75:1 to 3.25:1 if everything goes to plan.

Its why I decided to run OE spec exhaust which if 2 1/2" reduced to 2 1/4" at the tailpipe was large enough for a 351W then it should be ideal for a 306. I just hope my OE sized Magnaflow XL 3 Chamber 6" round muffler will not be loud. I want the truck to sound like a modern stock truck where it has a good sound but its not loud till you floor it.

Muffler I got is the part # 13645 with the following dimensions

Inlet : 2 1/4"

Outlet : 2 1/4"

Inlet/Outlet : Offset

Case Exterior Length : 27"

Case Outside Diameter : 6"

Overall Length : 33"

The stock replacement muffler from walker for my truck is as follows

Inlet : 2 1/4"

Outlet : 2"

Inlet/Outlet : Offset

Case Exterior Length : 25"

Case Exterior Diameter : 6"

Overall Length : 31"

I figured the muffler is a little longer which should help quiet the exhaust down some but it is close enough that it will fit properly to my OE replacement tail pipe and then the straight pipe in 2 1/2" from the Y pipe back will just be slightly shorter. its sad that the OE replacement mufflers have the right mounts to fit the OE hanger but they don't have the correct 2 1/2" inlet and 2 1/4" outlet like OE mufflers.

I do plan on buying one of the cheapie ones with the OE hanger to cut it off the muffler then once I get mine mocked up I will find someone local that can weld the steel hanger onto my stainless steel muffler.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Butt welds where it's exposed and in the gasket flange Dave.

I have a punch & flange tool and use it to good effect.

Run some selftappers into every third hole to hold it tight and plug weld.

Tap the edges tight as you do each hole.

Gary,

The weld through primer leaves the same sulphur yellow mold and white fumes as welding galvanized.

When i have my head up in the footwell, to weld the floor from cab brace to firewall there's not much I can do.

I don't have a forced air respirator.

Dave, I'm going to have to do like you, getting that rear of cab crossbrace pieced in on the end.

Ok on the butt welds.

I used some heavy items on the floor pans to hold them down and used something to push the pan to the floor and plug weld and hammer where needed and working inch by inch till welded in place.

I also used weld thru primer, the white spray paint looking stuff around the edges.

Yea there are some places you just cant get out of the way of the smoke so you try and hold your breath.

On the rear cab cross brace I made it from metal I have on hand. Do they make that part? If so I did not know or even look for it. I just knew I needed to tie the brace into the rocker / cab corner for it to be some what strong.

As you could tell I did not try to get it to look factory as who is going to see it and it worked like the factory wanted it to. I did weld a bracket inside & outside to tie into the rocker.

Dave ----

Ahhh, it would be a lot easier if the bed was off, and I could cut the cab corner out.

As is ill have to cobble something up out of patch trimmings.

I REALLY like that the TABCO panels are dead soft and thicker than any others I've seen.

I'll probably end up cutting it higher just so I can get at it.

Somehow, I try to do minimally invasive surgery and always end up causing myself headaches.

I should know better by now.

I was getting a bit too much of that metallic taste this afternoon so I took a break and worked on some doors and cubbies for a basement I have to finish.

[Rusty_S85]

Ahhh, it would be a lot easier if the bed was off, and I could cut the cab corner out.

As is ill have to cobble something up out of patch trimmings.

I REALLY like that the TABCO panels are dead soft and thicker than any others I've seen.

I'll probably end up cutting it higher just so I can get at it.

Somehow, I try to do minimally invasive surgery and always end up causing myself headaches.

I should know better by now.

I was getting a bit too much of that metallic taste this afternoon so I took a break and worked on some doors and cubbies for a basement I have to finish.

I need to do the passenger cab corner on mine, my dealer AC likes to drip water inside from time to time for some reason, both drains fully open. What im going to do is once the truck is finished exterior wise I am going to pull the seat and rubber mat out fix any floor pan rust I know there is a small one that was tinned over with a small plate of aluminum. Ill fix it the right way then I am looking at using some of that spray on insulator/sound barrier. I found the original company that lizard skin copied and theirs is cheaper. Its also can be used as a bed liner. I figure that would keep the water from attacking the metal again. It would also allow me to wash my interior out with the hose since I have a rubber mat. Just pull the cab corner plugs out and let the water drain out.

I also have a rot out in the cab roof partially in the door opening under the drip rail on the driver side. If I could spray some of that sound barrier/heat barrier in and get a even coating I would use that hole to do this before patching it. But I don't think it would be possible.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I need to do the passenger cab corner on mine, my dealer AC likes to drip water inside from time to time for some reason, both drains fully open. What im going to do is once the truck is finished exterior wise I am going to pull the seat and rubber mat out fix any floor pan rust I know there is a small one that was tinned over with a small plate of aluminum. Ill fix it the right way then I am looking at using some of that spray on insulator/sound barrier. I found the original company that lizard skin copied and theirs is cheaper. Its also can be used as a bed liner. I figure that would keep the water from attacking the metal again. It would also allow me to wash my interior out with the hose since I have a rubber mat. Just pull the cab corner plugs out and let the water drain out.

I also have a rot out in the cab roof partially in the door opening under the drip rail on the driver side. If I could spray some of that sound barrier/heat barrier in and get a even coating I would use that hole to do this before patching it. But I don't think it would be possible.

And... I'm out of gas. 😖

It's always something, right?

I turned it up because of the breeze and went through a 60 in what was ~2days. SMH...

Maybe I have a small leak?

I know I could use a new liner.... maybe a whole new whip.

[Gary Lewis]

And... I'm out of gas. 😖

It's always something, right?

I turned it up because of the breeze and went through a 60 in what was ~2days. SMH...

Maybe I have a small leak?

I know I could use a new liner.... maybe a whole new whip.

Youse guys keep talking about all of this work, but where are the pics? I want to enjoy the work vicariously - meaning without working on my part.

I share plenty. Your turn!

[ArdWrknTrk]

Youse guys keep talking about all of this work, but where are the pics? I want to enjoy the work vicariously - meaning without working on my part.

I share plenty. Your turn!

My phone croaked on Thursday morning.

It is raining sideways, in sheets right now.

When I have my hood down, or a grinder in hand, I'm not really thinking of sharing with the world.

But the tablet is hard to see in the sun. Its camera is crap. It is awkward to fit under the dash, into corners and under the truck (with me beneath it)

I'm doing all this on stone dust, out in the open.

Maybe I can order a new phone from my tablet?

Because all the phone stores around here are ordered shuttered-and I couldn't drive there if I wanted to.