WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, it is a lot of work. But, being done in a controlled and thoughtful fashion. I'm impressed.

Unlike my slash & burn techniques.

Yesterday I spent a few hours sorting, cleaning and wrapping parts.

I did *no* cleaning of harnesses....

Got the pump pulley off so I could remove it from the bracket. (Gary, do you want the tensioner assy? )

Bought a full set of garter clip removal tools and now have Bill's fuel lines off the rails and cleaned up.

Reassembled my engine stand.

Hopefully today is the day to pull the engine, gearbox and Gary's crossmember.

I also have to sort out the trim pump solenoids on the boat.

(this is related because the truck is used to launch it)

Need to go up to the airport with a drum and pick up 50 gallons of 101 'blue' at the prop hanger on the back side of the field.

Having a pilot friend works out sometimes.

Jim - I was in no way referencing your process. You are getting things done, extremely rapidly. Just wait until you see how slow I am.

As for the tensioner, with it would I have a full set of serpentine components? If so, I’d better have it unless someone else needs it.

Trim pump solenoids? Man, those were a bear on my OMC. Looked like Ford starter solenoids, but were supposedly sealed. Used to drill the rivets, clean the contacts, and put the cover back with machine screws. Glad this Mercury doesn’t have the same arrangement.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Jim - I was in no way referencing your process. You are getting things done, extremely rapidly. Just wait until you see how slow I am.

As for the tensioner, with it would I have a full set of serpentine components? If so, I’d better have it unless someone else needs it.

Trim pump solenoids? Man, those were a bear on my OMC. Looked like Ford starter solenoids, but were supposedly sealed. Used to drill the rivets, clean the contacts, and put the cover back with machine screws. Glad this Mercury doesn’t have the same arrangement.

No, no.

I was trying to say that I am not being as methodical as I would like, but sometimes the cutoff disc wins out.

I'm here sorting Bills stuff from yours and trying to bundle like with like, so it makes some sense.

I had rewired the pump from the new battery box all the way to the NOS Mercury Quicksilver trim switch in the shifter.

Everything was good, but now it only wants to go up (in either position)

Tested the handle. Proved the switch and the front half of my wiring.

Now I guess I have to lay on my back and trouble shoot the solenoid pack on the pump.

[Gary Lewis]

No, no.

I was trying to say that I am not being as methodical as I would like, but sometimes the cutoff disc wins out.

I'm here sorting Bills stuff from yours and trying to bundle like with like, so it makes some sense.

I had rewired the pump from the new battery box all the way to the NOS Mercury Quicksilver trim switch in the shifter.

Everything was good, but now it only wants to go up (in either position)

Tested the handle. Proved the switch and the front half of my wiring.

Now I guess I have to lay on my back and trouble shoot the solenoid pack on the pump.

When I go winterize the boat tomorrow I’ll reach over and pat the pump and solenoids. 😈 They are where I pulled the batteries from, and are easily accessible with the engine cover raised. In fact, with the exception of the trim tab pump, everything is handy, and the trim tab pump isn’t too bad if you raise the engine past where the electric lift can take it. But that cover is heavy, and it is a chore to raise it with one arm and put the prop I fashioned in with the other. Once that’s done access to the transom and the trim tab pump is easy.

[FuzzFace2]

When I go winterize the boat tomorrow I’ll reach over and pat the pump and solenoids. 😈 They are where I pulled the batteries from, and are easily accessible with the engine cover raised. In fact, with the exception of the trim tab pump, everything is handy, and the trim tab pump isn’t too bad if you raise the engine past where the electric lift can take it. But that cover is heavy, and it is a chore to raise it with one arm and put the prop I fashioned in with the other. Once that’s done access to the transom and the trim tab pump is easy.

The Gremlin is a 75 factory V8/auto car. I have had it about 20+ years. The motor always ran hot, think mud in the cooling passages that flushing will not get out.

The front pump seal leaks or converter ears are cracked, known cause, to leak like seal so trany would also need to be pulled.

Small body so not a lot of room or fun to pull motor or trany.

Then add rust mites, inner & outer rockers, floors 1 fender that I know of and a door. I have a fender (don't know if right side or not) & door. No one makes floors and if you can get rockers it is for a Javelin and trim to fit.

If I come across a better small car body I will swap all the V8 parts over to it.

Before I do anything with the Gremlin I have two 70 Javelins, 1 is my a street car I have been restoring and moding for years now. AMC 360 v8, pulled the T10 4sp and installed a WC T5, custom gauges to look stock, silver carbon fiber dash over lay also made to look stock. Front & doors body work is done. In the middle of flush mounting the front & rear glass then finish the rest of the body work & paint.

The other is my 1/4mile drag car I built from the ground up, not raced it in 10 years. I would have to go thru it all before hitting the track again.

The AMC stuff was put on hold because of the 81 F100 flare side project truck.

Dave ----

ps that gremlin has 2.89 rear gear so a dog off the line drag racing it (before drag car was done) but would go thru the lights at 90 mph 2nd or 3rd gear at about 16 sec. all stock amc 304 motor.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

The Gremlin is a 75 factory V8/auto car. I have had it about 20+ years. The motor always ran hot, think mud in the cooling passages that flushing will not get out.

The front pump seal leaks or converter ears are cracked, known cause, to leak like seal so trany would also need to be pulled.

Small body so not a lot of room or fun to pull motor or trany.

Then add rust mites, inner & outer rockers, floors 1 fender that I know of and a door. I have a fender (don't know if right side or not) & door. No one makes floors and if you can get rockers it is for a Javelin and trim to fit.

If I come across a better small car body I will swap all the V8 parts over to it.

Before I do anything with the Gremlin I have two 70 Javelins, 1 is my a street car I have been restoring and moding for years now. AMC 360 v8, pulled the T10 4sp and installed a WC T5, custom gauges to look stock, silver carbon fiber dash over lay also made to look stock. Front & doors body work is done. In the middle of flush mounting the front & rear glass then finish the rest of the body work & paint.

The other is my 1/4mile drag car I built from the ground up, not raced it in 10 years. I would have to go thru it all before hitting the track again.

The AMC stuff was put on hold because of the 81 F100 flare side project truck.

Dave ----

ps that gremlin has 2.89 rear gear so a dog off the line drag racing it (before drag car was done) but would go thru the lights at 90 mph 2nd or 3rd gear at about 16 sec. all stock amc 304 motor.

You better get to work Dave....

Project 11 second Gremlin awaits!

As for what I did.

My weather strip came in. (It's made. In Taiwan)

I figured out the ground problem with the boat

I cleaned, sorted and wrapped more parts.

Bills pile grows.

[Gary Lewis]

You better get to work Dave....

Project 11 second Gremlin awaits!

As for what I did.

My weather strip came in. (It's made. In Taiwan)

I figured out the ground problem with the boat

I cleaned, sorted and wrapped more parts.

Bills pile grows.

Jim - You ran another screw into the hull for a ground?

Anyway, good pic of the intake. It lets me see the fuel rail, regulator, and several of the sensors.

[85lebaront2]

Jim - You ran another screw into the hull for a ground?

Anyway, good pic of the intake. It lets me see the fuel rail, regulator, and several of the sensors.

Gary, for reference, gray sensor is coolant for EFI, white is air charge for EFI. Single stud is coolant for gauge.

[Gary Lewis]

Gary, for reference, gray sensor is coolant for EFI, white is air charge for EFI. Single stud is coolant for gauge.

Ok, but I need to start pulling all of this info together some place as I'm getting overload.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Jim - You ran another screw into the hull for a ground?

Anyway, good pic of the intake. It lets me see the fuel rail, regulator, and several of the sensors.

There is no earth on a boat, and if I start talking cathode & anode people think I'm referring to a chunk of zinc.

I told this guy two months ago that I should just tear it all out and start over.

My God some of this wiring is screwed up.

There was a wire nut on a cluster of nine wires behind the dash.

It was so full of green and white corrosion it cracked the nut.

Cutting one wire back, it is still black inside three feet away where it runs through one of the deck frames.

Yes, *this* is 'ground'......

 

[Gary Lewis]

There is no earth on a boat, and if I start talking cathode & anode people think I'm referring to a chunk of zinc.

I told this guy two months ago that I should just tear it all out and start over.

My God some of this wiring is screwed up.

There was a wire nut on a cluster of nine wires behind the dash.

It was so full of green and white corrosion it cracked the nut.

Cutting one wire back, it is still black inside three feet away where it runs through one of the deck frames.

Yes, *this* is 'ground'......

And people wonder why I solder and use adhesive-lined heat shrink. I have a deal with my trailer manufacturer - when he gets to that point I’ll come over with my soldering gun and heat shrink and make the connections.