SCFlareside Posted February 19, 2020 Author Share Posted February 19, 2020 Rembrant, laughed out loud because literally last night I was looking at pics of your new wood floor earlier in the thread and was like "oooh, ahhh". I figure that I can always go new but can't go old, so I'll give patina a chance... Jim again a huge thanks on the recommendation, appreciate your good knowledge on this. Started looking up Catalyzed Lacquer, if I can't find it locally I'll order it straight away. When you say "dusting coats" I assume really really light coats with whatever applicator (rag etc) so it just gets on the surface... no touching or steel wool between coats, just a few very light coats? Then Matte lacquer on top. How many coats would you aim for? This leaves the problem of the spot that I already applied BLO to. I'm thinking that I'll need to sand that down to blend it back into the old patina. One more question: Besides cleaning the bed well with soap and water, what else would you do? Would you lightly scuff it with the steel wool for instance or just leave untouched? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted February 19, 2020 Share Posted February 19, 2020 One more question: Besides cleaning the bed well with soap and water, what else would you do? Would you lightly scuff it with the steel wool for instance or just leave untouched? Man am I glad I don't have to worry about the wood in my flare side bed Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCFlareside Posted February 19, 2020 Author Share Posted February 19, 2020 Man am I glad I don't have to worry about the wood in my flare side bed Dave ---- LOL!! Nice Dave, happy for you - Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted February 19, 2020 Share Posted February 19, 2020 Man am I glad I don't have to worry about the wood in my flare side bed Dave ---- Dave, You have the upside on this one for sure. As much as I like the wood for showcase purposes, I sure do like the idea of your bed floor for utility purposes. After all the work I've done to mine...I've basically lost the ability to use it as a truck. I honestly don't mind wrecking the plywood...it's not expensive...but the freshly painted bed and all new steel is what bothers me (the risk of scratching/scuffing/denting it). I'm watching Ken's progress here very closely. Can't wait to see what he does and how it turns out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 20, 2020 Share Posted February 20, 2020 Man am I glad I don't have to worry about the wood in my flare side bed Dave ---- Dave, your family was (is?) In the auto body trade. I'm sure you understand the process to seal silicone contamination. This is much,if not exactly, the same. Spray light 'dust' coats over it, until you can thoroughly seal it in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCFlareside Posted February 20, 2020 Author Share Posted February 20, 2020 Dave, your family was (is?) In the auto body trade. I'm sure you understand the process to seal silicone contamination. This is much,if not exactly, the same. Spray light 'dust' coats over it, until you can thoroughly seal it in. Ah wait! You're talking about that initial coat being a spray, not applied from a can! Got it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 21, 2020 Share Posted February 21, 2020 Ah wait! You're talking about that initial coat being a spray, not applied from a can! Got it... Right. With silicone, you can't get a 'wet' surface because the oil will break surface tension creating fish eyes and float to the top of the finish you've just applied. You can continue this cycle (seemingly) forever. So after doing our best to dilute and dry off the silicone oil, we try to bridge over it before putting the 'real' finish on. In your case, you are trying not to flood the wood cells in order to preserve that weathered look. This is really the opposite of an oil finish which you want to soak into the wood in order to give 'depth' to the surface. At any rate you already have that one spot oiled so you may as well do the whole bed like that. Because you can't "undo" what has already soaked in. Thinning the BLO might allow it to penetrate deeper, but if you thin it enough there will only be a very little bit left once the carrier solvent evaporates. Once you have an even effect (the graduated look you want) then give the oil time to cure before sealing it as I may have suggested above. Drying oils polymerize because of oxygen in the air. If you deprive them of this two things happen. 1) you've just put your finish on top of an oily surface that is shrinking as it crosslinking, leading to finish crunching up in ridges lhat look like a magnified finger print. 2) the oils affinity for oxygen will have it trying to open pores in the finish. Horrid Fate has a purple HVLP gun on sale for under $10. If you don't have a compressor you can get aerosol cans of sealers and 2k clear at most any auto body supply store. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted February 21, 2020 Share Posted February 21, 2020 Man am I glad I don't have to worry about the wood in my flare side bed Dave ---- Dave, You have the upside on this one for sure. As much as I like the wood for showcase purposes, I sure do like the idea of your bed floor for utility purposes. After all the work I've done to mine...I've basically lost the ability to use it as a truck. I honestly don't mind wrecking the plywood...it's not expensive...but the freshly painted bed and all new steel is what bothers me (the risk of scratching/scuffing/denting it). I'm watching Ken's progress here very closely. Can't wait to see what he does and how it turns out. I do still worry about scratching / denting the side panels & tail gate just not the floor LOL I know sooner or later they will get banged up but trying to make that a lot later than sooner so I am careful when using the bed. Today was the only day I did not take the truck to work this week. We had a snow storm come thru after I go home yesterday and with ice & snow on the roads did not want to risk driving it. Tomorrow is take the trash to the dump and will use the P/U as the roads are pretty clear now. Dave ----Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted February 21, 2020 Share Posted February 21, 2020 Dave, your family was (is?) In the auto body trade. I'm sure you understand the process to seal silicone contamination. This is much,if not exactly, the same. Spray light 'dust' coats over it, until you can thoroughly seal it in. Yes was in the body trade. Dealing with metal is a little easier than with wood. Metal you can wipe the panel down with a wax & grease remover, Prep-Sol is what I use. On wood the oil gets pulled into the pours and I don't know what can be used to pull it back out or even it could be? For paint if you think there may still be oil on the panels there is a product called Fish Eye Killer. It is clear but kind of thick like 20-50 motor oil. You add 1 drop to the cup when mixing before spraying. I don't know if that could be used with anything else but used it withal the different types of auto paint back in the day. BTW you cant have any tool oilers in a body shop. They are placed at the wall before the air hose. This tool oil coats the inside of the air hose so it cant be used for body work (air tools like sanders & grinders) as it stays in the hose so we just don't have tool oilers. What do we use you ask? Fish Eye Killer, a few drops in the air tool and hook it up and use it. When it comes out on the panel when using its not to big a deal as the Prep-Sol will clean it off. You also hinted when painting if you do get fish eyes and don't have the killer is to let the coat of paint set up pretty good and do dusting coats till the fish eyes are covered but this could take a while to do. Hope I answered the question Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 22, 2020 Share Posted February 22, 2020 Dave, your family was (is?) In the auto body trade. I'm sure you understand the process to seal silicone contamination. This is much,if not exactly, the same. Spray light 'dust' coats over it, until you can thoroughly seal it in. Yes was in the body trade. Dealing with metal is a little easier than with wood. Metal you can wipe the panel down with a wax & grease remover, Prep-Sol is what I use. On wood the oil gets pulled into the pours and I don't know what can be used to pull it back out or even it could be? For paint if you think there may still be oil on the panels there is a product called Fish Eye Killer. It is clear but kind of thick like 20-50 motor oil. You add 1 drop to the cup when mixing before spraying. I don't know if that could be used with anything else but used it withal the different types of auto paint back in the day. BTW you cant have any tool oilers in a body shop. They are placed at the wall before the air hose. This tool oil coats the inside of the air hose so it cant be used for body work (air tools like sanders & grinders) as it stays in the hose so we just don't have tool oilers. What do we use you ask? Fish Eye Killer, a few drops in the air tool and hook it up and use it. When it comes out on the panel when using its not to big a deal as the Prep-Sol will clean it off. You also hinted when painting if you do get fish eyes and don't have the killer is to let the coat of paint set up pretty good and do dusting coats till the fish eyes are covered but this could take a while to do. Hope I answered the question Dave ---- Dave, Fish eye killer is just emulsified silicone oil. Kinda if you can't beat em, join em. I wouldn't put that in any of my guns. You're right on if silicone gets into the pores of wood. I was just trying to make an analogy that would be understood by this audience. To preserve the silver/gray of the weathered bed, you can't saturate it with finish. Much like you can't put a wet coat on a contaminated surface. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts