WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?

[FuzzFace2]

If the stud spins and the ammeter is dead the truck will still charge. There is only a very, VERY small amount of current going through the gauge, with the rest going through the shunt - a physically large but low-impedance resistor wire. And when you go 3G the shunt has to come out of the system as it can't handle the current the 3G will throw.

Converting the ammeter to voltmeter is done in three steps. First, send a working ammeter to Rocketman, who does the conversions. Second, take the downstream lead that comes from the shunt and connect it to ground. Third, take the upstream lead that comes from the shunt to a source of switched power.

But, realize that most sources of switched power have enough load on them and are after lots of original scrawny wire that the voltage there is not what the battery is seeing, so your reading won't be correct and it will change with the load. I plan to put a dedicated relay in to provided switched power to the voltmeter.

So it is busted and I cant even send it to Rocketman because it is broken

Well at least it will still charge

So this shunt thing looks best to mess with when the 3G is installed and go with a Rocketman meter at the same time.

Something else to be added to the 3G swap I guess

Dave ----

[Gary Lewis]

If the stud spins and the ammeter is dead the truck will still charge. There is only a very, VERY small amount of current going through the gauge, with the rest going through the shunt - a physically large but low-impedance resistor wire. And when you go 3G the shunt has to come out of the system as it can't handle the current the 3G will throw.

Converting the ammeter to voltmeter is done in three steps. First, send a working ammeter to Rocketman, who does the conversions. Second, take the downstream lead that comes from the shunt and connect it to ground. Third, take the upstream lead that comes from the shunt to a source of switched power.

But, realize that most sources of switched power have enough load on them and are after lots of original scrawny wire that the voltage there is not what the battery is seeing, so your reading won't be correct and it will change with the load. I plan to put a dedicated relay in to provided switched power to the voltmeter.

So it is busted and I cant even send it to Rocketman because it is broken

Well at least it will still charge

So this shunt thing looks best to mess with when the 3G is installed and go with a Rocketman meter at the same time.

Something else to be added to the 3G swap I guess

Dave ----

You may be able to pull the ammeter out of the case by removing the nut from the other stud and then pushing the studs through the case. Then reconnect to the broken wire and put it back.

And yes, it is best to work on the shunt when you install the 3G. There's really no reason to do anything at all with it until you add the bigger alternator as it'll work just fine with or without the ammeter.

[FuzzFace2]

You may be able to pull the ammeter out of the case by removing the nut from the other stud and then pushing the studs through the case. Then reconnect to the broken wire and put it back.

And yes, it is best to work on the shunt when you install the 3G. There's really no reason to do anything at all with it until you add the bigger alternator as it'll work just fine with or without the ammeter.

You can get a lot done when you cant sleep and hit the garage at 2am!

Yesterday I picked up vacuum hose and fittings so today I got the vacuum lines run. I need to swap 2 lines for the air filter snorkel and will do that when I pull it to take it to the parts store to show them the breather they sold me there is no way the clip fits to hold it in place. I also need to pickup the little 90* fitting that fits on the breather the hose goes on and a grommet and fitting for the valve cover.

Then on to the bed rear panel & floor. Welded them and ground down the welds.

It is done so if I want to install the stock tail gate I can with out needing to redo the area if I left the floor over hang like I was thinking of doing.

Then moved on to the front panel. The bottom was rusted away and because I am using the style side floor I sits higher so it had to be trimmed shorter anyway.

I had to trim off a little more to get all the bad part gone but it worked out good for the part I was going to use to add the bottom lip back.

You ask what am I going to use for the bottom lip? One of the style side floor cross beams I had to remove when I shorten the bed floor.

It is heavy gauge like the front panel so welding it should not be bad.

The holes in the lip to the floor will be welded up and new holes drilled as they do not line up to the ribs on the floor as you will see in the last picture.

The front panel is bolted to the sides. The light color between the ribbed floor & dark front panel is the lip I made from the cross beam. I is just sitting there as it needs a little more fine tuning.

Quitting time was 3pm made for a long day.

Dave ----

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

You can get a lot done when you cant sleep and hit the garage at 2am!

Yesterday I picked up vacuum hose and fittings so today I got the vacuum lines run. I need to swap 2 lines for the air filter snorkel and will do that when I pull it to take it to the parts store to show them the breather they sold me there is no way the clip fits to hold it in place. I also need to pickup the little 90* fitting that fits on the breather the hose goes on and a grommet and fitting for the valve cover.

Then on to the bed rear panel & floor. Welded them and ground down the welds.

It is done so if I want to install the stock tail gate I can with out needing to redo the area if I left the floor over hang like I was thinking of doing.

Then moved on to the front panel. The bottom was rusted away and because I am using the style side floor I sits higher so it had to be trimmed shorter anyway.

I had to trim off a little more to get all the bad part gone but it worked out good for the part I was going to use to add the bottom lip back.

You ask what am I going to use for the bottom lip? One of the style side floor cross beams I had to remove when I shorten the bed floor.

It is heavy gauge like the front panel so welding it should not be bad.

The holes in the lip to the floor will be welded up and new holes drilled as they do not line up to the ribs on the floor as you will see in the last picture.

The front panel is bolted to the sides. The light color between the ribbed floor & dark front panel is the lip I made from the cross beam. I is just sitting there as it needs a little more fine tuning.

Quitting time was 3pm made for a long day.

Dave ----

Great work Dave!

It's amazing how you fit pieces in (like your firewall)

You are an inspiration.

When you weld up the holes do you braze them. Just pulse quick with a MIG?

I have a bunch of chunks of copper (plate, rods, 'spoons') that I use for that kind of stuff if I can get at the back.

Basically like a dolly, but for welding.

I'm wondering what others do in this sort of situation.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Great work Dave!

It's amazing how you fit pieces in (like your firewall)

You are an inspiration.

When you weld up the holes do you braze them. Just pulse quick with a MIG?

I have a bunch of chunks of copper (plate, rods, 'spoons') that I use for that kind of stuff if I can get at the back.

Basically like a dolly, but for welding.

I'm wondering what others do in this sort of situation.

Yes, Dave, you are an inspiration. I am amazed at both how much you get done and how well it turns out.

Jim - I don't have any spoons or copper plates, so I just weld them up and grind both sides with a right-angle grinder using a flap wheel.

[1986F150Six]

I lost a hubcap today.

(David, if you have a line on a 4x4 front -type 3- for 16" wheel with D44 size lockout...)

Sorry, Jim, I do not. If you remember [years ago], the one I found for you [rear] was at a shop and was being used to store lug nuts!

This one is pretty, but pricy!! https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-78-94-Ford-Truck-4x4-Dog-Dish-Hubcap-Pickup-Four-Wheel-3-4-1-Ton-F250-F350/302537008954?hash=item46709c673a:g:t-oAAOSwpDdVB1iG&vxp=mtr

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/t-oAAOSwpDdVB1iG/s-l1600.jpg

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

I lost a hubcap today.

(David, if you have a line on a 4x4 front -type 3- for 16" wheel with D44 size lockout...)

Sorry, Jim, I do not. If you remember [years ago], the one I found for you [rear] was at a shop and was being used to store lug nuts!

This one is pretty, but pricy!! https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-78-94-Ford-Truck-4x4-Dog-Dish-Hubcap-Pickup-Four-Wheel-3-4-1-Ton-F250-F350/302537008954?hash=item46709c673a:g:t-oAAOSwpDdVB1iG&vxp=mtr

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/t-oAAOSwpDdVB1iG/s-l1600.jpg

That one actually has the D50-D60 size hole.

I bought a E5TZ 1130-D for $55 delivered this morning.

But I thank you for looking for me! :)

[Gary Lewis]

That one actually has the D50-D60 size hole.

I bought a E5TZ 1130-D for $55 delivered this morning.

But I thank you for looking for me! :)

After doing a bit of machine work this morning I set a goal of getting the cab off The Huck. Score!

Makes access to the engine and tranny a bit easier:

Maybe tomorrow I can get the tranny out. Shouldn't be too hard - one of the bolts is already backed out 1/2".

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

After doing a bit of machine work this morning I set a goal of getting the cab off The Huck. Score!

Makes access to the engine and tranny a bit easier:

Maybe tomorrow I can get the tranny out. Shouldn't be too hard - one of the bolts is already backed out 1/2".

Progress is good, Gary!

 

[Gary Lewis]

Progress is good, Gary!

That's what I hear, Jim.