FuzzFace2 Posted June 5, 2022 Share Posted June 5, 2022 I know this requires a lathe, but so does the other stuff we've talked about. I'd cut the piece as shown and drill/tap it 9/16-12 and run a bolt in with Loctite. But you'd have to make sure you threaded the hole the whole way and didn't leave a place w/o the bolt or there'd be a lot of stress right there. But looking at the original break, it looks like the land wasn't into the block so the threads were taking the bending force instead of the land and hex. I'm assuming the block has a recess that the land goes into and the hex bottoms against the block. Right? https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n119692/300_Z-Bar_Pivot.jpg You are right the pivot did not seat so I found out when I threaded it in the block unlike the NOS one. See if I got you right. Cut flat at the red line then drill & tap as far as I could into the pivot for a 9/16-12 thread. Then thread in a bolt and cut the head off so I am left with threads that would go into the block and the flat part of the nut would sit against the block so the threads are not taking the full load. BTW I found the NOS pivot . Dave ---- Good new, bad news & badder news. Good news: I found the NOS part and got measurements from it. 3" long my fixed one is 3.25" long, too long but I had nothing to go by when I fixed it. Bad news: I figured I would use the fixed one so I could use the NOS to have others made off of. I think I saw why it broke, the threads were either too long and bottomed out or the weld would not let it seat on the nut part of the pivot like the base on the NOS one. Badder news: In trying to get the fixed one to sit on a flat base I ground down the weld and was using a die to thread it down a little more and the welded threads that my son said was better than mine failed also leaving the threaded part in the die. So I had to use the NOS part on the truck and will try and fix the fixed one again and see if i can have someone make a few if not to much $$$. Also when I pulled the linkage Ford uses thin plastic bushing between the rod ends that go thru the firewall. They were new when the truck was put on the road little over 2 years ago, they fell apart when I took the linkage apart. So I had to hit the hardware store for something better but they did not have anything that would fit either the rod or the hole it went thru so I had to make them. The good is they are thicker and little tougher so I hope last longer and I got extras and it is not to bad now that I know what has to be done to make them work. I also looked for the new / broken mirror head, glass broke when wife backed over the box from LMC, I must have thrown it out SO the truck now moved so if I need to use it I can. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted June 5, 2022 Share Posted June 5, 2022 It is unfortunate that you don't have the 1/2-13 thread. 5/8 shoulder bolts come with that thread and seem about ideal for cobbling together a replacement. https://www.mcmaster.com/shoulder-bolts/alloy-steel-shoulder-screws-9/shoulder-diameter~5-8/ Would you consider a Time-sert in your bellhousing? Because one of these seems the easy way out. https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n119697/s-l500.jpg What holds the plastic spherical bushing on the end? Is there a snap ring in that shallow groove? Yes there is a small clip to keep the bushing from coming off the open ends and there is a flange on the thread end to keep it from going to far that way. I have given a time-sert a thought if I knew if I could get a pivot with 1/2" threads of the right size other wise. But I do like what Gary said of drilling & tapping for a 9/16 - 12 bolt and Loctite it in the pivot part. We know that welding the bolt threads from a headless bolt dose not work. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted June 6, 2022 Share Posted June 6, 2022 Should be a very interesting addition, Bill. For reference the center console from a later model Bronco that I have in Big Blue is about 20" front/rear and I have the highest part 16" off the floor. That makes it a very nice height to serve as an arm rest. I have been trying to get something I could test the refrigeration system in the Flex console with. Dug out an old Black & Decker jump box/air compressor combo I have had for years. Cleaned it off, battery showed 1/2 charge on the lights when the test button was pushed in, compressor ran so I decided to see if it would charge up. It did and today I connected it to the compressor wiring and tried it, condenser fan (a computer fan) ran and after a bit I started hearing the normal sounds a small refrigerator's piping makes. I checked the air discharge from the fan and was reading 85-87° F. I let it run for a while and opened the well, it was nicely cold in there. The unit is fused at 15amps so I will do what the Flex does, use an ignition on relay for power. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 6, 2022 Author Share Posted June 6, 2022 I have been trying to get something I could test the refrigeration system in the Flex console with. Dug out an old Black & Decker jump box/air compressor combo I have had for years. Cleaned it off, battery showed 1/2 charge on the lights when the test button was pushed in, compressor ran so I decided to see if it would charge up. It did and today I connected it to the compressor wiring and tried it, condenser fan (a computer fan) ran and after a bit I started hearing the normal sounds a small refrigerator's piping makes. I checked the air discharge from the fan and was reading 85-87° F. I let it run for a while and opened the well, it was nicely cold in there. The unit is fused at 15amps so I will do what the Flex does, use an ignition on relay for power. Dave - Yes, my idea was to cut it, drill it, and tap it. But don't drill/tap too deep and you don't want to get into thin metal where it tapers down towards the end. And you want the hole square to the flange so it'll seat flat against the block. Bill - That's cool! Seriously, that's going to make a neat addition to Darth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salans7 Posted June 6, 2022 Share Posted June 6, 2022 Dave - Yes, my idea was to cut it, drill it, and tap it. But don't drill/tap too deep and you don't want to get into thin metal where it tapers down towards the end. And you want the hole square to the flange so it'll seat flat against the block. Bill - That's cool! Seriously, that's going to make a neat addition to Darth. This weekend I drilled out the broken timing pointer bolt from my timing cover. It was the small bolt, so definitely wasn't fun. I ended up just taking the hole out a couple of sizes so I could tap it for a slightly larger bolt. That seemed to be what the high performance 460 guys were all doing, so figured it won't hurt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 6, 2022 Author Share Posted June 6, 2022 This weekend I drilled out the broken timing pointer bolt from my timing cover. It was the small bolt, so definitely wasn't fun. I ended up just taking the hole out a couple of sizes so I could tap it for a slightly larger bolt. That seemed to be what the high performance 460 guys were all doing, so figured it won't hurt. Do I need to do that to make my 460 high performance? Seriously though, that should fix the problem and prevent issues in the future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted June 6, 2022 Share Posted June 6, 2022 Today I was supposed to finish a parking brake cable replacement (both rear cables, left side rusted and seized)... but my coworker gave me and at least one other coworker COVID! (Just flu symptoms... I was vaxxed but not boosted) Worst part is I had the rear wheels off on jackstands... on asphalt, no plywood. That'll be fun to dig out when I'm feeling better enough to work on it. Got my parking brake work done yesterday... probably should have waited until I was more recovered, but it did indeed rain and storm today. Brakes still feel a bit mushy for the first bit of travel (didn't find any self adjuster issues) but my parking brakes are working at least. It's not to the floor... and it may just be me. Doesn't feel like I have air in the lines or a leak. More like something is moving further then necessary to engage the disc/drum? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 7, 2022 Author Share Posted June 7, 2022 Got my parking brake work done yesterday... probably should have waited until I was more recovered, but it did indeed rain and storm today. Brakes still feel a bit mushy for the first bit of travel (didn't find any self adjuster issues) but my parking brakes are working at least. It's not to the floor... and it may just be me. Doesn't feel like I have air in the lines or a leak. More like something is moving further then necessary to engage the disc/drum? Glad you got them working, Larry. And I hope you are feeling better. Did you have the master off? The push rod to it is adjustable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scbill Posted June 7, 2022 Share Posted June 7, 2022 Glad you got them working, Larry. And I hope you are feeling better. Did you have the master off? The push rod to it is adjustable. >>>For Mark<<< re carb base swap on 4.9 Got the swap done yesterday, all is well...thanks for the info. One question about where the wire from the choke heater. I have read that there is a 6v dc connection on the alternator that is live when ignition is on is where it connects. Anyone with info on this connection, please. Love this forum, thanks Gary, and all that contribute ..Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 7, 2022 Author Share Posted June 7, 2022 >>>For Mark As for the connection, it is the Stator connection on the alternator. And it is about 7v when the engine is running, not when the key is on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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