WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?

[FuzzFace2]

What did I do to my truck today? Got its A/C fixed. They pulled a vacuum on it, found no leaks, so charged it up.

Now I can take it to the Fordification show in June over in MO. And, I'll take it next week when I go down to see what my neighbor has in the way of surplus pallet racks. I'll take the trailer as well, but Big Blue's getting used to it.

Had a long post almost done and the dog pulled plug on computer :-arrgh :'(

Before it got too hot, low to mid 90's today & tomorrow, I hit the garage at 6am.

I got the 2 wheel cly from Rock Auto yesterday so set out to replace them. Both were new when I rebuilt the rear drums but 1 was leaking and I had not even driven it!

The leaking side came apart easy but not so going back together. Bolted up and line tight put the pins in the cly and 1 side would not push in WTH!

Pulled it out to look at and it now the pin went in?? So back in it went and had to fight with the springs! Took me 45 min to swap the cly, the other side was like 10 min max.

I did a quick adjustment on them as I did not do that before and maybe why the low pedal ...... I hope!

Pulled out my Snap On vacuum bleeder and pulled fluid thru the rear as the front were done weeks ago. Pedal is still low with motor off so will get the wife to pump the brakes to bleed the old way.

If I still have issues will need to look at adjusting the push rods as the pedals, booster & master came from my parts truck so who knows?

I then worked on the fuel filler necks. What my FS came with I think was the FS part but was cut and spliced using exh pipe and rubber hose so I did not want to use it.

The front door & plastic box is FS as the mounting holes are different than the SS truck doors & plastic box. The filler neck I think was from the front tank of the parts truck along with the rubber hose and vent tube.

It went together easy with a little lube.

Then on to the rear filler neck & hose. My brother sent me a FS door, plastic box, straight neck,and part of the 90* rubber hose & vent tube just short of the tank. The FS hose would not reach the rear tank hole if Idid have it. I am using the SS rear tank, rubber hose & vent tube.

I could not use the SS neck that has a 90* as it hit the bed floor and was to short to bolt to the plastic box.

So I used the FS straight neck & part of the vent tube (right side of picture), the FS 90* rubber hose (center of picture) and the SS tank hose & vent tube (left side of picture)

Short copper pipe & clamps to join the vent tubes together.

You can just make out the clamps inside the exh pipe used to join the 2 outer hoses together.

Now if you look at the neck the vent tube is lower than the top of the rubber hose so how do you get the vent into it's holder in the neck? I used a coat hanger from the outside of the neck down into the vent of the neck and into the vent tube after the outer rubber hose was put into place. I hope the vent went into the neck holder.

It's a done deal now.

I don't have any pictures of this next part.

I also got FS running boards w/brackets and fender braces but 1 of the boards got bent pretty good from a fork lift from the looks.

I wanted the nuts & bolts and fender braces for my truck, mine was a mix of hard ware and missing the braces.

Getting the hardware off was a job as the carriage bolts turned in the holes use MAP gas to burn the fiber glass out so I get to the bolt heads with vice grips and got them out. I need to clean them up before I can use them.

Now that job turned into straightening the running board some to get to the hard ware that ran into straightening the whole board. Its a vary good spare but still going to use the ones I have.

By that time it was 2pm and 92*+ in the garage so I called it a day!

Dave ----

[Gary Lewis]

Had a long post almost done and the dog pulled plug on computer :-arrgh :'(

Before it got too hot, low to mid 90's today & tomorrow, I hit the garage at 6am.

I got the 2 wheel cly from Rock Auto yesterday so set out to replace them. Both were new when I rebuilt the rear drums but 1 was leaking and I had not even driven it!

The leaking side came apart easy but not so going back together. Bolted up and line tight put the pins in the cly and 1 side would not push in WTH!

Pulled it out to look at and it now the pin went in?? So back in it went and had to fight with the springs! Took me 45 min to swap the cly, the other side was like 10 min max.

I did a quick adjustment on them as I did not do that before and maybe why the low pedal ...... I hope!

Pulled out my Snap On vacuum bleeder and pulled fluid thru the rear as the front were done weeks ago. Pedal is still low with motor off so will get the wife to pump the brakes to bleed the old way.

If I still have issues will need to look at adjusting the push rods as the pedals, booster & master came from my parts truck so who knows?

I then worked on the fuel filler necks. What my FS came with I think was the FS part but was cut and spliced using exh pipe and rubber hose so I did not want to use it.

The front door & plastic box is FS as the mounting holes are different than the SS truck doors & plastic box. The filler neck I think was from the front tank of the parts truck along with the rubber hose and vent tube.

It went together easy with a little lube.

Then on to the rear filler neck & hose. My brother sent me a FS door, plastic box, straight neck,and part of the 90* rubber hose & vent tube just short of the tank. The FS hose would not reach the rear tank hole if Idid have it. I am using the SS rear tank, rubber hose & vent tube.

I could not use the SS neck that has a 90* as it hit the bed floor and was to short to bolt to the plastic box.

So I used the FS straight neck & part of the vent tube (right side of picture), the FS 90* rubber hose (center of picture) and the SS tank hose & vent tube (left side of picture)

Short copper pipe & clamps to join the vent tubes together.

You can just make out the clamps inside the exh pipe used to join the 2 outer hoses together.

Now if you look at the neck the vent tube is lower than the top of the rubber hose so how do you get the vent into it's holder in the neck? I used a coat hanger from the outside of the neck down into the vent of the neck and into the vent tube after the outer rubber hose was put into place. I hope the vent went into the neck holder.

It's a done deal now.

I don't have any pictures of this next part.

I also got FS running boards w/brackets and fender braces but 1 of the boards got bent pretty good from a fork lift from the looks.

I wanted the nuts & bolts and fender braces for my truck, mine was a mix of hard ware and missing the braces.

Getting the hardware off was a job as the carriage bolts turned in the holes use MAP gas to burn the fiber glass out so I get to the bolt heads with vice grips and got them out. I need to clean them up before I can use them.

Now that job turned into straightening the running board some to get to the hard ware that ran into straightening the whole board. Its a vary good spare but still going to use the ones I have.

By that time it was 2pm and 92*+ in the garage so I called it a day!

Dave ----

Wow, Dave. I understood every word, but got lost when you strung them together.

Seriously though, you had quite the day. But, it looks like you made good progress and have the filler pipes figured out. And, I'll hope with you that the vent is in the right place as filling the tank with a bad vent is a pain.

Anyway, well done!

[FuzzFace2]

Wow, Dave. I understood every word, but got lost when you strung them together.

Seriously though, you had quite the day. But, it looks like you made good progress and have the filler pipes figured out. And, I'll hope with you that the vent is in the right place as filling the tank with a bad vent is a pain.

Anyway, well done!

I blame the dog pulling the plug ........ yea that's it the dog!

My key board space bar does not work all the time either so have to go back and fix that when typing.

I will see if I can go clean it up some.

Yes good progress.

I did not know of any other way to get that vent in the neck.

Maybe when I pull the bed off for painting I can remove that filler and hose from tank and start at the neck end fitting the vent first then the hose and work the tank end as I think the vent / hose & tank is better to work with, will have to see.

When I remove the bed I was just going to unbolt the plastic boxes from the fenders and let them hang so I did not have to deal with them. Should not be too hard to check that rear hose / vent & neck.

Dave ----

[Gary Lewis]

Wow, Dave. I understood every word, but got lost when you strung them together.

Seriously though, you had quite the day. But, it looks like you made good progress and have the filler pipes figured out. And, I'll hope with you that the vent is in the right place as filling the tank with a bad vent is a pain.

Anyway, well done!

I blame the dog pulling the plug ........ yea that's it the dog!

My key board space bar does not work all the time either so have to go back and fix that when typing.

I will see if I can go clean it up some.

Yes good progress.

I did not know of any other way to get that vent in the neck.

Maybe when I pull the bed off for painting I can remove that filler and hose from tank and start at the neck end fitting the vent first then the hose and work the tank end as I think the vent / hose & tank is better to work with, will have to see.

When I remove the bed I was just going to unbolt the plastic boxes from the fenders and let them hang so I did not have to deal with them. Should not be too hard to check that rear hose / vent & neck.

Dave ----

I've heard "The dog ate my homework", but that's a new one on me.

Anyway, I think you have a good plan - work it with the bed off. That should make it pretty easy.

[FuzzFace2]

I've heard "The dog ate my homework", but that's a new one on me.

Anyway, I think you have a good plan - work it with the bed off. That should make it pretty easy.

LOL modern times we do home work on PC's LOL

Laptop batt needs to be replaced so only last a few min. on batt and then it turns off with no warning!

The foster we have a Jack Russell Terrier mix was running all over the place like they do and knocked the plug out of the wall.

I was at the part of the running board when the laptop shut down.

I was a little upset to say the least.

Its all good now.

Have to go out and drop the mower deck and hook up the garden plow on the tractor, wife wants to plant today before it gets too hot.

Dave ----

[Rembrant]

Installed new core support mount brackets for the old '84 today. Removing those rivets is UNfun!

The old one was...a bit rotted out...but I had painted it black when I was spraying the frame around it. In case it looks odd...rusted out AND black;).

Start/charge wiring is all fixed up...as much as it is getting fixed up. New starter solenoid, new voltage reg, and damaged and corroded wires repaired, and rotten/broken plug replaced/bypassed.

 

[1986F150Six]

Installed new core support mount brackets for the old '84 today. Removing those rivets is UNfun!

The old one was...a bit rotted out...but I had painted it black when I was spraying the frame around it. In case it looks odd...rusted out AND black;).

Start/charge wiring is all fixed up...as much as it is getting fixed up. New starter solenoid, new voltage reg, and damaged and corroded wires repaired, and rotten/broken plug replaced/bypassed.

Sweet!

[BeagleRock]

Installed carb from national carburetors and she screams like a Banshee, the carb that is. This carb is doing the exact opposite of the one I got from Gary. His took off fine and then would bog down and almost die until you let off the gas and gradually got back on it. This one almost die's on initial acceleration and then goes really well.

I probably have a vacuum leak,when I spray carb cleaner down around the front of the adapter plate and the old pcv hose coming off of the intake itself she slows down a little. It's very hot in Oklahoma all of a sudden I'm gonna bite the bullet and take it to a mechanic if I can find one older than me, otherwise they'll just look at it and say what's that thing! Oh yeah 1983 F-150 5.8l W Automatic c6 tranny

P.S. the high pitch noise comes from the top of the carb,at least that's what my ears to tell me. Have a great day!

[85lebaront2]

Installed carb from national carburetors and she screams like a Banshee, the carb that is. This carb is doing the exact opposite of the one I got from Gary. His took off fine and then would bog down and almost die until you let off the gas and gradually got back on it. This one almost die's on initial acceleration and then goes really well.

I probably have a vacuum leak,when I spray carb cleaner down around the front of the adapter plate and the old pcv hose coming off of the intake itself she slows down a little. It's very hot in Oklahoma all of a sudden I'm gonna bite the bullet and take it to a mechanic if I can find one older than me, otherwise they'll just look at it and say what's that thing! Oh yeah 1983 F-150 5.8l W Automatic c6 tranny

P.S. the high pitch noise comes from the top of the carb,at least that's what my ears to tell me. Have a great day!

High pitched whine is usually caused by a gasket leaking. This can be due to a warped carburetor body, an improperly cleaned gasket surface, a warped PCV plate under the carb. Before you carry it somewhere, get some carburetor cleaner and spray it on the gasket areas. When you hit the right spot, the whine should at least change and the idle may smooth out for a bit as the cleaner is drawn in.

Due to the large bolt pattern Ford uses the slightest lack of flatness will result in a leak since the carb mounting gasket and the EGR/PCV plate to intake can be quite thin.

[Gary Lewis]

High pitched whine is usually caused by a gasket leaking. This can be due to a warped carburetor body, an improperly cleaned gasket surface, a warped PCV plate under the carb. Before you carry it somewhere, get some carburetor cleaner and spray it on the gasket areas. When you hit the right spot, the whine should at least change and the idle may smooth out for a bit as the cleaner is drawn in.

Due to the large bolt pattern Ford uses the slightest lack of flatness will result in a leak since the carb mounting gasket and the EGR/PCV plate to intake can be quite thin.

The plate under the carb can easily have a vacuum leak, and that's the first place I'd check. Make sure that you have the right gaskets as that intake should be set up for EGR and not all gaskets cover the holes correctly.