FuzzFace2 Posted June 5, 2022 Share Posted June 5, 2022 "In a safe place" is the last thing you think before a spare is truly lost. Of course as soon as you buy another, that part will fall off a shelf and knock you on the head! Oh how true that is Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 5, 2022 Author Share Posted June 5, 2022 I think the one you need is '77 & on. D7TZ 7A535 -A. (but there must be some difference from the E0TZ #?) Edit: if you know yours has a 9/16 thread it might be worth a shot to get the one from slicktruckparts and see if it fits? All those basic dimensions are listed. 3D printing a lathe part is pointless. I was looking at the other two pivots with big bosses thinking one was Windsor and the other was 1-6. But in reality the other is for the big block bell pattern found on 335 & 385 series engines. Sorry for my mistake..... The D7TZ is 1/2 - 13 thread the C5TZ is 9/16 - 12 thread and what I need as the block thread is 9/16. The bushing ends all look the same of the early one I just dont know what mine is. As for the 3D / machine I did not mean to machine a 3D one, do 1 or the other LOL Its what ever I could find around here that could make the part if I had a good one for measurements. Now where would I put a spare part I would not loose when I need it Dave ---- Larry - I hope Jenn doesn't get it and that you get over it very quickly. Dave/Jim - I'm thinking that a piece of 3/4" rod could be turned down to 5/8" on one end for the Z-bar and turned down and threaded on the other end to 9/16-12. And if you didn't have a way to put flats on it then put it on using vise grips, or tack weld strap on it. Or better yet - thread the outside and put a nut on it with a tack weld. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted June 5, 2022 Share Posted June 5, 2022 Larry - I hope Jenn doesn't get it and that you get over it very quickly. Dave/Jim - I'm thinking that a piece of 3/4" rod could be turned down to 5/8" on one end for the Z-bar and turned down and threaded on the other end to 9/16-12. And if you didn't have a way to put flats on it then put it on using vise grips, or tack weld strap on it. Or better yet - thread the outside and put a nut on it with a tack weld. It sounds so easy to get rod and just turn it down If only I had a way to do that I got to stop posting and get out to the garage to find this good part Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted June 5, 2022 Share Posted June 5, 2022 Larry - I hope Jenn doesn't get it and that you get over it very quickly. Dave/Jim - I'm thinking that a piece of 3/4" rod could be turned down to 5/8" on one end for the Z-bar and turned down and threaded on the other end to 9/16-12. And if you didn't have a way to put flats on it then put it on using vise grips, or tack weld strap on it. Or better yet - thread the outside and put a nut on it with a tack weld. If you've got to buy a piece of stock why not just get the 1" hex that the part description calls for? I know it's more time and chips, but it's true to OEM and really shouldn't be a big deal if you're turning to a carriage stop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 5, 2022 Author Share Posted June 5, 2022 If you've got to buy a piece of stock why not just get the 1" hex that the part description calls for? I know it's more time and chips, but it's true to OEM and really shouldn't be a big deal if you're turning to a carriage stop. Very true, Jim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted June 5, 2022 Share Posted June 5, 2022 Very true, Jim. Too bad a 9/16-12 nut is 15/16 wrench size.... It appears you need a good sized shoulder at the pivot boss anyhow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted June 5, 2022 Share Posted June 5, 2022 Too bad a 9/16-12 nut is 15/16 wrench size.... http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/thinking-26_orig.jpg It appears you need a good sized shoulder at the pivot boss anyhow. This what the part looked like when I first got the truck and first fix. Here is what the second fix looked like when it broke the first time. I cut the head off a 9/16 bolt for the threads and welded it to the bushing side. When that broke I took that other bolt, cut the head off but this time I drilled down the center of the threads & the bushing and drove in a roll pin then welded it. That is what broke this time and son said the welds were junk and he could do better. Being tired, hot and pissed from not finding the new part I said "if you think you can do better have at it". Think he said he was able to do something with the roll pin like I did but?......... That is when I walked away and have not returned LOL Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 5, 2022 Author Share Posted June 5, 2022 Too bad a 9/16-12 nut is 15/16 wrench size.... http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/thinking-26_orig.jpg It appears you need a good sized shoulder at the pivot boss anyhow. This what the part looked like when I first got the truck and first fix. Here is what the second fix looked like when it broke the first time. I cut the head off a 9/16 bolt for the threads and welded it to the bushing side. When that broke I took that other bolt, cut the head off but this time I drilled down the center of the threads & the bushing and drove in a roll pin then welded it. That is what broke this time and son said the welds were junk and he could do better. Being tired, hot and pissed from not finding the new part I said "if you think you can do better have at it". Think he said he was able to do something with the roll pin like I did but?......... That is when I walked away and have not returned LOL Dave ---- I know this requires a lathe, but so does the other stuff we've talked about. I'd cut the piece as shown and drill/tap it 9/16-12 and run a bolt in with Loctite. But you'd have to make sure you threaded the hole the whole way and didn't leave a place w/o the bolt or there'd be a lot of stress right there. But looking at the original break, it looks like the land wasn't into the block so the threads were taking the bending force instead of the land and hex. I'm assuming the block has a recess that the land goes into and the hex bottoms against the block. Right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted June 5, 2022 Share Posted June 5, 2022 Too bad a 9/16-12 nut is 15/16 wrench size.... http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/thinking-26_orig.jpg It appears you need a good sized shoulder at the pivot boss anyhow. This what the part looked like when I first got the truck and first fix. Here is what the second fix looked like when it broke the first time. I cut the head off a 9/16 bolt for the threads and welded it to the bushing side. When that broke I took that other bolt, cut the head off but this time I drilled down the center of the threads & the bushing and drove in a roll pin then welded it. That is what broke this time and son said the welds were junk and he could do better. Being tired, hot and pissed from not finding the new part I said "if you think you can do better have at it". Think he said he was able to do something with the roll pin like I did but?......... That is when I walked away and have not returned LOL Dave ---- It is unfortunate that you don't have the 1/2-13 thread. 5/8 shoulder bolts come with that thread and seem about ideal for cobbling together a replacement. https://www.mcmaster.com/shoulder-bolts/alloy-steel-shoulder-screws-9/shoulder-diameter~5-8/ Would you consider a Time-sert in your bellhousing? Because one of these seems the easy way out. What holds the plastic spherical bushing on the end? Is there a snap ring in that shallow groove? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted June 5, 2022 Share Posted June 5, 2022 I know this requires a lathe, but so does the other stuff we've talked about. I'd cut the piece as shown and drill/tap it 9/16-12 and run a bolt in with Loctite. But you'd have to make sure you threaded the hole the whole way and didn't leave a place w/o the bolt or there'd be a lot of stress right there. But looking at the original break, it looks like the land wasn't into the block so the threads were taking the bending force instead of the land and hex. I'm assuming the block has a recess that the land goes into and the hex bottoms against the block. Right? https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n119692/300_Z-Bar_Pivot.jpg You are right the pivot did not seat so I found out when I threaded it in the block unlike the NOS one. See if I got you right. Cut flat at the red line then drill & tap as far as I could into the pivot for a 9/16-12 thread. Then thread in a bolt and cut the head off so I am left with threads that would go into the block and the flat part of the nut would sit against the block so the threads are not taking the full load. BTW I found the NOS pivot . Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts