scbill Posted June 7, 2022 Share Posted June 7, 2022 Glad that the forum is working for you. As for the connection, it is the Stator connection on the alternator. And it is about 7v when the engine is running, not when the key is on. Gary, Best to check with volt meter engine running/off. I have the choke set full open til I can do the proper connection. Also fuel pump pressure is supposed to be 5/7 psi, correct? Thanks Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 7, 2022 Author Share Posted June 7, 2022 Gary, Best to check with volt meter engine running/off. I have the choke set full open til I can do the proper connection. Also fuel pump pressure is supposed to be 5/7 psi, correct? Thanks Bill You don't really need to check. The stator connection gives the same voltage regardless of whether you have a 1G, 2G, or 3G alternator. You can see the choke heater in the bottom center of the schematic below. And 5 psi is adequate. Most carbs are happy with 5 to 7, but Edelbrocks or Carters don't really like more than 6, so I usually set my regulator to about 5 and I've never run out of fuel due to low pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted June 7, 2022 Share Posted June 7, 2022 Glad you got them working, Larry. And I hope you are feeling better. Did you have the master off? The push rod to it is adjustable. No, but all of that was adjusted when I swapped it and the booster when I first bought the truck. I'm pretty sure I'm engaging the master... since I am hitting a firm point, that's how I figured it wasn't a leak. Whenever I've had leaks (or air in the system), it seems there's not as defined of a stop point? Next time I'm out I'll eheck the fluid to make sure I'm not leaked out... that'd be embarassing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 7, 2022 Author Share Posted June 7, 2022 No, but all of that was adjusted when I swapped it and the booster when I first bought the truck. I'm pretty sure I'm engaging the master... since I am hitting a firm point, that's how I figured it wasn't a leak. Whenever I've had leaks (or air in the system), it seems there's not as defined of a stop point? Next time I'm out I'll eheck the fluid to make sure I'm not leaked out... that'd be embarassing! The shop manual shows how to test the booster by pumping the brakes several times with the engine off the drain the vacuum reservoir. Then stand on the brake and it should be hard. But when you start the truck the pedal should go down some as the booster helps you. So if you do that and the brakes aren't hard with the engine off you'll know you have a problem that doesn't include the booster. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salans7 Posted June 7, 2022 Share Posted June 7, 2022 Do I need to do that to make my 460 high performance? Seriously though, that should fix the problem and prevent issues in the future. Maybe? I can't say it made it any lighter, just less likely to break next time I have to remove it should I ever have to remove it. That's the high performance I was looking for. haha. Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted June 7, 2022 Share Posted June 7, 2022 No, but all of that was adjusted when I swapped it and the booster when I first bought the truck. I'm pretty sure I'm engaging the master... since I am hitting a firm point, that's how I figured it wasn't a leak. Whenever I've had leaks (or air in the system), it seems there's not as defined of a stop point? Next time I'm out I'll eheck the fluid to make sure I'm not leaked out... that'd be embarassing! Recheck the rear drum shoe adjustments. If the shoes were new and you installed them and you may have adjusted them did you press the pedal after you adjusted to center the shoes and check adjustments. Also after driving a bit the high spots on the shoes would wear down and add play to the shoe /. drum contact. Also what Gary is saying the rod out of the booster that pushes the master may not be adjusted right. If there is more gap between the rod and the master plunger you will feel this as free play in the pedal. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted June 8, 2022 Share Posted June 8, 2022 No, but all of that was adjusted when I swapped it and the booster when I first bought the truck. I'm pretty sure I'm engaging the master... since I am hitting a firm point, that's how I figured it wasn't a leak. Whenever I've had leaks (or air in the system), it seems there's not as defined of a stop point? Next time I'm out I'll eheck the fluid to make sure I'm not leaked out... that'd be embarassing! Recheck the rear drum shoe adjustments. If the shoes were new and you installed them and you may have adjusted them did you press the pedal after you adjusted to center the shoes and check adjustments. Also after driving a bit the high spots on the shoes would wear down and add play to the shoe /. drum contact. Also what Gary is saying the rod out of the booster that pushes the master may not be adjusted right. If there is more gap between the rod and the master plunger you will feel this as free play in the pedal. Dave ---- The shoes were slightly dragging on the drums and I could hear light contact when spinning them. The drums (along with the shoes, shoe hardware, self-adjuster hardware, and wheel cylinder) are somewhat recent so there wasn't much of a rust ridge to speak of. I didn't take the shoes off or any of the drum hardware apart... all I did was chop the old cables off about 4-6" away from the backplate (so I could easily rotate the end to pry shut the retainer tabs), removed the housing, removed the cable spring, and carefully fished out the inner wire from the arm's notches. Installation was mostly the reverse of removal (minus the cut cables and tab prying part). --- Did some inspection and testing tonight... For one, the rear side of the master cylinder is overflowing and the front is lowish: I then saw what might have been dampness at the brake booster... but upon removing the master cylinder, no external leak (such a leak was why I replaced the MC and BB when I first bought the truck): It looks wet but I didn't find anything other than the silicone paste I applied when I originally assembled this. After reassembly, I did some testing... which the video of which didn't turn out. I'm not sensing a click or a thud like the booster adjustment is off... and the brake pedal does drop a bit under pressure when the engine is started. It may not be a true issue... maybe my expectations of pedal feel and (to a far lesser degree) brake performance is too high for a stock system... or my perception is off. Back to the master cylinder levels: I would expect a difference in levels, as the front self-adjustment (the square cut seals in the caliper pistons) "consumes" fluid while the rear self-adjustment does not... but not to the point where the master cylinder puked a bit from the rear reservoir when I popped the cover... could a bad master cylinder or proportioning valve do that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 8, 2022 Author Share Posted June 8, 2022 The shoes were slightly dragging on the drums and I could hear light contact when spinning them. The drums (along with the shoes, shoe hardware, self-adjuster hardware, and wheel cylinder) are somewhat recent so there wasn't much of a rust ridge to speak of. I didn't take the shoes off or any of the drum hardware apart... all I did was chop the old cables off about 4-6" away from the backplate (so I could easily rotate the end to pry shut the retainer tabs), removed the housing, removed the cable spring, and carefully fished out the inner wire from the arm's notches. Installation was mostly the reverse of removal (minus the cut cables and tab prying part). --- Did some inspection and testing tonight... For one, the rear side of the master cylinder is overflowing and the front is lowish: I then saw what might have been dampness at the brake booster... but upon removing the master cylinder, no external leak (such a leak was why I replaced the MC and BB when I first bought the truck): It looks wet but I didn't find anything other than the silicone paste I applied when I originally assembled this. After reassembly, I did some testing... which the video of which didn't turn out. I'm not sensing a click or a thud like the booster adjustment is off... and the brake pedal does drop a bit under pressure when the engine is started. It may not be a true issue... maybe my expectations of pedal feel and (to a far lesser degree) brake performance is too high for a stock system... or my perception is off. Back to the master cylinder levels: I would expect a difference in levels, as the front self-adjustment (the square cut seals in the caliper pistons) "consumes" fluid while the rear self-adjustment does not... but not to the point where the master cylinder puked a bit from the rear reservoir when I popped the cover... could a bad master cylinder or proportioning valve do that? If you adjusted the rear brakes after filling the master then that could account for the master overflowing. When you adjust the shoes out the pistons come in, displacing fluid back into the master. So maybe there isn't a problem? With the pedal going down a bit when you start the engine is sounds like at least the booster is working. And save for the spill from removing the cover everything looks dry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted June 8, 2022 Share Posted June 8, 2022 If you adjusted the rear brakes after filling the master then that could account for the master overflowing. When you adjust the shoes out the pistons come in, displacing fluid back into the master. So maybe there isn't a problem? With the pedal going down a bit when you start the engine is sounds like at least the booster is working. And save for the spill from removing the cover everything looks dry. I didn't adjust anything... so I doubt that's it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted June 8, 2022 Share Posted June 8, 2022 I didn't adjust anything... so I doubt that's it. From what I'm reading, if it's leaking between chambers like that, that's a bad piston or internal seal in the master cylinder... which sucks because it was replaced with a NEW unit nearly three years ago. Who makes decent master cylinders these days? The one I have now is an AC Delco (what I could get on RA at the time)... as is the booster (AC Delco reman, also what I could get, wasn't happy that nothing was painted hence why both are covered in rust) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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